###Remove your venus' flytrap out of that black dirt as soon as possible. Regular dirt contains too much salts and crap you do not want to know about. A terrarium is not needed to grow these plants. Venus' flytraps grow better in windowsills or outside in a sunny location. 1)Firstly, Venus' flytraps live in Sandy/Peaty poor nutrient free soils in the wild in the Carolinas. They prefer and thrive well in soils like Sphagnum Moss, Peatmoss +Perlite, or just peat moss itself(not regular potting soil) So go back to Walmart and buy a Bag of "Sphagnum peat moss" and a bag of "perlite." After you do, mix 50% peat moss, and 50% perlite. Wet the Media, and make sure that is completely moist first.. then you can repot your new plant back to its new sanitary home. 2)Watering, Watering can be simply done by using a tray method. if you have some type of small saucer, you can use that. fill in your saucer with clean water(reverse osmosis, or clean rain water, or bottled sodium free water)After you filled in your Water tray(or Saucer) you can summerge your potted plant. That way, the new moist soil will help your plant's new roots to grow. it will take about a week or two to see your plant improving. never allow the compoist to dry out. Water your plant using the tray method daily.. 3)Sunlight, Venus flytraps grow in full sunlight in the wild. They love growing outdoors in the sun. you can give your new plant atleast 4-6 hours of full sunlight for vigorous growth. when you grow it outdoors. it will feed it self. During the summer months, venus' flytraps need atleast 4-6 hours of direct sunlight in order for vigorous growth. If you grow your plant in a shade spot, it will look distorted , pale and sickly.. so i recommend you to grow it outdoors or in a sunny windowsill.. 4)Dormancy, Venus' flytraps indeed need their dormancy period. they enjoy chilly winters 40 degrees and under. They experience their dormancy period From Late October to early March. If you still have your plant, what you can do this winter is simply; put your potted plant inside a ziplock bag, and place your plant(inside the ziplock bag) inside the fridge atleast for 3-4 months(Later October through early february) that's the only trick you can do for them in order for them to face dormancy(unless you live somewhere where it's really cold in the winters,other wise, you can leave your plant outside all year round. but when the plant experiences dormancy, don't water it as much, leave the plant's soil bearly moist. *i hope this helps, So.. firstly, go back to walmart, buy new Sphagnum Peat moss(Shultz or Lambert) and some perlite. Mix and wet the media, then repot your innocent venus' flytrap into its new home. *After you repot it, it is best to acclimate it under lights or in a bright indirect location for atleast 1-2 weeks, after acclimating it to your surroundings, you can start growing it outside, or in a windowsill.. Water daily using the tray method.. and give it its required dormancy period every year.. i surely hope this helps you FireThorn.. if you fail attempting, do not give up.. growing these magnificent plants is a joy anyone would love to posses.. these plants are very easy to grow once you get the hang of it.. Good luck to your new venus' flytrap.

Hi Alexis, what you need to get are hardy ferns. These are often ferns that are native to your area and naturally grow outside (the ones you bought from the store are not hardy to zone 5b). The below link is a great resource, but you might have to do a lot of clicking! Here are a few to consider: Northern or Western Maidenhair Christmas Fern Lady fern Northern wood fern There are many others. You might also look at the county by county plant lists on the Washington Native Plant Society's page. Here is a link that might be useful: Hardy ferns

Experience, Failures, and persistence. This is what makes a good gardener, and I have never met a veggie gardener who has not failed completely at least one season. If your going organic, there is a lot more you need in our sandy soil. You should take one season off to set the soil right (this coming fall, or winter season). Add lots of composted manure, rock phosphate and greensand to your soil, then mix it in, let it sit, mix more, let it sit, add compost, mix, then prepare for planting. A soil test will tell you what you need specifically, but it is not necessary, just don't add to much stuff to it. I like to make mounds for my plants and water the trenches so that the roots are never soaking but moist. Moist is what you want, not wet, not dry, but moist. For all the squashes, gourds, and melons, I would buy some of those tomato cages and turn them on their side, they shouldn't touch the ground, but training them like a vine is time consuming. Companion planting is a great idea to reduce bugs, you should really check it out. Some companion plants also improve yield and flavor, I always grow basil with my tomatoes, it improves their yield, growth, and flavor; it's also very convenient to have fresh basil leaves right next to sun ripened tomatoes (best combo ever). Gardening is about learning and having fun, so take your time, learn through research and trial and error, and stop to smell the blossoms (if your squash blossoms aren't setting, but look fine, fry them, their amazing).

Bearded iris may be moved right after bloom up to 6 weeks before frost. They need time for root growth before winter. Since they like to "travel" you need a large container if they are going to live there ~~ like a 1/2 barrel. If they will be out of ground for only a few months use whatever pot will fit. They can even be dug and kept dry in paperbags for several months. Do a search on overwinter.