I don't know if McDonalds is an open network or not, but if it is you should be able to connect automatically. If you don't get a connections, again if open, McD may have some log-on requirement, most do, something to say you agree to be on an open, no security, network Seems I sometimes have to click: Start -> connect to -> Show all connections -> Click on the "Wireless" Icon and ask to "see all networks". This may be enough to get you connected, if necessary at all.

When there's a sudden change in one location, the first things I suspect are either a movement of physical items like furniture or other stuff to block the signal, or a neighbor causing broadcast congestion by using the same Wifi channel. About channels - While there are theoretically 11 available "channels" on the traditional 2.4 Wifi band, interference really limits clear settings to using one of three- Ch 1, Ch 6, and Ch 11. Get a free wifi analyzer app for your smartphone or tablet, and see what's visible to your devices. If you see congestion, switch your channel setting to one where it's less crowded (done by logging on to the router). Most routers have a default setting of Ch 6 and few people change it, so often either 1 or 11 will give you better performance. Or, if your devices are dual band, try enable the 5Ghz frequency broadcast and see if there's any improvement. If neither of those two ideas helps, try a repeater and I agree that sticking to the name brands is a good idea. With one exception: I have a Hawking Extender and like it very much. I've long had Linksys routers and prefer them. When range extender time came for me (maybe 4 years ago), I thought I'd try a Linksys model, assuming maybe the line had good quality. I got the WRE54G, it was an awful piece of junk, both hardware and software wise, no other description fits. I threw it away, I was too frustrated with a month long setup failure to return it. A techie friend recommended Hawking, and it turned out to be everything the Linksys wasn't and to have every feature the Linksys lacked. Maybe the Linksys product is better now. Home networking equipment is known to be shoddy, one specific item can be great while another new one of the same model (sitting next to it on a shelf) can be awful. I wouldn't call Belkin one of the better names, but certainly among D-link, NetGear, Linksys (and Hawking if still making one) you'll fine something that will work. There's no need to match brands with your router, all send and receive the identical signal. In fact, there are only a couple of companies that make the chips, so that many brands are identical inside (as far as physical components) and differ only in their firmware (software) and user interfaces. Buy it from a seller that will allow a return without a restocking fee. Edit for PS- For those with large houses, or the need for high bandwidth in Wifi (as for streaming TV or multiple users doing that), an alternative setup is to get two powerline devices (to run the signal first over your house's electrical wiring). One powerline dongle connects via ethernet cable to your router and plugs into a wall socket (not a power strip), the other dongle plugs into a wall socket at the far end and has an ethernet cable run to a nearby WAP (Wireless Access Point) device. The WAP puts out a Wifi signal, but the powerline devices run that captured signal over wire to the router. Using a repeater cuts bandwidth in half, because the signal needs to be sent twice (from router to repeater, then repeater to device, and the same in the opposite direction) for communication. With a WAP, it's sent only once. So that's maybe 12-14 megs of throughput instead of 6-7 with a repeater

Just a thought: I was having trouble using my VUDU Account on my Smart TV in my Bedroom. My wife uses Netflix all the time in there and the one time I try to watch a movie from my VUDU account it would run for 30 seconds and then the screen would go Green (also pixelated). After many hours of trying to figure out what the problem was, I figured out that the Software had been up dated to Accommodate HDX and the TV was only able to play the movies in HD or SD. I wondering if Netflix has a feature where you could adjust the picture resolution like in VUDU. You could then try it at a lower setting. I do have Netflix but have never had any problems. But it may be worth a looking into.

If you can hardwire it, an access point would give you better reliability and performance. I’m not a huge fan of range extenders because they get their signal from your existing brodcasted wireless so it will likely be degraded. That said, they can be handy when you cant run a physicsl cable to its location.