John, You are quite fortunate to find a tractor with a three-point hitch and PTO on it. The three-point is a very desirable option. Too bad about the hood not being original because your tractor came with headlamps that had glass lenses in them and those are highly sought after because they are not available any longer. I would guess that this donor hood has a bump out on the front left side because Power Red hoods were used after the muffler was put under the hood and the bump out was there for the tailpipe to exit. Case HIGHLY recommended the optional weight kit for the front of the tractors whenever using the tiller. If you are handy, you can make your own front weight. There are several ways to go about it. Making use of old cast iron barbell weights is one way. You can either buy an old mule bracket from a parted out mowing deck (same bracket that clips your deck onto the front of the tractor) off of e-bay for a few bucks and then weld a piece of the barbell rod onto it (re-inforce it) so you can slide the weights on and use the barbell retainer to hold them in place. The Case front weight used four of the stock cast iron wheel weights (30 lbs each) for a total of 120 pounds on the front. Case also recommended using tire chains if you do not have Ag bar tread rubber on the rear. And lastly, there was an optional Speed Control Valve (SCV) that mounted on the right side of the dash tower and it gave finite control over the forward speed of the tractor while tilling. Hi Range is used mostly for travelling and very light work. Lo Range is the one you should be in for most work. Since you likely have no service history on this tractor, you would be well advised to do the following. - change the oil in the trans-axle. There is a drain plug for this purpose and a fill plug in the middle of your PTO to put oil back in. Keep your eyes open for signs of water in the oil. It should look like oil when it comes out, not some greyish slime. If you get greyish slime, then allow it all to drain out and put the drain plug back in. Put three quarts of diesel fuel into the transaxle and drive the tractor around for a half hour or so before draining all of that out. You may have to repeat that a second time to get all the crap out. Once you're satisfied that it's clean in there, then fill the trans-axle until oil starts coming back out the fill plug. Use any decent quality 20W50 MOTOR OIL. - next, you need to change out the hydraulic fluid. Since you have a PTO, the easiest way to do this is to remove the quick coupler from the hose that is attached to the PTO valve. Stick that hose into a clean five gallon bucket. Remove the spark plugs from the engine. Push the PTO valve to one of the positions other than the middle one. Use the ignition key to spin the engine over to see if oil is spurting out of the hose. If it isn't, then stop. Pull the PTO handle to the opposite extreme and spin the engine again. You should now be getting oil from that hose. Keep spinning until the oil flow stops. Put the coupler back on the hose. Refill the reservoir under the hood (red tank) with the same decent quality 20W50 MOTOR OIL. Do not use any other type of oil in the hydraulic system other than 20W50 or 15W40 motor oil. Put the spark plugs back in, start the engine and drive it around. Check the oil level. It should be 1 1/2" below the top of the tank. Lastly, change the engine oil after allowing the engine to reach operating temp. In above freezing conditions, use ONLY straight 30 weight oil. Do not use any multi-grades. Change your oil EVERY 25 hours of use. You can buy an inexpensive hourmeter to help you keep track. Places such as Harbor Freight have them. Just find a good ground for the negative lead and run the other wire to the Positive lead on the ignition coil. Find a spot under the hood to mount the meter. Always check your engine oil before using the tractor. Do not allow the level to drop below the low oil line on the stick. Change the hydraulic oil every second year. It's cheap insurance to protect an expensive pump and an even more expensive drive motor. If you have not found a source to buy the Operator's Manual, then post here. You need to put a grease gun to this tractor and the manual shows you where.

tmajor is right about "none know the answer for sure". I'll add this to my little tirade. At your age, it is quite OK to be "ignorant" (and I mean this as "not yet aware or informed") of details. Not a problem, we have all been where you are right now. I worked with an experienced mechanic in my late teen years who was fond of saying "We don't care if you come here ignorant, ignorance is curable by administering a good dose of education, it works every time. Stupidity, on the other hand is most always terminal." I still grin when I play his words back in my head. I'm not as pessimistic about "whether this machine is salvable" as it might seem in reading my previous posts. What I'm trying to emphasize is: This will be a MAJOR undertaking (no pun intended). A project of this magnitude could easily require years of painstaking work (and some money). A big project like this must be divided up into different phases and also EACH member of the power train (engine-transmission-differential) and the other systems (electrical-fuel-hydraulic) will all need to be gone through systematically in order to determine IF they can be returned to operable condition before you put a bunch of money into any of them. Before you start taking parts off this machine you need to equip yourself with a shop manual or service manual and read the heck out of it to learn the components and their relationship to each other. And as I always stress about tear-downs of unfamiliar stuff, USE A DIGITAL CAMERA AND TAKE PLENTY OF PHOTOS. These photos should be taken from different viewpoints before and after each component is removed. You can build a photo file that is more helpful than some photos (or line drawings) in service manuals. Tag the individual items or sub-assemblies as to which position (like "left front" or "cylinder # 1 nozzle", or "front of head" and so forth) it came from where there are multiples of the same part (such as injectors, for example) Use see through "zip-lock" plastic bags to keep parts in (you can write on the bag with permanent markers and they will hold the nuts-bolts-pieces associated with those parts together). The spray nozzles you asked about: They will be the parts that are attached to the cylinder head with 2 (usually) bolts or nuts. They will each have a steel fuel line that runs back to the injection pump. They will also have a rubber or plastic (sometimes metal) "excess fuel return line or manifold" attached to them. You should remove the intake and exhaust manifolds before you begin the process of inspection. When you start removing the spray nozzles, remove the steel "Fuel injection line" from the nozzle first. DO NOT be tempted to "bend the line" out of your way to make clearance for extracting the nozzle assembly, follow the line back toward the injection pump and loosen or remove any holding fixtures or hardware, and loosen the line nut where the line attaches to the pump. The line needs to be loose enough for you to move it out of your way without bending it. Remove the excess fuel return lines from the nozzles. Remove any other objects or components (brackets, hangers, etc.) that may keep the nozzle from coming straight out of it's bore. Remove the nuts or bolts that hold the nozzles in place. Using a suitable prying tool under each mounting flange (area around where the mounting fasteners were removed) gently and evenly, pry the nozzle out of it's bore. There should be a copper sealing washer on the nozzle where the barrel rests on the cylinder head, be sure to retrieve and save this washer. Be extremely careful not to drop or otherwise damage the nozzle end that was inside the engine. The nozzle assembly could easily represent a couple hundred dollars or more (if it COULD be replaced. Pack the nozzles in individual bags and wrap with newspaper or other "cushiony" material and store the nozzles in a sturdy box where they will be safe. Once the nozzles are out of the engine, try blowing compressed air into the hole where you took out the nozzles (to see it any water is still there, a long thin tubed air blower works best). After you determine there is no water in the cylinders, pour the cylinders full of "rust bust" (or diesel fuel or kerosene mixed with a bit of auto trans fluid as preferred by some folks). You may observe some the fluid run out of an intake or exhaust port, this only means that the intake or exhaust valve is open on that cylinder. Let the liquid rust bust sit for a few days. You should drain the engine oil pan and replace the engine oil filter (at least take the oil filter off and empty it at this time). Fill the new filter (or the old one) with fresh oil. Fill the oil pan (crankcase) with fresh oil. This oil and filter will be discarded later in this restoration process but for now you want to make sure the oil pump has clean oil to deliver IF THE ENGINE WILL TURN. You should remove the valve cover and squirt or brush clean motor oil over the entire valve train, valve springs and push rods (or the cam gear, camshaft etc. if this be OVERHEAD CAM, but I doubt that it is). Leave the valve cover off so you and a helper can watch for any valves that might be stuck if/when you get the engine to rotate. You should also drain the hydraulic oil and transmission/differential oil to get rid of any standing water. Realistically speaking, you could drain the water out of each system by loosening the drain plug and letting just the water drain (the water will be on the bottom with the oil floating above it) out into a catch pan. When oil/fluid begins to come out, re-tighten the drain plug and add enough of the correct oil/fluid to the cavity/reservoir to bring the level up to correct. It is possible that ALL of the fluid escaped from it's respective system during the time the tractor remained submerged in the pond. If you ever reach the point of placing this machine back into service you will at that time replace all fluids in all systems. After the rust bust has sat for a few days, use a long breaker bar and socket to try turning the engine. OR ALTERNATIVELY, if this tractor has a gear box transmission and clutch, you can jack up ONE REAR WHEEL ONLY (make sure the front axle is not engaged if this is 4X4), and place the transmission into the highest SPEED gear position possible (this would be like 3rd or 4th and high range). Stand beside the rear wheel that is off the ground and place both hands on it. Now, rotate the wheel in one direction til there is no slack. Now SLAM the wheel in the opposite direction. Watch the engine fan or pulleys for rotation (to see if engine moves). If engine moves, make sure that the direction of rotation is what is normal for this engine (usually it is clockwise as seen from standing in front of engine while looking at the engine). Once you are sure of the correct direction of rotation, roll the engine a few revolutions (if it turns at all). Watch for any valves that don't move up and down as the engine turns. Expect to see the rust bust fluid run out the exhaust ports. If you get this engine to the point of turning freely (remember, you WILL NOT be able to detect compression at this time as the spray nozzles are removed), you will at that time be ready to advance to evaluating and cleaning the fuel system. Do all the above and report back at a later date with a fresh thread. Good luck yetty.

The rear axles or hydrostatic drive on these mowers all have problems! I have the same one ! You can’t check or change the oil! My yard is steep I have to let it cool off for an hour after 20 minutes of use! I drilled a hole in the housing of the rear axle so I can put oil in it because it gets so hot it blows it out the breather on top!! It’s a piece of &@&@$T poor engineering ! I just use 75/90 synthetic because I buy it 5 gallons at a time for my PETERBILT! I’m sure it will quit one of these days and I will buy one with a manual transmission !! Probably a JohnDeere beings Husqvarna can’t build build One that’ll take the Heat!! RJ

Glad this old thread was resurrected... After reading it i'm sticking with a drop-in sink. They're not in style but with doing all the work myself, I prefer how easy it is to replace top mount sinks. And since going with a granite composite sink, I can imagine my heavy iron pans causing cracks or chips. Now I can safely bang the sink up while washing heavy pans without too much worrying. Worst case scenario is buying a new sink and dropping it in. That's waaaay easier than ripping out an under-mount in my slightly undersized sink cabinet.