I didn't buy the CD because I didn't want the thread kit that ran the whole thing up to almost $150 with tax. I have enough thread and do hand cross stitch with every DMC color known. I discussed this with the dealer and told her the colors were off according to what the statues colors are and why I didn't want the thread kit, just the CD. The CD embroideries were licensed by the convent who owns the Hummel rights and digitized from the original paintings done over 60+ years ago...paintings probably have never been cleaned although archieved so you know the colors are off, especially on skin tones. The figurines are painted with oxide glaze colors I prefer.

Hi Udarell- Thanks for both your posts-- and I've read the articles too! Your point about looking at the EERs is a good one. Given that the SEER (and other ratings) can be misleading by themselves in trying to draw specific conclusions, they should be useful for at least a comparative analysis of the same company's products. My point of view is that if a manufacturer publishes a figure in its literature for a given model, I believe it should also be shown for other tonnages of that specific model, not just the for the one that has the highest rating and "looks best" on paper. So 5-ton SEERs (I had to look some figures up on ARI Certificates) are lower than 3-ton ones for the same models. I think it's sneaky to mention only one-- and I don't see any good defense to why they exclude information. If I'm trying to compare SEERs or EERs for different models or different manufacturers, I cannot easily do so-- and I just want to have that info as one component in my decision-making process.

drtechno, How cold is the water at the coldest part of the year? If it is 35-40 degrees (I've seen mine get near 32) then a 70 degree rise would bring it to 105-110...not 120 On a tankless, you assume a shower temp of 105 as if the tankless was outputting 105 degree water and forget about mixing. So, a 200k btu/h tankless could heat ~5 gpm from 40 - 110 degrees (which would give you a little extra for heat loss in the pipes and the option to run more than 105 if you like hotter showers) which is enough to run two standard showers, but not your 7 gpm master shower... and certainly not all three. The reason that you don't worry about mixing ratios on a tankless is because you aren't storing any water. On a tank system, it makes sense to store 40 gal of 140 degree water and mix it down to 105. There's no benefit to doing this on a tankless. Some of them even have bathroom controls so you can set your shower all the way to HOT and then set the water heater to output the exact temp you want. In practice, you generally set a tankless to 120 or so for the dishwasher and washing machine - but it doesn't change the capacity of the heater. You are running less water through the heater, but it's at a higher temp rise so the math is the same.

Sweet, good to know this exists and that people know how to read!!!