Those foam cans are a mess. I'm trying to use them as little as possible. I've been schmeering latex (dap230 or something) caulk in the rim joist area with xeps. I say 'schmeer' 'cause you can't get you get the caulk gun on the bottom joint. I've been putting in several (4) blocks of 2" xps in each bay and caulking between each. I'm gonna link up with the wall foam for a continuous layer - that's the plan anyways. You go through a lot of caulk, plus it's taking forever. I'm committed now though and stubborn. You're supposed to use non-petroleum based products with the foam, but I found the polyurethane foam was real stiff, and with all the schmeering with the fingers, the latex is probably better for the skin too as well as fumes and cost. I don't know if the latex has petroleum, but it doesn't appear to be melting the foam. My plan is to leave the foaming til last, since you have to use the whole can at once.

I'm only 3 weeks into using Vista so I hate to give too many secrets out until I'm more sure of myself and what security I'm screwing up. But you can make a shortcut, right click and select properties & then follow the security tab to the differenct permissions. Take ownership and change away on the permissions. Eventually after two or three ways I can fairly much stop that you dont have permission to do this popup.... some programs you have to do it to the program folder also so the program can access and write within its own folder. My Toshiba laptop came with Vista and Quickbooks... maybe a trial, I havent tried it... it actually links to a web-addy. Here is a link that might be useful: (quickbooks - toshiba style)

shabruo first of all Rudd is the sister company to Rheem and is an often overlooked and underated brand. They make good HVAC and I like their HPs better than Lennox. I would not give up on Rudd simply because the dealer did not quote you correctly. these are my minimum specs for a new HP system. both outside and inside units should be replaced to have a properly matched system. 15 SEER, 12.5+ EER, 9 HSPF best matching VS air handler full BTUs in both cooling and heating for your rated size R-410a refrigerant(same as Puron) scroll compressor preferred electronic demand defrost preferred thermostat with "dehumidify on demand" feature staged backup heat strips new and correctly sized refrigerant lineset you want a thorough inspection of your ductwork system. size, overall condition, supply and return lines, insulation qualities, leak test, etc. any hot/cold spot issues in your home should be addressed. I would only use authorized dealers for the various brands that provide quotes. see mfg websites. I would look at Trane/AmStd,Rheem,Carrier/Bryant. I wouldn't do a thing until the dealers involved perform a load calc for correct sizing. If they refuse, show themm the door. I can't see the job from here but yes your pricing does seem on the high side. Of course installing ductwork in a retrofit where there is none usually is problematic. It is a mistake buying HVAC through a big box store. Depending on experience of dealer, zoning multilevel homes can be helpful with the overall comfort factor to the various parts of your home. IMO

Re: layout of kitchen, I like this plan without seating (since you don't want seating): Vs: this plan For or a couple reasons: 1) fridge is closer to living and dining room preventing traffic into the kitchen and easier to fetch things when eating and 2) a nice wall hood with beautiful backsplash is always a nice focal point from the living room vs a fridge and 3) cooktop is more protected and not in an aisle Mama Goose already addressed the concern I had re: bathroom visibility by moving the opening. Hope this helps