Here is from a page I found that may help you. I will include the link as it has a couple of pictures for you: Copying files to a flash drive on a PC: Open My Computer and see which drives are shown. Most computers, for example, have a hard disk such as a C: drive and a few removable storage devices such as a floppy drive, a CD-ROM drive, and perhaps a zip drive. Insert the flash drive into the USB port and watch to see where the USB flash drive appears. Most will appear as removable storage, but some will instead appear as hard drives. Note the name Windows is using to refer to the flash drive ("Removable Disk (G:)," for example). Open My Documents or the location from which you want to transfer files to the flash drive. Select the files or folders you want to save to the flash drive by left-clicking on them. To select more than one, hold down the CTRL key while you click and select all of the files you wish to save. Right-click on the file(s) or folder(s) you selected, then select Send to, then select the name you saw appearing in My Computer for the flash drive ("Removable Disk (G:)," for example). When the copying is finished, do not immediately remove the flash drive from the USB port. Instead, left-click on the Remove Hardware icon located in the System Tray. A window containing a list of the USB devices will appear. Left-click on the Safely Remove Mass Storage Device line that matches your flash drive (for example, Safely Remove Mass Storage Device - Drive(G:)). When you see the following message appear in the bottom left toolbar, it is, as it says, safe to remove the flash drive from the USB port; you may close the message or ignore it, as it will close itself automatically: Of course, you want to use the instructions for XP, as that is what you are running. Ignore the Mac stuff. Here is a link that might be useful: How to Use a USB Flash Drive

Thanks Pooh Bear. My question now is: Will having 1.1 ports prevent me from using USB extension cable or hub? Upon reading the directions one more time I discovered it does say to attach the cable to the frame first. I really didn't think this would make much difference, but it is worth a try. I'd like to invest in a USB extenstion cable or hub anyway, as it seems like that would be useful. ( I would love a flash drive- ports on the back make that next to impossible for me as things are now) Kudzu9, Thank you too! I agree, the frame may have a defect, but I hate to return it without trying a hub or extension cable. I have checked and it appears that most places are out of the Pandigital frame size I have. I like that it has 256MB of memory and will copy a variety of media from a memory card, digital camera or PC Pam

Sorry, I haven't been checking in here regularly. I'm not sure what "universally compatible" means or means to you. It's a common format because it takes up less room and is acceptable to most people because many don't pay attention to sound quality. Any MP3 sounds inferior to any lossless or WAV file, it's a fact with a well known cause. There are many things that are widely used that are inferior to alternatives - most fast and processed food items fit this description. No more need be said. Audio files are put on CDs in a form of WAV. When you rip a CD to a lossless format (whether FLAC or Apple's ALAC) you get a file that's identical data wise to the CD but about half as large and with the ability to hold tags (metadata). WAV is impractical because they're so big. FLAC and ALAC are like Zip files for data - if you take a WAV file and process it to produce a lossless file and then reverse the process by processing the lossless file back to WAV, the second WAV file and the first will be bit for bit identical. When ripping files, it's inevitable that tags need a bit of sprucing up. Many of the free rippers (EAC, iTunes, Windows Media) offer rudimentary tag info and cover files but in an incomplete way. There are programs to help tagging (free MP3 Tag is my favorite, can be used on any kind of sound file) and most refer to any of the several free online databases like MusicBrainz or Discogs for the info. What you should do is tag your "good" lossless rips and then if MP3 versions are needed, rip the FLAC or ALACs to MP3s as a separate step because the tag data will go along with it. I use Foobar to do the conversions and you can set it up to put the MP3s in folders just the same as your "good" versions are in. It can be done in one, however large batch process that can be set up to do thousands of files at once. It doesn't happen instantaneously, it can take hours. Remember that you can convert an MP3 to a FLAC or ALAC file but once it's been processed from WAV to MP3, data is lost and changing the format to lossless doesn't restore it. My wife's car won't play FLAC files, and she also has a portable player for music as for plane flights, so this is an example where it's quick and easy to process MP3s from CD quality rips when needed. Otherwise, it's the CD quality rips that are used.

USB was originally only specified for 5V and 0.5A -- and even that was only available, if you plugged in an "active" device that had a small CPU in it. That means, you could never run more than about 2.5W through it, and passive devices would only get 1/2W. That's enough for the USB-powered alarm clock on your nightstand. But it would be painfully slow for charging phones. Very quickly, cell phone manufacturers decided they needed more power, but the legal framework in the EU forced them away from proprietary connectors and towards USB connectors. They worked the system by coming up with proprietary solutions for negotiating higher currents with the charger. You'd typically see increased current from anywhere in the vicinity of 1A all the way up to maybe 2.5A. Anything higher than that, and the connectors and wires would risk getting damaged. These tiny little devices really weren't meant for this. The specifics depended on the manufacturer (Apple, Sony, Google, Motorola, ...) until eventually a single standard became popular. But at best, you'd get about 12W. That's still not a lot considering how much power a phone needs, and it definitely isn't enough to charge computers. Qualcomm realized this, and came out with yet another proprietary solution (Quickcharge) that it licensed to a lot of other companies. It increases voltage instead of current. This is safer for the wires and the connectors, but it has the potential of damaging the electronics in your device. So, it requires a much more complicated protocol to negotiate the needs/capabilities of all the components that are involved (i.e. charger, mobile device, and ideally also cable). Quickcharge initially only supported 10W, but gradually went up to 36W, and there now even is a specification for 100W. But I am not sure if anybody implements that. Eventually the organization that standardizes USB woke up to this need and implemented their own system. It's called USB PD (power delivery). It is much more elaborate than Quickcharge and only works with USB-C. But it also gets a lot of things right that Quickcharge couldn't do because of limitations in the USB-A system. These days, all modern equipment seems to have moved towards USB-C and takes advantage of PD. Only older designs or devices that need very little power still use USB-A. In fact, since PD is spec'd all the way up to 100W, you are now seeing many new laptop designs using USB as the power connector of choice. No more bulky proprietary chargers. I simply carry a single universal charger when travelling, and it charges all the devices that my family brings with them. On the other hand, if you have a specific low-powered device that you want to use in a particular location in your home (e.g. string of Christmas tree lights, task light, alarm clock, ...), then by all means, install a USB-enabled mains outlet. These things do have a purpose. They might not be the universal charging solution that you should spread through your home, but on a case-by-case basis they can be very useful.