European cabinets are usually 60 cm deep. That's 23 5/8 inches.

So I suppose you can say that making a cabinet just an extra 3/8" deep should give you the same rear space as you'd get with a Bosch or Miele.

BUT...

I think you can use this info:

Overall dimensions of a Bosch SHX68E15UC (HxWxD): 34 1/8" x 23 9/16" x 22 7/16". The toe kick panel is 19 7/16" from the back.

Over all dimensions of a KUDE45CV: 33 7/8" x 23 7/8" x 24 1/2". The toe kick panel is 21" from the back.

That means you should add 1 9/16" to the 24" standard counter depth to get the same rear space.

eks6426, do more homework with the PDF files you will get by web searching.
I'm sure KitchenAid has PDFs on the web for their dishwashers.

Then, look at what wires or pipes will need to be behind the DW, or confirm that there will be none, so that your DW can sit flush to the wall.

Then, call KA's 1-800- tech support number.

Finally, post again here telling us what you found so far. At this point the input you will get here will be valid.

Ultimately you have to take responsibility for the space problem. Maybe someone will "know" and post here, but you still have to double-check it completely.

b.t.w. i disagree with the conclusion above that you'll need 1 9/16" plus 24" total depth.

h.t.h.

Ok, so I called KitchenAid to ask them about the total depth of the dishwasher. They said that it is 24 1/2" plus the thickness of the panel...so if I use a 3/8" panel, that gives me 24 7/8"...so I can make the cabinets an extra inch deep and the panels should still sit flush.

please be sure to post pictures when yours is installed!

Don't forget to allow space behind the DW for the water inlet and drain hoses and for the electrical connection. It may be that the areas shown in the installation instructions which must be kept clear can accommodate the water and electrical cables. However, if the electrical outlet isn't in an appropriate location already, you will likely need to allow for a little extra depth for the electrical cable or plan on relocating the electrical outlet.

mrtimewise...thanks for the reminder on the water & electrical cables. We are doing plumbing & electric on our own so we can move them as needed.

But I talked to the cabinet guy and he said the panels are normally 3/4" instead of the 3/8" like I thought. So, 24 1/2" + 3/4"=25 1/4". My stove is a Dacor duel fuel that I was planning on having 2 bump-outs next to it since it is deeper. Those bumpouts would be out to 26 1/8". I am considering just putting the entire cabinet run to 26 1/8"...gives me more counter space and definitely leaves me room for dishwasher connections. I was thinking with less than an inch for the bumpouts (26 1/8"- 25 1/4") that the bumpouts might look odd anyway. Deeper counters sound useful. What do you think?

If you've got the extra floor space (yes, I know it's only a couple inches), and you're willing to spend the extra $ on the deeper counter, I'd plan for the deeper counter.

If you're using a sink with its own integrated counter, you might experience restrictions due to the sink's front to back depth. I'm referring to a sink such as the Kohler Pro Task Center. See the link. We have this sink so our counter depth was dictated by the sink's depth.

Here is a link that might be useful: Kohler Pro Task Center

I am wrestling with this same problem, trying to finish my cabinet order with custom panel for the dishwasher.

If the KUDE70FVPA is 24.5" in depth, then I would think if I just remove the sheetrock under the counter, I can gain back that extra 1/2" so it will sit flush with the face of the 24" cabinets.

The overlay panels on the D/W should then be the same depth as the ones on the cabinets and everything should line up.

Am I thinking wrong here?

What has your cabinet guy said about cost? Uppers 12" and lowers 24" fits nicely when laying it out on a 4x8 sheet of plywood. 26" not so much.

If cost does end up being a factor I would just bump out standard depth cabinetry and make only the end panels a bit deeper. And obviously the counter top.

Are you sure any of this is needed though? After all, it's being marketed as "fully integrated" not just "panel ready."

Fully integrated console, not fully insulated dishwasher. Whatever.

I say if you want a fully integrated look then buy one that's fully integrated rather than futz around. But that's because I probably wouldn't buy anything other than a Miele anyway, and they make 'em.

LOL at my typo. But you know what I meant.