I just got one. Its been installed for about 2 months now. It came from venting direct arrived in perfect shape( boxed real well). Mine is 42 inches CH 97. I installed it myself. Its heavy I did the job solo I had to remove all components to hang it. It replaced the common white 36 in hood with two bulb under a plastic lens and a mesh filter about 220 cfm . Its great it makes less noise the the old one but still it not silent by any means. My biggest problem is it makes a strange whistling in second gear. After the motors warm up it goes away (turning it on it goes to second speed) . First gear is silent 3rd and 4th make noise. You move air with a a indoor fan you got noise external fan cost about 1200$ alone then buy a hood. The control switches are strange in their function nothing wrong I just don't get the logic seem like something is lost in translation. As far hard to clean is BS its simple . I worried about the light being dim they are very bright blinding bright. I install it different than by directions I used a 8 inch duct all the way (which is larger than instructed). My roof vent had small output holes so I put a T in the duct and installed a second exhaust on the house's wall. The hood does not come with a back draft damper which I order 2 different ones for my install from the same company. The hood being 25 inches deep is a head banger for me I only nailed it about 3 times you remember it pretty quick. I ordered it with the thought if I didnt like the blowers noise I install a external blower. Which I could still do. This means I pretty happy with the hood itself. I think the most amazing thing about it at as you fire up a burner the hood heats up (place you hand on the hood) switch the fans on the metal temp goes down in in 20 seconds.

The Faber is unusual, since it can work on two 6" ducts in parallel. If you can only have one round 6" duct, you are up against a serious constraint. I'd favor Kobe, Best by Broan, Broan, Sirius, Miele, or any other Insert in the 600 to 900 CFM range that has one or two large diameter centrifuge motors in it and that calls for a 6" duct in its product PDF. Round to rectangle transitions are commonplace. If your available height is 6" you can run a large rectangular duct to the outside and have a rectangular opening on your outside wall. Then you no longer are limited in your choices. To convert rectangular to round equivalents, calculate the are of the cross-section (circle or rectangle) and cut off 10% of the rectangle's area since round ducts are more efficient. Noise is a big concern for anybody. Physical limits to moving fluid in a cylinder apply to air just as in plumbing (water) ; plumbing vents have prescribed minimum sizes to get a certain amount of makeup air. Moving it with a blower means you hit the physical limit of the tube and 6" is the smallest possible kitchen vent diameter. Don't put an 1100 CFM blower on a 6" duct. Even with two 6" ducts, be aware that I haven't found Faber to be a noise-reduction oriented company. Like other Italian companies, they disregard noise, considering it as normal part of life. Japanese and Northern European companies regard noise as the thing to design around (to reduce). With a 6 in. duct you have a single important factor that you cannot ignore. A machine designed for a 7 inch duct will make more noise when reduced to 6 inches. although I do give credit to Kobe for designing an extremely quiet and fairly high output fan (when in quiet mode at about 385 CFM). I'm assuming low-noise and operating strength are your two main criteria. At lower speeds at least. David

Hi there! While it isn't the most common, there have been times we have made a very long/large range hood and only need a certain size insert (for example 10' wide hood, only needing a 48" liner), so most often what we would do is install a stainless steel panel to allow everything to look smooth and coherent with the liner. Some people opt to add lighting to the "dead" panel space, and I would definitely recommend making sure you get the proper CFM for your space, but yes you can have an insert smaller than the range hood. Hope this helps!

You should be aware that for a given blower size, fan blade tip turbulence will always be noisy and likely dominant at full CFM, with baffle hiss secondary. The blade tip turbulence noise can only be quieted by (a) an in-line silencer between blower and hood (not practical in a short length of ducting) or (b) a larger blower operating at partial power (won't fit in hood so it has to be outside). You will need to plan this carefully so all interfaces (duct and electrical) are fully functional. Wolf answers their phone and may be able to suggest practical combinations of stuff they supply. Modernaire may also be able to address the issue with some combination of stuff. Hood and blower from separate sources will require some understanding of how you will control the blower from the hood with its control, or whether you will go for a wall control suitable for the blower. Note: 2 ft x 3.5 ft is 7 sq. ft. of hood aperture requiring 630 CFM for hot cooking. A blower for this should be in the 900 -- 1000 CFM category to achieve this consistent with your plan. If you used a 1200 down-roof (also down wall), such as Wolf, Broan, or Abbaka make, and dial it down to your cooking level, it might be adequately quiet. Noise increases as some power of CFM so a modest reduction from full power may be enough.