In both the main level guest bathroom and the upstairs bedroom (far left/upper corners), I would move the sink and toilet to other wall (have all the plumbing on the inside wall instead of outside wall). Ditch pocket door in main level bath for regular door.

Two other toilets in upstair baths (near attic space), arrange them back to back so they can share a stack.

The house isn't all that large--to me, the two staircases would be silly, and I'd have better use for the space. I'm not really feeling the butler's pantry between the kitchen and diningroom at the moment, either.

Are you sure the third kids' bedroom can actually fit a tub, like you're showing? It looks shrunken.

I'd be tempted to pump out the dining room to match the living room. Then there would be a simpler foundation to pour if you pour the porch with the foundation. The price should be pretty much a wash, and then you could get a full bath in there by swapping the closet and bathroom.

Ixnay on the pocket doors. When someone's using the bathroom, they will shut both doors. When they leave, they will open only one. That really isn't a two-person bathroom, so I wouldn't worry about door-bumps.

One last thing--the double doors on the master suite. These are almost always an unused pain, and they eat up wall space and must have dedicated swing space. I'd ditch them.

Your doors are too wide for the hallways/entrances. You have to leave room for trim and at least a little bit of drywall. Use your software's 3D viewer to look at those issues. One of the main advantages of 3D design software is the ability to look at how it will work (or not) as designed. You will have to narrow your doors and/or widen your halls/entrances accordingly. You also need to do something with the doors that you have hard against 90 degree walls for the same reason.

Lose the pocket door on the downstairs full bath. You have the pocket on the stairwell landing wall. I'm not a carpenter, but I don't think it's structurally sound. You don't need a pocket door there anyway. It serves no real need, unless you just want a pocket door to have a pocket door.

You need to rethink the upstairs bathroom with two pocket doors. Where are you going to put your towel bars, not to mention your light/fan swithces? Nothing can go into or be screwed to a pocket wall.

The central stairs need a center wall for support.

The entry is bigger than some small houses. Well, it seems that way. Are you sure that's what you want?

You roof line does not have sufficient overhangs for the amount of glass you have, unless you are building way up north.

You have no roof over the areas labled attic. The roof planes appear to be chaotic. Since you did not post an elevation, it's hard to comment fully on how the house will look from the outside, but the roof planes coupled with the immense window above the entry indicate something is amiss.

Are your really finalizing your plans, or are you finishing up the floor plan for presentation to an architect or designer? They are two different things.

There appears to be a lot of wasted space in the house and not all walls line up correctly. Have you had much practice with that software? I spent a couple of years with it before I could produce what I considered acceptable results. Don't take this wrong, but to me it looks like a first attempt by someone who needs more practice with the software and more time studying existing designs to see what works and what doesn't.

I'm sorry, I wish I could be more positive, but that is the impression I get.

Thanks for the comments/suggestions guys.

Allison, is it less expensive to have plumbing on the internal walls?

Reyesuela, thanks for the comments. We put the extra stairwell as a private one for the family to use without going to the foyer to go upstairs sorta keeping the formal living area, foyer and guest bedroom wing separate.

You make a good point about the pocket doors, the doors are far apart so they don't interfere.

It's not less expensive to have plumbing on the inside walls, it's just safer in cold climates as insurance against pipes freezing.

Typically you need 5" on either side of a door.

Plumbing on an outside wall can sometimes have a tight transition below the first floor if there is a foundation wall immediately below it. It also requires the stack bent to be too close to the eave or requiring it to offset in the attic. In this particular design I can see no advantage for it to be on the outside wall.

It's only less expensive (in my suggestions) since the shared wall toilets (sinks, showers, whatever) can share plumbing and vent stacks.

fwiw, I thought there was a lot of wasted space too - why the large foyer? I'd rather have that square footage the rooms.

I also agree about the two staircases. They are not needed for this size home and also waste precious space which could go to other rooms. I grew up in a 6K+ sf English Tudor with two staircases, but rooms were all large and nothing suffered. We built a 6K cottage on a lake 4 years ago. Front veranda opens into small foyer on the main level. Staircase is located in back hallway (by garage door, off kitchen) and goes to the lower level. My parent's current home has a grand staircase (like your plan) and a large foyer. But it is a 7K+ home with a 40 foot long LR. Maybe you have a Gone with the Wind dream to have the grand staircase, so by all means go for it, if it is your dream - but you could get rid of the main/foyer staircase, shift the powder room to that location (back to back plumbing with bathroom), make the upper left corner bedroom larger and give it a larger closet in the process. The LR could also be made larger. Upstairs, this would allow the left bathroom, bedrooms and closets to be larger.

I would probably skip the double window in the double garage - that niche would be a great place for shelves, storage or built-in's. You'll end up coverings on the garage windows that will stay closed all the time (pet peeve of mine).

Does this house plan have exterior elevations we can see?

Would that LR off the Foyer ever get used? My SIL's house has a similar layout, and everyone gravitates to the large Fam Rm off the kitchen. She says that maybe once or twice in ~8 yrs has the room been used.

Depending on work/sleep schedules, you may not want a home office off the MBR. I'd move the office downstairs to where your LR is and make it an office/den with a set of french doors.

The MBR closet is on the other side of the bathroom. Again, depending on lifestyle/schedules, this may not be most convenient. Might not want to have to go thru a wet/steamy bathroom to get dressed, esp while it's in use.

Depending on the sex of the kids, I'd make the bath on the left most bedrooms a shared jack-and-jill bath, and lose the bath behind the stairway.

I'd have the laundry room open into the hall, losing the closet. That'd give two uninterrupted walls to that open area upstairs. BTW, is that a sitting area or something?

The entryway between the garages & kit: With 2 doors going thru there, it might be too cramped to make a real usable mudroom for a family of 5.

I'd lose the balcony over the entry and make the space a common/play area for the kids. Have the 3rd bedroom door open to that space as well. I don't think balconies near kids rooms are a great idea, both for safety and sound transmission reasons. If anything, open the space in the middle of that u-shaped main stairs. That'd make a great spot for a 15' xmas tree.

Thank you for all your responses. We've reconsidered the grand staircase and agree that the space can be better utilized. We're going to try and post a modified plan. The foyer is really sufficiently large without adding a staircase that wont be used much. We're thinking about converting the guest suite to more of a second master suite and upstairs, moving the laundry to where the staircase was and opening up that sitting room/loft.

We dont really mind the master closets where they are, but you make a good point about going through the bath to get to it.

I agree about the mudroom..I'd like for it to be larger..what's the best way to enlarge that space?

Also, I wanted to be able to put a full size extra freezer inside the pantry, but there doesnt seem to be sufficient space for it at the moment.

Plan still needs a lot of work!

Well, if a mudroom and pantry are a priority, then I'd keep the staircase in the foyer, and lose the stairs near the Fam Rm. In it's place, upstairs I'd put the laundry. Downstairs I'd use that space for a pantry/butler's pantry. I'd realign the doorway from the DR to Kit to be more or less opposite the opening from DR to Foyer. Symmetry. Plus, it would open sight lines from Living, thru foyer, DR, all the way to Kitchen. I'd then extend the mudroom into what's now that angled pantry.

BTW, if you shifted them each forward by about 5 feet, would there be a way to connect the 2 garages where they meet in the corner? Long term, it might be a PITA to have 2 different doors to 2 separate garages. (see plan linked below. I like how it bumps-out the mudroom into garage space.)

Here is a link that might be useful: Plan with 2+1 connected garages

Others have already made most of the comments I would have made so I won't repeat them. But with respect to those stair cases, another possibility would be to replace the back stairs with a home elevator which would take up significantly less space than the stair-well leaving you the necessary room to enlarge your pantry and that dinky little upstairs bathroom.

An elevator make your upstairs areas handicap accessible and thereby greatly increases resale value. And, even if you're not planning to ever sell, consider the convenience when you get older and the knees, back and other joints start to get a bit creaky. Or, what if one of your children falls and breaks a leg about the time they hit high school and weigh as much as you do? You do have a downstairs bedroom so you're not totally hosed - but how much better if the child could continue to live in his/her own room while the broken bone mended!

We're putting a three stop "LEV" elevator from Thyssen Krupp Access into our new home in Texas. It'll have a 40" x 54" cab and carry up to 950 pounds. Cost of ours installed was $27K including taxes and we upgraded significantly from the basic cab. A basic model would cost even less. So, in a new build - especially a 4000+ sq ft house like you're designing, the additional cost of a home elevator would be maybe 5% of the overall cost of the home.

Just thought I'd mention it as something you might want to consider...

Here is a link that might be useful: Thyssen Krupp website re LEV elevator

As Others stated you should reconsider the dual stairs. But be sure to make at least one a nice width. 42" min (44"-48") even better. Align the walls of LR/ Study with hall walls. this helps keep framing and loads aligned and gives more room for casing on each side of doors( allow min 4" 6 is better) If using block foundation keep dimensions at 8" increments to save cutting block. Materails come in 24" increments as well. Keep in mind you pay for those lengths and throw away waste. Carpet comes in 12' & sometimes 15"widths. These are things to keep in mind. but framing gets drywall and baseboards and carpet can be stretched a few inches usually. Consider rotating bath on left side bedrooms as it sees you may not have room in hall. One BR closet could move to where stair"was" other could be long closet not walkin facing bedroom.

Guest toilet seems tight maybe as you said move closet to where stairs is and expand powder room and make hall roomier. Your entry from foyer to family room is tight and weak. No sense of entry or grandeur and awkward. Foyer is pretty large as others have stated. Fam Room is reasonable size but be careful with traffic patterns. Maybe push the back wall to align with nook. Be careful of putting windows to close to corners and having no room for brick /trim on exterior and casing on interior. The mudroom is tight and almost useless as it is almost all traffic/door swing. The pantry is good location but protrudes to much into the kitchen. If needed push farther into garage and push garage out 1-2 feet.

Master bath: The shower faces in a way that door is hard to place as it ends up at the end of the shower and cold water when turned on sprays you right as you turn it on. Maybe push tub to the attic/closet wall and rotate the shower and put it behind the doors in the blank spot and have door in side. consider a bench in shower also. 5-6ft of length is good at minimum for master shower. Rotate toilet to common wall with other bath and it can move off center and add a cabinet in there if desired. Reduce width if stairs need to widen. Be sure to get a linen cabinet in there( possibly to left of sinks ) Master Bedroom. Be aware of where the bed goes and be sure to have wall space. I prefer to come in and see bed across the room and not always have to walk around the bed as you walk in. The size is good but if bed is on the opposite wall the doors to office reduce wall length for bed and night stands.Keep in mind I cant see dimensions so just check these things out. Add beds in that program to see the space. It looks a bit like Chief architect or low end version so use it to see furniture in bedrooms as well. These are part of a remodel /rework of a plan Im doing as example.

The bath behind foyer stairs is deeper than required(5') so it could reduce in revisions. consider bumping the master bedroom into dressing area to gain some width in master. The wall can jog and add interest in the room. These are all suggestions but dont take into consideration your tastes, needs, desires etc so just take them for what they are. I like the general plan. It just needs tweaked.

Good luck