You can look into Aquamix's Sealers Choice Gold, which is waterbased. However, because of the fact that it's not solvent based, it doesn't penetrate quite as much as to solvent based sealers, and as such must be reapplied alot more often. So up front, you get the good price. But down the line, it'll cost you much more in reapplication.

The Sealer's Choice Gold that Bill recommended is what I've been using as a sealer on concrete countertops for the past 15 years or so. It's food-safe as well if that makes you feel more comfortable.

I think all MSDS's can look scary! Heck, they could even make one for water look scary.

Stone Glamour is a topical sealer. I'm not a fan of topicals, I prefer penetrating sealers. Plus using a topical sealer on ceramic/porcelain tile could be problematic, as it's a topical sealer on a surface that needs no sealing.

White grout on a floor...a sealer might slow grime accumulation, but the grout will eventually discolor in traffic patterns.

The only real bullet-proof-ish white grout might be an epoxy grout, or an epoxy-based white grout colorant like Aquamix's grout colorant over a portland-based grout.

Whatever you use for grout or thinsets, look into using Laticrete products for the grouts and thinsets. Just about all Laticrete's products are LEED certified.

Here is a link that might be useful: Laticrete LEED Project Certification Assistant

Thank you! This has been very helpful.

So far the consensus seems to be to use a penetrating, not topical sealer, on the grout (both floor and walls) after everything has had a chance to cure. Maybe using a steam cleaner on the floor will help with dirt? or is that a bad idea?

I do have one more question regarding that vapor barrier we've installed behind all the surrounds and shower. I'm getting mixed answers on whether to install some kind of additional water proofing barrier, like redgaurd. I don't want to create a mold sandwich by not allowing moisture to escape and having the barrier behind the backer as well as another water proof one in front seems to be causing some concern. Any thoughts?

I'm going to digest all this and may have a couple more questions if you guys don't mind tomorrow night. I'm trying to get things wrapped up by Monday night so I know what to order, etc., plus you guys have more people than me to rescue!

Thanks again,
Kj

I just realized that we will be installing a preformed niche or recessed shelf in one of the shower walls. Won't that compromise the vapor barrier? Is there a way to handle that. I did install the poly in horizontal strips but I'm not sure I can easily place another strip behind the shelf and won't that inhibit water from traveling down as it will run into the shelf?

What about screwing grab bars, etc, into the tile, won't those also compromise the barrier? I was kind of wondering how the staples and hardie backer screws would affect the barrier too since they puncture the plastic as well, we had a hard time keeping the staples from tearing when it was a big sheet, that's why we went to strips and overlapped them.

After reading some more posts, it sounds like I do not need to install a water proofing barrier since I have the vapor barrier in behind the board.

It also sounds like I need to use a penetrating grout sealer, not a topical on walls and floors and that Aqua Mix will work AND is low VOC.

So now my questions are:
1) how to insert a wall shelf with vapor barrier and hardie already in
2) can items be screwed through the wall into the barrier without causing problems?
3) is it ok to use a steam mop on the sealed caulk floors?
4) is Aqua Mix Seal and Finish the same thing as the Gold version?
5) is the Aqua stuff for sealing both wall and floor grout on both ceramic and slate floors?
6) do I need ANYTHING else to seal or finish the walls or floors?

Thank you so much!!!! Now I have to go paint and install wood floors or we will never be done with this.
kj

1) While it's best to detail that ahead of time, a preformed niche can sometimes be "pressed" into place and it will simply stretch the poly vapor barrier back and behind the niche. It depends on how tightly the niche conforms to the framing cavity. If needed, you can simply cut the current poly vapor barrier, tuck it back, and add more poly and tape/caulk the seams between the old and the new poly.

Realize that any vapor that does get through the tile/grout doesn't necessarily mean you're going to have a mold-fest inside the wall. When a drying cycle occurs, that moisture usually exits the wall from the same path it entered...through the grout/tile and back into the bathroom.

2) Screws will normally be set into the framing. So no worries there. If installing a grab bar, or something like that, I'll drill a pilot hole, squirt a dollop of caulk or sealant into the hole, then drive in the screws and wipe off any squeeze-out.

3) Yes.

4) No. Sealer's Choice Gold is a different and more $$ product.

5) Yes, it can be used to seal grout and stone no matter where it is installed.

6) Not really. Clean grout. And depending on what you're sealing, something to apply the sealer with and if required, something to wipe off the excess.

Aside: If installing a preformed niche, after the niche is in you might want to apply a topical waterproofing material (like RedGard) on the face of the backer board around the perimeter of the niche, 8"-12" or so. It doesn't violate the "two vapor barriers" rule.

One other thing you need to remember with respect to the vapor barrier-- It IS just that-- a vapor barrier. It's not a waterproofing, nor is it meant to be (or when it comes down to it, needed to be). If you cut a hole in the vapor barrier the same size as the hole in the Durock, and then insert the niche, you'll be fine. It wouldn't hurt to caulk the edges, but that might be a little tough. If this really worries you, I'd forego the vapor barrier entirely, and redgard the surface (or actually, being you want to go green, use Laticrete's Hydroban) instead.

Thanks you guys. I just got home from painting at the new house. We live an hour away - not terribly green of us doing all that driving - but kids are in school, etc. and trying not to upset the apple cart just yet.

I'm printing all this out and will go over it tomorrow, when I can see straight.
I really appreciate all the help. This has been a difficult year (4 with all the planning) and its nice to know there are people out there willing to help when things get confusing.
kj

I just realized that the tile guys cut off my vapor barrier and inch or two above my tub lip. I thought it was suppose to rest over the lip a little. Do we need to fix it? I did the plastic in layers like tar paper so I should be able to slip another layer up if they remove the lower portion of the hardie.

It should be extended, yes.

I just talked to them and that's what there doing on one side, the rest of it they were able to fish out from behind the wall and make it long enough. I'm not there either so my husband went down to see. Hopefully everything is fine, I'm really tired of worrying about it.

Thanks for answering so quickly!

I have a solar porch addition to my rural home in west central
Wisconsin. The ceramic tile floor is also a black/grey with
dull grout. The ceiling is cedar with a skylight (openable in
the summer). The back wall is open with partial brick around it. We also have two electric baseboards in it, should some
days/nights be cool when needing to use. It also has a peach
tree patio door, and track lighting. I think it is such a
nice place to bring in colorful potted plants also. It's also
great for bird and wildlife watching. Then there is an inlaid
rock patio off of it, and then a wooden deck, stairs, and another deck and landscaping hedges etc. We also have basketweave shades to close for extreme heat or cold. You will really like it!!!