I changed the entrance of my shower tub. The panel board was moldy; water was getting in between the top tiles and the panel board. the joint was not well sealed. I put new everything for the entrance, even a membrane between the plywood and the tiles. However, it seems to leak from the wall now. Water is coming out of the wall outside the shower tub. Would it be the grout, tiles...? Tiles and grout are probably 20+ yrs old ( turquoise tiles). I tried to put some ready grout ( in a tube), but it still leaks! Calking is well done. Should I remove the old grout and put new one everywhere? Thanks for your help!

The pencil molding should work fine for an edge to your backsplash so long as it is finished on the edge. If not, I think your installer can grind the marble to make a bullnose as needed. Perhaps Bill V. can comment? FYI - most tile sizes are stated to include an average grout joint. So the 4x4 you were told is really 3 3/4 plus a 1/4" grout joint. The diagonal is 5.3" plus grout joint (say 5.55") and, as you've noted, your installer will need to make a lot of cuts to use them. I don't think you should try to cut the inserts smaller. However, a good installer can make this work. If you switch to the 2" x 2" inserts, the diagonal is 2.8" plus grout joint, which should fit just about perfectly in a row of 3" subways. But is this the look you want? The 2" inserts will be more understated versus more drama (with the 4" inserts) and this is a personal choice. A couple of questions arise: what is involved in switching the 4x4 inserts for 2x2 inserts? If these tiles are locally available, then you have lots of options. Second, can you get samples of all your tiles to play with these next few days? With installation scheduled this Friday, your tile must be already in stock locally or en route? Ask your installer (or whoever ordered the tile) to give you a box of the subways and both insert sizes (several of each). Then you can play with layouts of the actual tile. That's so much easier than just looking at other people's designs. Next best is to ask someone on GW to do a mockup for you. You will need to provide links to your subway tile, in addition to the photo of your inserts shown above. Just some random thoughts at this late hour. I know your time is short to make a final decision. HTH. Carolyn

Alexx - I really love your kitchen! It came out beautifully!! I have a question about your counters. I am doing a similar look with the white shaker cabs (framed w/full overlay) and quartz (Caesarstone Raven) countertops. I will also be doing a mitered edge with a 1.5" overhang. My question is ... how far do your counters project past your cabinet boxes, as well as past the doors/drawer fronts. There is some dispute between my cabinet maker and the countertop folks. Cabinet maker says I should have a 1" projection past the doors/drawer fronts, while the countertop folks are suggesting a "flush" appearance (not truly flush, but more like a 1/4" projection). Can you tell me what yours are? And if anyone reading this has suggestions or advice, I would appreciate it! Thank you!

A roman shade isn't that hard - I know you can do it! I like the idea of softer, more muted fabrics - and I really like the blue bubbly looking one you last posted. BTW, Christopher Peacock used a tangerine paisley in his kitchen: This might look nice too. or this: Since you like to shop online, try Hancock's of Paducah. They have a ton of nice quilting and home decorating fabrics. I also like fabriccarolina.com, which is where the scrolly fabric came from. Good luck finding something perfect! Here is a link that might be useful: Hancock's of Paducah link