Automatic Insect Control Misting Systems
grandlaker
16 years ago
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pattiem93
16 years agoworthy
16 years agoRelated Discussions
insects on/around Peace Lilly -- pics
Comments (7)As with any time there is moisture around, we can expect what insects thrive in it. Fungus gnats live on the decaying matter that is always present in soil. AS moisture levels increase, the composting of miniscule bits of matter is then why we see an increased number of those pests that live on it. Hence the advice always is to try to let the plant dry out a bit longer; don't water as per a schedule, but test the plant's moistness before watering. With watering, we encounter drainage....and if such drainage water is not got rid of promptly, such water is then drawn back up to increase the moisture level. Generally, the plant that we think needs water, can be allowed to another day, or two, or three before it actually needs watering. This is one method of reducing the number of gnats. Misting will also often reduce the numbers of pests that attack our houseplants. It can, for a time, do instead of watering. We might also take a look at how much light the plant needs and how the sunlight might be contributing to its needing water so much. The surface dries out, the roots though are well moisturized...and we water; thus increasing the amount of water sitting around the roots. Sometimes, we don't water to drainage, we assume the plant doesn't really need it, so we water in dribs and drabs...hoping some of it reaches the depths. Sometimes its not gnats, but pesky insects such as thrips or whiteflies which are barely visible to the naked eye. For these definite methods of control is employed. Anytime you see a pest or damage from what is believed to be a pest, its a good idea to isolate the plant from each other. Spider mites, for instance, spread like wildfire from one plant to its neighbor and if not caught early, can cause a lot of damage that maybe ends up killing the plant. If you can see them, then use a hand vac, if you cant see them but suspect they're in the soil; do a leaching, immerse the plant totally in water letting the water saturate the plant fully, letting the bubbles stop before assuming the plant is wholly inundated. Then as the bugs surface---they have to breathe---we scoop them out and treat the watering as a normal water period and let the plant fully drain. The leaching method though is recommended to be done only once or twice a year, fully saturating the soil is not recommended to do as a way to control bugs....See MoreGH Misting Systems and automation
Comments (7)troykd, It sounds as if you have the controller. I suspect that it is low voltage, like 24VAC. You need to add a thermostat to your system. You can either add it before the controller or after. If you add it before the controller, you may be able to use a 120VAC prewired thermostat: http://www.littlegreenhouse.com/accessory/controls.shtml But your controller will have no power whenever it is cool and the thermostat has the system off. This might cause you to lose settings or run down the battery backup. Adding the thermostat after the controller is trickier if you have a low voltage system. One option will be to find a low voltage thermostat. I'm sure they are out there somewhere, but I cannot recall seeing one. Otherwise, you will have to use a relay. The 120VAC thermostat will energize a relay when over a certain temp, and the controller 24VAC signal will be conducted through relay and on to the valves. These relays are widely available at electrical supply stores. Be sure to enclose all of this in a protected box to prevent a mishap. Hope that helps....See MoreMisting vs Humidity Chamber
Comments (5)Mist systems don't have to be expensive: $300 bucks makes a 450 square foot mist yard. 1. DIG interval timer & valve. About $100. 2. 6 fence posts. About 20 bucks. 3. 10 stud length 2x4's. About 20 bucks 4. 7 16 foot 2x4's. About 30 bucks. 5. 200 feet of 75 psi rated 1/2" water line. About $40. 6. 240 low pressure misting jets (About $100 -- leevalley.com. I'm sure there is a cheaper source. They are antelco jets, rebagged.) The posts and 2x4's are used to make a simple 16' x 16 foot to 16 x 30 foot trellis. Plant the posts. Screw a 2x4 to the side of the post with a 2' overlap. Screw a second one to the side opposite. Screw the top end to a 16' 2x4. The long 2x4 should be between. Use a single screw until you get the other end up too. At this point you have 3 pi shaped supports in a row, about 15 feet apart. 4 16' 2x4s cross these. These brace the pi trellises from bowing toward each otehr form the tension in the pipe later. Snake the tubing back and forth on the trellis. Cut scrap wood with a notch that the pipe fits tightly in, and screw these to the trellis over the pipe to keep it still. Or pipe hanging tape. Or those copper saddles uses to secure copper water pipe. The pipes should be about 3 feet apart. So if you make a 16 x 30, you will need 6 x 30 feet of pipe, plus manifold pipe and connection to timer. Experiment with a jet to get a handle on the spread, but I think you want them about 18" apart. (Depends on water pressure, and brand of jet.) You want them on both sides of the pipe, so each pipe will have 40 jets -- adjust according to spray pattern. Antelco claims a 0.8 meter diameter, but normally you put sprinklers at a radius apart to compensate for irregular patterns. Punch and screw in the misting jets. Do a single row on two pipes, facing each other. Lay down some newspapers. Turn the system on. Watch the papers and see if they get wet uniformly. You may have to adjust the spacing which means either 60 more feet of pipe or a hatfull of goof plugs. The rationale behind 3 foot spacing: If you use standard 21x10 plant trays, you have a 15" aisle between rows of trays. This leaves no tray right under the pipes, which drip in use, and drain when the system turns off. You might be able to stretch this to 3 trays side by side the long way. Experiment. . Issues: You may need to make a manifold for the pipes so that it starts and stops reasonably fast. Every nozzle will drip. This concentrates too much water on whatever is directly underneath. Easiest way is to run your aisles under the pipe. The ground gets wet. (Surprise!) This can be messy. Cover the ground with old carpet, fuzz side down. Or do the gravel thing. Misting at the edges is erratic, becuase of breezes. This can be used to harden off cuttings that have gotten a start. You can compensate somewhat by scrounging sheer curtains, and hanging them around the mist yard. locate them so they are wetted by the mist. Breezes passing through them will be humidified. Run fence wire curtain height from the ground to hang the curtains. Staple the bottom edge to scrap lumber to keep it from blowing. Note: This will NOT be successful in strong winds. You are building this in a sheltered location, right? You may want to put sunscreen cloth or lath over the top....See MoreAnyone w/Inexpensive Misting System Plans?
Comments (90)I have setup something very simple, even I can do this. What you need is a bed with a cover (four corrugated iron sheets and a see through roofing sheet you'll get both for free). Then you need a timer. You take care of the minimum time the timer can do, because not all timers can do times like 10 seconds some start with a minute. The timer works with batteries. At the tap you mount the timer, then either a piece of hose or a black plastic pipe for irrigation into you bed. There are misting valves, which are inexpensive and come in packs of 10. If you do cuttings you buy risers too which are little plastic tubes. All what you do is you push the risers into the polypipe and mount the sprinkler on top of it. Before you do that you get some sticks and thin wire. I place the sticks in the beds were I want the sprinkles and fix the polypipe to it. If the risers are a bit crooked I can fix them to the sticks. This way you can move your sprinklers around a bit. And don't forget and end cap for the polypipe....See Moreccoombs1
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