I know more than one installer who prefers Bryant over Trane or Rheem.

Thanks mightyanvil - i have read many of your post and value your input.

As a general rule, trying to cut building costs by using a cheaper HVAC system is not a smart move. However, choosing between the different brands of HVAC units are "less" of an issue than the actual design/components of your individual system. High efficiency units, well-designed ductwork, etc are not areas to sacrifice quality.

Have you already signed a contract with a builder? This discussion should take place before the build begins and before a contract has been signed.

I agree with dixiedoodle. Not that I'm an expert, but I don't think of Bryant as being a "cheap" brand.

Dixiedoodle and carolyn - thanks for taking the time to post. I get your point about the duct work and high efficiency units. We have not signed our contract yet and will have all of this worked out before we do. I guess what I meant was Bryant is not a cheap brand but cheaper than the Carrier in our original plans.

of the 3 I would think that it would
break down like this:

high end..trane
mid range..bryant
entry level (builder's grade) Rheem/Ruud

as pointed out saving money on hvac is not the
best place to cut back.
this is the comfort and health of your home, just because
it doesn't 'show' doesn't mean it isn't important.

Get a good quality unit, a good install..including
a good install of ductwork and don't go with the
cheapest bid.

what you may save now will cost you in the future in
energy costs and other problems.
for efficiency the cost is upfront..savings is for the life
of the unit.

to properly size the unit a load calculation like manual J
should be done.
to design and size duct work manuals S & D.

to go back and fix a bad install is a major pita
most companies will charge extra.

make sure that ducts are sealed with mastics and not
just foil or duct tape.

best of luck with your build.

thank you for all the information - i will post later and let you know what we decide to do - thanks for the mastics vs foil or duct tape information. So much to learn while planning to build - I do get overwhelmed.

Correct me if necessary, but I think Carrier and Bryant are made by the same company. Be sure to actually look at the outdoor unit quoted for your installation before signing the contract. Some units are not well protected from damage. Coleman and ArcoAire are two examples.

Here is a link that might be useful: United

Bus driver - thanks for the information - every time i check back someone has taken the time to post more helpful information for me. thank you.

Bryant and Carrier are made by the same company and some of the units are identical apart from the logo! Bryant is generally regarded as the mid range of the Carrier/Bryant family. The Bryant brand has a good reputation and is generally very reliable. You can purchase a 5 or 10 years parts only or parts and labor warranty from Bryant to give you additional reassurance.

There are some very poor brands on the market so once you have steered away from those I would say the most important things to do are to choose an A/C contractor with a good reputation, one that will stand behind his work for years to come and will be able to guide you on the correct system for YOUR needs. For example do any members of your family have allergies or other respiratory problems, if so air purification must be considered carefully. What about zoning? This could have a huge impact on your energy bills as you can have zoning to heat and cool only the rooms you are using. SEER rating is a must to consider - this determines the efficiency of your system and so will greatly impact your energy bills. Insist on a load calculation and make sure you see it - this is where I would not compromise! This will ensure that the system is properly sized which is vital if you are to avoid mold and mildew or not being able to heat/cool properly. Ask how the ducts will be sealed eg tape and mastic, and make sure this is carried out as specified.
There is a lot to consider but your health and comfort for years to come depend on the right decisions now. I would strongly suggest that you invest sufficient money but more importantly sufficient time to get this right.

We made the decision to go with a high SEER, very reputable system with zoning and state of the art controls, and made economies elsewhere. This is a decision we have never had cause to regret. The units are very quiet, with 7 zones our home is cooled and heated on demand so we are always comfortable wherever we are in the house, regardless of whether there are 2 of us here or 10, and our energy bills are amazingly low!

Something silly: You could do what the sellers of our DS's first tiny house did. They converted the furnace to burn wood. (It was a heavily wooded lot. Well, it was when they started.) This is the same owner who 'un-vented' the gas-fired water heater in the garage so his MJ in an adjacent greenhouse would grow faster.

Carrier, Bryant ,Payne, and Day Night, are all made by the Bryant Daynight Payne (BDP) corporation.

Bryant is a very good brand and pretty much identical to Carrier, but it is important to compare equivalent models and to get it installed right.

You don't say if this is a heat pump or hydro-air system, nor do you mention the SEER rating, type of fan, etc. so people can only say things about whatever brands they have used even though the models might be entirely inappropriate for your situation.

I can tell you that a Bryant Evolution high efficiency hydro air system can be as close to state-of-the-art as anyone would want it to be if installed by the right contractor.

sis3 - thanks for all the info I am just learning about high seer etc.

chisue - we are building on a 10 acre wood lot, but I think I like my trees and LOL , we only grow tomatoes.

mightyanvil - I think we are looking at the Bryant Evolution.

Much thanks to my GW friends

sis3 - thanks for all the info I am just learning about high seer etc.

chisue - we are building on a 10 acre wood lot, but I think I like my trees and LOL , we only grow tomatoes.

mightyanvil - I think we are looking at the Bryant Evolution.

Much thanks to my GW friends

if you want to cut costs, then buy cheaper finish products such as low end light fixtures, knobs/drawer pulls, plumbing fixtures. buy the best you can afford on windows/doors/HVAC/insulation. you can always replace teh others easily, but this latter stuff will get expensive to replace later.

we replaced an old HVAC system last year with a new Trane XL14i heat pump and it instantly cut our electric bill over 2,000 kwh a MONTH. the savings on teh electric bill alone paid for the unit!

davidandKasie- very good point about upgrading the smaller items later - I could use the money that my good HVAC would save me on my electric bill!
Thanks for taking the time to post. I just love all the information I am getting.

I like the way you think davidandkasie.
Things like countertops can be upgraded later
as can use of crown moldings.
I usually tell my clients to tell sheetrock installers
that they are NOT using ceiling moldings at all.
this way the joint between wall and ceiling is floated
and taped.
It is amazing how much air leaks from attic into conditioned space. In my area hot humid air leakage
into the living space increases utility costs, adds
more RH to living space.
In some cases where this joint is not sealed mold grows
on the ceiling moldings. Hot humid air from attic meets cool air from conditioned space..

Small details..such as air tight drywall approach (ADA)
saves $$ in the long term which quickly offsets cost of
taping and floating these areas.

OP..recessed lights?? If so make sure that they are not only IC (insulation contact) but ICAT..insulation contact
air tight. Cost is minimal during building stages but retrofitting IC to AT costs $15 to $20 per light.

Best of luck and go with at least a 14 SEER..
have you looked at heat pumps instead of electric heating and a/c..big savings in wintertime.
Where are you located?

energy rater la - I just added to my list to tell my builder I want the sheetrock all the way to the ceiling. I am so glad you reminded to do that. We are building in North Carolina (central) - not mountains and not costal. Can you explain heat pumps, I am not familiar with heating terms - grew up in South Florida.

heat pumps provide both a/c and heat.
in summer it is a/c in - winter it reverses action
and provides heat. electric strips are emergency
heat for when temps reach 30 degrees and stay there.
electric strip is the most expensive way to heat a home.
ever used a space heater for a week and seen the
increase in utilities??

when heat pump is in heating mode it will at times
go into defrost mode..steam will rise from outdoor
condensing unit..normal operation.

the roi is short with heat pumps they will cost more
upfront..about $700 more than a/c with elec strip
payback is 2 years in my mild climate.
faster in climates with longer heating season.

SEER is for the a/c HSPF (heating seasonal performance factor) and COP (coefficient of performance) are
heat pump numbers to shop for.
Just as you want a 14 SEER, HSPF should be at least 7.5
ARI (american refrigeration institute) posts this info
on all matched units, once you have model numbers you
will be able to check and see what exactly you are
bidding.

this is not detailed information, just the headlines
as you collect bids ask each company to explain to you
what they are bidding. sometimes it is difficult to
compare bids when the same efficiency units or same
types of units are not the same.

best of luck!

(and be sure to tell your sheetrock crew that you are
not installing moldings so that this area will be taped)

thanks energy rater la - I think I understand heat pump vs electric strip. Will be talking more with my builder.
What I have learned (I think) - heat pump will cost more up front, but will save money on electric bill later. This system should be at least 7.5 ARI.

If I go with the other HVAC (not heat pump) I should get a 14 SEER.

Sheetrock goes all the way to the ceiling , and it needs to be taped. (I will tell the crew I am not installing molding.)

Thanks for all the help - I'm learning ( with the help of GW friends)

I have been told that 13 SEER is the lowest that can be manufactured these days and that Energy Star qualification starts at 15.5 SEER.