I haven't actually cooked on the Miele range, but I took a close look at one and agree that it looks very promising. All sorts of features plus very nice burners and what looks like something that's very like Wolf's "true simmer" capability but a burner that goes up to 19K BTUs (instead of 16K for the Wolf). However, all of the electronics right under the burners seem like that could cause trouble down the road (although I've been looking at dual fuel ranges, and they all seem to have lots of electronics). Haven't looked at the Bertazzoni, mostly b/c of the mixed reviews I read here and elsewhere. They do look very sleek, though.

Sorry hvtech I did not see this post but will answer now. I don't think that there is any disagreement about how the oven works but rather if this is going to impact the way you use your oven. "without actually owning and using the oven, I don't think you can draw the conclusion that you have" Capital is very specific about how it works. I merely point out what they have written. What specific conclusion do you disagree with? "I also think there is confusion about what preheat mode on any oven actually is. You said in an earlier post that most ovens will go into a preheat mode after a small drop in temperature (25 degrees or so). This is not the case. On most ovens, preheat mode comes on exactly when you'd think - only when the oven is preheating. Not when it is just trying to maintain temperature." The point is not what you are calling the heating cycle, but the fact that it exists, and is responsive to the thermostat which keeps the temperature tightly controlled. Some people use the word loosely to mean whenever the elements come on. For a long time the preheat was the bake element coming on and this was indicated by a little red light. The same red light came on when the bake element came back on to maintain the temperature. Now you have the possibility with some ovens of more elements coming on during preheat and a little light that says "preheating" during that time and the little light may or may not come back on after that. To be more specific, you can call it "preheat" when the elements in the oven are on until it reaches temperature and call it "recovery" when the elements come back on to maintain the temperature. For either, it is the heat coming on when the oven temperature is more than 25F (or whatever defines the thermostat's parameter) from the set temperature to allow a rapid return to the set temp. Every oven I have ever had, probably 15 or so have operated this way- controlled by the thermostat -except one. In some ovens, like Capital electric ovens, the heating is done in a totally different way. The preheat comes on and heats the oven to temp and then a computer program takes over and turns the element on and off rapidly according to "logic" mentioned by Trevor above. It does not know if the oven door is open or a large amount of cold food has entered the oven cavity. It just keeps oscillating blissfully at the same rate unaware of the new burden it has received. The thermostat does not come into play for a long time because it is set so that there has to be a 150F differential, according to the manual, quoted above and confirmed by the notes from the factory. " Preheat mode on ANY oven (not just Capital's) is intensive and has the potential to burn food, so it only comes on when there is not supposed to be any food in the oven." I would not say "ANY" oven. They are all very different, especially electric ovens. The preheat can potentially cause anything from almost nothing to browning to burning depending on how the oven is designed and the food you putting in it. There are some ovens that allow you to put food in the oven and then set a time for it to start cooking. This is very common actually and there are some ovens that advertise no need to preheat. I would not bake a cake in them but you can bake something like a casserole. The preheat is not as intense in those ovens. Ovens that might be more intense would be those that use convection or a combination of elements to rapidly preheat but even this varies widely. " From the user guide and factory info, the only thing that it looks like Capital does differently is engage preheat after a severe drop in temperature (which shouldn't happen in normal oven use, as Trevor's testing indicates)." ----->Please define "normal use"<----- " I can't find any evidence that just because the CC engages preheat after a large drop in temperature, it will also have issues maintaining the set temperature without preheat mode." Capital spells it out for you. "No quick recovery. Oven will cycle normally despite large temperature drops due to the door being left open, or the oven set temperature being reset to a much higher temperature. The recovery time can be very long for large differentials between oven temp and set temp." In real cooking, you loose heat under certain circumstances. Open the door a few times and you are baking 100F below the set temp with no ability to recover. Another major point. It will not allow the temperature to be reset higher in a timely way unless you open the oven and induce the 150F degree differential and then you would have to take the food out while the temp goes up. "My Electrolux and KitchenAid ovens NEVER engage preheat mode once the oven is heated up and neither have any issues maintaining temperature." The little light that says "preheat" may not be on but my Elux is still rotating through the same elements as when it preheats . they cycle on and off according to need. The only difference is that the convection fan does not come on in bake mode or run high speed in the bake convection mode. Mine has a little picture showing which element is on and when. Whatever name tag you give this ability, this same mechanism does not exist in Capital Electric ovens according to their literature. Make of it what you will. "I know that you had a Dacor oven with issues maintaining temperature, but I don't think you can assume that just because the CC oven sounds like that oven, it will actually work like that oven." HaHa, that oven was what made me study ovens. I am not going by my oven at all, but again what Capital has written themselves. This is why it pays to read use and care manuals.

We purchased a Thermador 48” Dual Fuel range with 6 burners and an induction unit and double oven. Model PRD486WIGU. originally wanted a Wolf, but was told it was going to be about 9 to 12 months. Contractor suggested Airport Appliance who said they could get Thermador in 4 months which at the time would accomodate our remodel schedule. Turned out Thermador took 9 to 12 months, depending on the appliance, to deliver all appliances. Rude Thermador Customer service, hours wait to talk to someone, required 100% payment upon order. had our $25,000 whole time. Airport Appliance not much better. Lied about delivery times and deposit amount. Have had 3 service calls on range in first 6 months with burner issues. In my previous home we had a 48” Thermador cook top which we were pleased with which also influenced our decision to go with Thermador again, but never again! I dont recommend Airport Appliance either. Good luck however you decide.

Hood system requirements follow from the characteristics of cooking plumes, mainly their diameter, divergence as they rise, volumetric flow rate, and their velocity. The requirements somewhat vary with the design of the hood -- particularly the volume under the baffles that I will call the reservoir -- with horizontal baffle residential hoods representing one end of the configuration spectrum, and high pitched baffles within a commercial hood representing the other end. Pitched baffles seen in some residential hoods, such as Wolf Pro hoods, are an intermediate case that is closer to the horizontal configuration than the high commercial configuration. We start with the hood entry area. It should be large enough to encompass any plume from any burner and pan. Generally, a hood width of 6 inches beyond the range width is considered adequate for residential cooking. More refinement can be made from plume types and their divergence angles from the locus of potential pan areas, but for this message these details will be left unstated. So we get 48 + 6 inches as a desired width. Front to back depth should be a deep as available from residential units, although one can get custom/bespoke designs of almost any configuration. Assume that the hood aperture is 24 inches within a 27-inch hood (see Wolf Pro hood details). This hood, then, has an entry aperture area of 4.5 x 2 = 9 square feet and should be adequate up to 36 inches above the pans. (Note that I am working with a wall hood here and not an insert into a cabinet like structure. What is available for such applications may not meet what is desirable in hood entry aperture sizing.) We need the airflow to be sufficient to deal with entraining the plumes into the baffle flow. Worst case, this could be calculated from potential plume sizes and velocities, but given that residential hoods with low reservoir volumes cannot average plumes across the entire baffle space, some approximations are needed to achieve adequacy. The one I like that is derived, in a sense, from the Greenheck method (https://www.tagengineering.ca/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/KVSApplDesign_catalog.pdf) is to assume that the baffle gap area is half the aperture area, and that the effective plume velocity can be 3 ft/s (peaks to 1.2 m/s have been observed). This leads to a need for 180 ft/min in the baffle gaps, or 90 ft/min across the aperture. No one here building to that standard has yet complained about inadequate flow, so we will go with 90 ft/min. 90 ft/min x 9 sq. ft. is 810 CFM. That is the desired actual flow rate at full blower power. Blowers are rated for free air (zero static pressure) performance, and this will need to be about 1.5 times the requirement to make up for (at a minimum) baffle pressure loss. In this case, the result is a 1200 CFM blower. Poor MUA pressure balance may lead to a higher requirement. An internal blower will not be quiet at this level. An external blower just outside the mounting wall will be barely quieter, unless an even more powerful motor is used at reduced power. Best quieting with standard residential components is a roof blower with a large enough duct and an intermediate silencer. Note that internal blowers are limited by the space available, while external blowers can grow larger, but compatibility with hood controls could be an issue. Roof vs. in-line in the attic is a matter of many small details I don't have time to address. In common residential applications the level of grease deposit on ducting and external motor parts is relatively low, and what grease there is tends to rancidify and turn to varnish. If grease is deposited on a roof, UV sunlight will likely decompose it. A shaded wall mount might show grease on the wall that isn't decomposed, and which will need occasional cleaning. Commercial applications require grease capture at the blower, in addition to at the baffles. In general, I would expect that you would only need to clean the hood baffle assemblies (usually in a dishwasher) and wipe out the hood interior. I can't price different configurations. I use a roof blower. MUA in households is considerably more painful to deal with than in commercial spaces. There is the issue of yet more ducting, location of diffuser(s) to supply the air, possible additional blower and control system, filtering, and heating. If you search here on 'MUA" and 'kaseki' you should find a lot of messages dealing with different aspects of this that you can generalize from, or, if you find an impediment, ask about a specific issue. There are aspects of this quest that I can't answer for you. In particular, you will be working in a trade space that includes cost and aesthetics. High performance and good looks will not be compatible with low cost. You have to find the balance that best fits your circumstances.