When you burn natural gas moisture is a byproduct of the combustion. When the surfaces around the vent are still cool the moisture will condense on the cooler surface. As the surfaces around the vent warm the moisture no longer condenses in the immediate area and is dispersed in the surrounding air. With some gas ovens you will see moisture condense on and between the glass door panels. This too will dissipate as the temperature of the door warms

It's been a long time since I thought about this. I was having an issue recently that I think was probably just water in an igniter (overflow or from a pot put back on the stove to dry after cleaning). I'd been meaning to check back and remind myself what I did and maybe update if I change something out. I did notice that the screws attaching the igniters were pretty corroded. That may have been a bad material choice on my part. My quick and dirty troubleshooting would be to trade igniters from a working burner to a nonworking burner to decide between module and igniter. If the same burner still doesn't work, you might also check out the wiring to see if it's been pinched or otherwise has a problem. That's my mute-the-work-conference-call-and-type-real-quick response.

I like the sealed burners that Wolf makes and have had them just at 5 years. Simmering (keeping just below the boiling point) and even just warming are their strong points. For showmanship some of the ranges will show melting chocolate on a paper plate. You can compare the low end of BTUs on any brand to determine how low a range will go. You will sometimes see simmer measured in degrees which they obtain by measuring water in a pot but the temperature of water is so variable in a pot. If you even move the probe an inch you will get different numbers. The top is much cooler than the bottom. There is much more movement of water than much of what you are cooking dispersing more of the heat as well. The temperature will be affected by what you are cooking. Starchy things like pasta, split pea soup. mashed potatoes tend to scorch more and high sugar syrups hold a lot of heat. I have no trouble holding any of these at just warm. I did have one caramel syrup, out of the many different ones that I have made that would not stop boiling while I was trying to hold it warm on the 325 BTUs. I think it may be because of the small volume. The temperature will also be affected by the pan you are using. If you are using cast iron, steel or stainless steel pans they conduct heat poorly and will tend to hold the heat keeping the bottom of the pot hotter. If you are using pan of aluminum or copper in significant amounts, they are better at conducting heat so it is dispersed producing a lower temperature. Pans that are made in layers are harder to evaluate because the amount of cooper or aluminum in them are generally unknown. The size of the pan will also affect the temperature. The BTU rating at least will give a baseline output before the other variables are added. Wolf (3) 15,000 (950) (1) 9200 (325) Wolf semi sealed were 16,000 Btu high / 500 Btu simmer Keep in mind that Wolf's service is not what it used to be. I feel confident that they will be responsive during the warranty period but they will not stand by their product past that, even with a known manufacturing defect. They did at one time. I have had chipping issues with the blue enamel on the DF. If you go with the AG you may be ok. I would be tempted to buy an extended warranty for whatever you buy as it may be the thing you least expect to go wrong. With the DF I worried more about the electronics going out and it turned out to be the actual physical structure of the oven which is probably more expensive than the electronics to fix. When I bought my Wolf range I was told I didn't need an extended warranty as Wolf would always stand behind it. Not any more.

What is a "local safety officer"? What do you mean "a bunch of back and forth" with your "local safety officer and Wolf"? What prompted you to use your CO meter to test the levels? They are employed by our BC safety Authority who are the regulators for all regulated work, gas and electrical and such. As a licensed gas fitter I hold my ticket through them and they are the final say when it comes to appliance safety. Permits and approvals for equipment go through them. I chatted at length with him about the stove and he did agree we can’t do anything because it meets ANSI standards being below 800ppm, but he did say he wouldn’t have it in his house. His advice to me was if Wolf won’t do anything to then adjust the burner input by under firing the appliance to bring the CO back inline. I went to Wolf with this information and they said ‘based on your requirements I don’t think Wolf products will be right for you, would you consider a buy back’. Checking CO is very common here in Canada especially when commissioning an appliance. I didn’t mention the CO alarm going off because it never went off, however it did show peak levels in the 15-19ppm range after cooking for a short period of time. Enough to make me concerned with a pregnant wife and 2 yr old. This is what will happen if you in a room where the CO levels are 800 ppm. The ANSI standards are referring to the CO levels in the air coming out of the range vent. 800 ppm air coming out of the vent does not translate to a room concentration of 800 ppm. Especially if you have your ventilation on. Now, if you were getting 250-300 ppm where the cook was standing, that indicates a concentration of way more than 800 ppm out of the vent, and thus a violation of ANSI standards. Either way, those readings were way too high and Wolf's response was poor. Yes, I agree, somewhat. The stove should never be operating at the ANSI levels, your house would build up to a dangerous level of CO over time ie. When cooking a turkey for hours. Our utility will actually shut down any gas range over 540ppm during normal operation. Also they shutdown any other appliance if its over 250ppm while operating. I agree we need ANSI standards but as new homes get built tighter and with less makeup air having a cooking appliance pumping 800ppm at the vent/flue is insane. Consider this regulation was put in place in 1926, buildings have changed considerably since then. So, what happened when you tried adjusting it? Was 250-300 ppm the lowest it would go? That would surprise me, I have adjusted several gas ranges and have usually been able to get them down to 30-40 ppm from as high as 500 ppm. I knew this question would pop up, but yes I went through the full range of what is reasonable on a brand new appliance. Below is what I went through, to try and reduce the CO: Tested inlet pressure, adjusted within 1”wc of manifold pressure. ‘Wolf recommends having inlet pressure within 1” for proper operation’ – no change Checked flip top regulator and it was set to natural gas Checked manifold pressure on stove it was at 5”wc Verified orifice was correct as per spec sheet supplied by Wolf Adjusted air shutter, no change was actually higher and this was the lowest I was able to get the stove to run at CO tests were done after 10-15 minutes of operation and the burners were warm Clocked meter to verify burner input is correct Verified no blockage in burner tube Verified all secondary air ports were free and clear House is still very drafty, so not a lack of air within the house The only thing I never did was under fire it, as I didn't want to go down that road on a brand new piece of equipment. Wolf blew me away with their service and willingness to make a customer happy. From a cooking standpoint however, it will be Bluestar for us.