Hello, I greatly appreciate all the posts above and have read and believe tried every one of them in an attempt to resolve my issue.. My situation is the same as many of you. My 6 year old Wolf LP gas stove starting having one burner constantly click after being turned off. This started shortly after a spill over occurring with the SO. She cleaned the burner and I cooked on it once or twice after wards and then it started. I would cook, then turn it off and it would constantly click, or until the burner switch was turned on again. Right now the only way to stop the clicking is to turn off the GFI or the breaker. I have checked the LP tank and its about half full. I have swapped out the ignitors from one burner to another, and the burners and covers. All 6 burners are working on regular use and on simmer including the one burner that is constantly clicking. After pulling all the 4 burners up where the faulty burner is, removing the drip pan, I switched out the blue electrical boxes under the pan between the faulty burner and another burner. Putting it all back together, the issue is still the same and burner clicks even though the knob is clearly in the off setting. I also checked the simple things like knobs and am handy on most things but this has got me stumped. Any solutions that worked for all of you besides calling in a repairmen are greatly appreciated in advance.

tugs - yes, the pressure has been checked by the plumber and by the gas co. - all is good on that front. Not exactly what the Wolf was doing - but same end result -no use of the oven. Hate to say it but getting service on the Wolf was waaaaaay easier - they have a service network here. Also, many others had that same problem with the same model Wolf and mine and others were bought back from the company. The problem with the American didn't start until AFTER the service company tore it apart and put it back together while installing a part to fix the gas smell we had. Then they fixed some small gas leaks and put in a new gas regulator. All the problems started then and it has been progressive. We've gone from annoying clicking with the burners to completely crippled using only one burner at a time. I'm wishing I had the 15 year old GE we replaced when all this started. After cooking with gas most of my adult life I would seriously consider going induction/electric after the past couple of years we have had! Service is due out Monday - I'll let you know what happens.

Gary I think I once had an electric "stove" with a burner like that "sealed electric burner" for awhile. Agree that induction can provide a great range of heat and generally even heat unless there is an issue with the pan. For gas though, there seem to be features attributed to "open" in the open/sealed debate that are really due to other factors. There are several components of cooking that can contribute to a cooking surface that applies heat evenly to your food. You could look at the configuration of the burner ports. Open, sealed or semi open as in the old Wolf burner, there are attempts to make a better pattern of distribution by increasing the number of ports and spreading them out in concentric ports and putting them in a star shape. The most advantage would be for a pan that does not conduct heat well, like cast iron or a very thin pan. They must be sized to the burner though, as you size a pan to an electric burner. The second aspect is considering the size of the pan in relation to the heat pattern of the burner. Once you have a pan, like cast iron, that is bigger than the burner,even though the heat is distributed evenly over a 6 inch circle, you have a hot spot in the middle of the pan. I use 14 inch pans quite a bit and so with my 14 inch CI pan I am better off with a larger ring of heat that would cut the total area of the pan roughly in half unless I could find a star burner 12 inches wide. The flip side is a burner that is too wide for the pan. You then have the heat going either to the very outside or completely around the pan. An open burner on the highest setting will produce a flare but the extent to which this happens depends on how the burner is engineered. Here is a picture of the 30 inch Wolf cooktop compared to 30 inch BS and even when you consider the flare really only on the highest burner setting, the burner is much smaller to begin with so might accommodate a smaller pan easier than the BS. People on this forum tend to focus on the heat source because it is an appliance forum not a cooking forum. To get the most even heat in many more situations, don't worry about the burner but the interface of the food to the burner--the pan. Use a good heavy copper pan and not only will heat be even across the bottom but even up the sides as well. Heat will be coming evenly from all directions. If you can't swing copper use heavy aluminum. Last week, I did use a commercial range with star burners, (with almost no void of burner ports in the middle) with a cast iron pan. It was well sized to the burner so heated well. It had a very poor low end of heat but I'm sure I could work around that if I had to. I have cooked on other commercial ranges as well. I still do like my sealed burners for home due to the great control of the flame especially the low end. I can certainly see people making other choices though. I am currently using my range but due to the issues with the "blue chips" I will at some point replace it. I may have to reconfigure my kitchen to accommodate a rangetop and I am not sure what that will be. Maybe I will get a CVAP for the oven. They are supposed to be coming out with a residential version.

Repairing a Viking range for a friend of mine. After endless searching on the web, Viking is junk and their support is crap. All I can say is this 48" gas range is about 6 years old. The only reason is has lasted this long is due to to the fact the person that previously owned the house and installed the appliances did not really cook. So they were rarely used. There is a file with about 4 service visit. The igniter for the burners has 1 bad leg and the igniter continues to run. Kind of normal, igniter order to replace this. When using the oven there is a constant gas smell and the other day they were using it the CO detector in the kitchen went off. I tore into the oven yesterday. Baking burners have holes from the oven glow ignitors running all the time. Then I found the entire bottom of the oven a disaster. The flame guard/baffle fell off the bottom floor of the oven and was resting on top of the baking burner tubes!! It appears that this flame guard/baffle caused the screws to back out over time when it expands and contracts?? Screws are in the bottom of the oven below where they would have been installed. This only happened on one side. Then when the screws fell out of one side of the flame guard/baffle, the spot welds on the "Z" bracket on the other side broke off. There were 2 spot welds that were too close to the edge of the "Z" bracket and they were less than 1/2 strength. I did better spot welding in my middle school shop class!! What total idiots. I will see how many years their warranty covers mechanical parts and welds, as far as I am concerned welds should be lifetime. So new bake burners have been ordered. Not sure how to repair the bottom of the oven as the floor is porcelainized and welding or drilling will cause the porcelain to crack, but probably will make a repair and see how it goes. These stupid ranges are a serious safety hazard and everyone needs to report their problems to the CPSC (Consumer Product Safety Commission). They will not do anything for your specific problem, however, if enough complains show up, then they investigate and may issue recall notices? Oh, this is just the range problem, will not even go into the refrigerator door hinge problem. These have been recalled, however, the appliance repair people they sent out have changed the hinges 3 times and the doors still do not work correctly. Not sure is the problem is parts, training or just plain sloppiness on the appliance people?? Anyone who tells you Viking appliances are good quality either do not use them or they have staff that cooks and they have no idea about the poor quality of these appliances. If you use these appliances daily, you will see. Oh, then just wait if you expect support from Vikings indignant customer un-service staff. They feel like you are personally attacking their company. Well they deserve it, how disconnected can you be regarding crap products you turn out and sell for $1000-$5000 more than a standard Sears or GE product that actually works!