Pine doors with Oak Trim?

13 years ago

My wife and I are building a new home. We are having a bit of a dilemma selecting our doors and trim.

We will have pine windows and maple cabinets.

We are planning to use maple or hickory for the floors.

Our original quote was for 4-panel pre-finished pine doors from Western Building Products. Our trim is to be pre-finished oak stained to match the pine doors.

We like the look of the pine doors, but are concerned that the oak trim will look strange next the pine doors and windows due to the differences in wood grain.

The sales rep at the lumbar yard is telling me that people routinely use this combination and it is very popular. He said the stains will be customized at the factory and the colors should match very closely. When I asked about using pine for the trim - he said it would be similar in price, but he did not recommend it because it is a soft wood and is not as durable. He said a change to maple would be much more expensive.

Any thoughts or comments would be much appreciated.

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Comments (5)

brickton
13 years ago
Do you really expect your trim to take that much more abuse than the door? If pine is hard enough for the door... wouldn't it be hard enough for the trim?

I agree that pine floors aren't for everyone since they do get marked up, dinged and dented, but pine trim not being hard enough? That's new to me. And usually pine is a good deal cheaper than oak.
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allison0704
13 years ago
We have clear pine windows, doors and trim - all stained. We distressed them all by hand. It is a softer wood, but we've been in five years and the only problem is scratches at the lever (two exit doors) since the dog knows how to open them by himself.

Our floors are #2 oak. Veranda ceilings are spruce. Cabinets are a mixture.

fwiw, we didn't go with pine because it was less (I didn't compare to anything else). It gave us the look we wanted.

Here is a link that might be useful: my house tour
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In my opinion, oil based primer and latex primer, if both are high quality, should bond equally well. The real reason I suggest using BIN is because it will bond better than both, plus it will kill the water stains. I'm guessing that you have water stains because that is what usually happens when condensation from the glass leaks onto the wood. With the sun coming through the glass panes, it is like a magnifying glass on an ant, which will cook the moisture that is sitting on your wood and it will not take long for that moisture to eat through any finish that is on the wood and then eat through the stain layer. This is why it is so important to have the humidity level set so that moisture does not collect on your glass panes. BIN is actually a shellac based product, which means it is not latex or oil based. You would clean your equipment with denatured alcohol, it dries super fast and is pretty smelly...probably stinks worse than oil based. It really sounds like you have some cheap windows to me. If you can't stop the condensation issue and the windows stick when you close them, these are signs. No paint is going to stick long term if a painted surface rubs against raw wood and also painted surfaces should never touch other painted surfaces. What you want is the painted surfaces of your windows touching weatherstips when they are closed tight. I would suggest sanding the windows until you can close them without wood rubbing against wood. I realize you may not be able to do this with every window because they may be too tight because of any number of reasons, but that is where I would start. What is the brand of the windows? Are they double hung style or crankout type casement windows?
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If you were experienced in finishing I would agree with Handy. Since you say you are not a pro,I differ in a couple of areas. Combining colors is an art best left to the pros who have lots of pratice and hone their skill with each new project. Min-wax is not popular with pros but imo is user friendly and reasonably durable. I suggest you look at their color chart for a color you like. I think when you see the examples of your color on oak and pine,it will please you. Shellac is a wonderful product if the user knows what perportion of alcohol to use for the desired result but sticking to Min-wax products including their pre-stain yields fairly predictable results. I am refering to thier oil base system. For goodness sake do not use Poly-shades. It's a mess and impossiable to get good results with. Although the pre-stain is the easiest part of the project, many people fail to do it properly because they wait too long to apply stain. Depending on your speed, do only as many doors/sides that alows honoring time between pre-stain and stain. Oak does not need pre-stain. The clear coat can be done all at one time or more. Their website has a lot of good info. Last but most important is try it on scraps of your woods first regardless what product you choose. Don't get hung up on trying to make every piece of trim and door look exactly the same. If you are uncomfortable with that,go to a cabinet display and look closly at color/tone variance between the parts. The higher the quility,the more variance between pieces that make up the cabinet.
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Pricing wise, the wooden interior doors are more than double. The front door on the house also costs a good chunk more to get a stainable fiberglass material. If I have wood interior doors, I would want at least the inside portion of the front door to be wood, too. However, it is more of an oak and limited to gel stain kits, while my trim will definitely be pine. I feel like I may have too much wood in the house after wooden birch cabinets, stained pine base, stained pine window jambs, stained pine window casing, and stained pine door casing. Wooden doors would flow with the wood trim, but they would be big chunks of stained wood. Looking around online I see a lot of painted trim and stained wooden doors but NOT near as much stained trim and painted doors. However, I have wondered if I had doors painted a darker color, then maybe the wood stained trim would not look so broken up from the doors. Hoping to get a second opinion on this idea and if anyone has some photos of what I am talking about that'd be good to look over.
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I like the trim that you have, too. And see a couple of problems with stepping up the width of the trim. In the first photo, you don't have enough wall space right side of the door for much wider trim. Maybe 3/4-1" of wall space there. In the second photo, it looks like the current trim is almost touching the fireplace mantle on the left. I would love to replace trim in my house but I have too many doors close to walls like in your first picture. I know that unbalanced wider trim would bother me a lot more than the narrow trim (that fits) bothers me. One wide leg with a narrow leg on the other side--just no. My sense on scale wouldn't be able to tolerate it. What I would wholeheartedly embrace changing is the spidey web arched transom over the French doors. Although I really like it, it is just all wrong in Colorado rustic. And wrong for nudging towards a more Craftsman look. Should I change the hinges and knobs of the doors? Your call. Changing hinges on existing doors can end up opening a can of worms. And the only time that I notice hinges is when some lazy slob has painted over them. Oh, and I notice knobs on entry doors so I would pick something I really liked for there. Otherwise, if they all match inside the house, they're just tools AFAIC.
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hadley
13 years ago
I'd use pine. We, too, have clear pine trim in our old house (haven't built yet). It is more sensitive to a poorly aimed chair leg when moving furniture or a canister vac yanked crookedly through the doorway, but if you are even halfway careful with those sorts of things, you should avoid dings. If you do get a few and don't like the patina, softer wood is easier to sand and re-smoothe and re-stain. When staining soft wood like pine, be sure to use a wood conditioner first--it helps the stain take much more smoothly.

We do have red oak treads on our staircase, pine balusters, and an ash banister. Getting it all the same tone was tricky, but it blends OK. The ash was the most difficult to stain, taking three or four coats to the oak's one or two, which, in turn, took at least two to match the pine.
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dabunch
13 years ago
FYI- I had seen a White Oak floor finished with waterbased polyurethane and it looked as light as Maple flooring. The veins in the wood weren't as prominent, but the floor was very pretty and light. Some flooring companies have samples so you can see what it looks like.

If I can remember correctly, we had pine doors and pine trim in our previous house. We had the painters stain them just a touch darker than natural. You almost couldn't see any stain. It looked really nice, but I got tired of the yellow/orange like color. It seems that Oak and pine turn a little more yellow/orange if you leave it natural or don't stain it dark enough.

I like both the white or the stained look, but recently I was wondering if a whitish/linen milk wash on pine doors and trim would look nice.
I saw this pine wall at Ikea that had a linen color milk wash stain with satin poly over it and it looked stunning.
I thought that a thin stain in off white with poly would give it a lighter look (for those of us who prefer natural or ligher wood), with virtually no further upkeep, and the wood wouldn't get the yellow/orange color). I wonder how paint would look next to that type of stain...
I think I'll try to experiment with it and see if I would use it when we build our next house.

PS-I'm noticing that the green homes around here seem to be going with natural wood (no stains), including the floors and the kitchen cabinets.
In light of that, I wonder if white or stained kitchen cabinets will be phased out as the homes go green...
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rudykan1_comcast_net
13 years ago
What is the best stain to finish pine doors to look like the oak trim I have?
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Pine doors with Oak Trim?

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brickton

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