Best not to tip the unit, but can be done. After uprighting do not turn it on for 8-24 hours so the oil can drain back into the system.

Yeah, I'm not too keen on tipping it either. I'll have to open up the back and have a look to see how I can get at it.

Just thought of a potentially good idea... I'm doing a total gut on the kitchen so maybe I can just cut a hole in the floor, support the rear corner of the fridge and do the repair from below like an oil change in a quick lube... Don't worry, I'm a structural engineer so I'll make sure things are safe. Might be a bit too weird of an idea though. We'll see. Have to look into sourcing the parts first.

Thanks.

Dan

Although you might be able to tip the fridge slightly and use cribbing blocks to hold it in position, this will not give you optimum access to perform the repair. It would also be a heck of a lot more dangerous. If it were me, I would probably just lay it on its side long enough to replace the roller, set it back upright and let it rest that way unplugged long enough for the oil to drain back into the compressor.

Just be sure to remove all of the contents, remove or securely tape the shelves, remove the ice bucket from the icemaker, and secure the doors either with tape or straps.

If you look at this page it will explain a bit more about the oil issue and how to select the best side to lay the machine down on.

A good appliance dolly with straps is the way to go. Get help, look at the compressor, pick the side opposite the discharge line and secure the dolly there. Tip the machine toward you with people there at each top corner to lower the fridge to the floor, quickly replace the wheel, then upright again and let it rest. Just don't forget to secure or remove those shelves and baskets. There is nothing so disheartening as the sound of breaking glass coming from inside your fridge.

Thanks for the information. I'm an appliance repair rookie...

So, just out of curiosity, is the replacement of the rear rollers generally all done from the bottom or do I need to get inside the "rear compartment"?

Dan

depends on the model - no idea on yours, sorry

I took a look at mine. It appears to be the same basic setup as yours. I don't think tipping will be necessary, but it depends on the type of damage to the roller.

Go to searspartsdirect.com, enter your model number to see an exploded view of the parts. The rollers are in the case parts fiche.

You will need to pull the lower access panel off of the fridge to get to the roller. You need to do that before you order the parts because there is no telling what is broken without looking first. There is a removable bottom to the machine that can be pulled off if necessary but you will have to tip the machine over to get to the bottom screws. Hopefully, you can get at it by just pulling off the rear cover and looking at the top of the roller.

Inside you will see a white nylon roller on a pin. Is the pin in place or broken?

The rollers protrude through the bottom sheet metal through holes cut in the sheet. The pins go through hole punched in the bent up flaps of the roller support. The pins are one use only, and are crimped in place. You will have to use a dremel or small saw (or maybe a hefty pair of sidecutters) to snip the crimped end off the pin to remove it. Prop that corner of the machine up on a book or something and then pull the pin, the old roller, and replace them both.

If the sheet metal bottom pan is damaged or bent then you will need to straighten or replace that. Sears has the parts for it as one source. I have not looked anywhere else.

Anyway, go take a peek and find out what is broken before ordering anything. You may have a perfectly fine roller sitting in the case with a broken pin, or you could have a damaged sheet metal piece that will require the whole pan.

Or, there could be an old beer can wedged in there gooning up the works. You will have to look. Best of luck with your repair.

I think I'd just slide a block with a heavy-duty furniture glide stuck on it under the offending corner. But I'm lazy.

Thanks a lot Mojavean! I'm going to have to take a look inside in the next day or two. I'll try to get a pic and post it here if things aren't obvious.

THanks again!

Dan

So I had a look at it last night. Took the rear cover off and snapped a few pictures. Turns out the roller pretty much split down the middle. After sitting there looking at it for a bit, I'm wondering just how easy it's going to be to replace.

As you can see from the pictures below, the left side of the pin is hidden below what eppears to be the fridge wall. Thats the side that has the crimped end on the pin. There is enough clearance below the compressor on the right side to slide a new pin under and into the holes. The question is how would a new pin get fastened into place on the left side? I would assume that the replacement pins aren't crimped. If so, they simply won't fit in the holes. Perhaps some sort of barbed washer will hold the pin on the left side? I guess I need to just go ahead and order a new pin and roller and see what comes. I guess if all else fails, a 3/16" bolt might work... Who knows. I do know however, that I'm not going to be taking the bottom plate/tray off after seeing everything that is connected to it. At least thats my plan at the moment...

Quickest fix, I think, is to cut the old pin out with a dremel or small hacksaw, (you can cut right in the middle of the old pin, easy to reach) then prop up that corner an inch or two, pop in the new pin and then see if you can peen the crimpable end enough with a screwdriver from the top or side to prevent it from sliding out. You might be able to get a punch or an extension in there enough to dent or cut that interior wall just a tiny bit but enough to get access in there with some vice grips to crimp the new pin.

A couple more options short of removing bottom pan:

Get a spring clip from the hardware store and snap it over the exposed (head) end of the pin, Just make sure the spring leaves from the clip don't interfere with the roller ribs.

Install the roller and pin then mix up a little dab of epoxy/hardener and some metal filings. Use a popsicle stick to dab around the head of the pin and the right support flange. Let it cure for a couple hours and it should hold the pin in place okay.

Get a cotter pin style pin instead and shove the pin in from the side with some needle nose pliers or a hemostat.

OR, just get a nice piece of duct tape and tape the head flat to the support flange and noodle another strip in and around the other end of the pin and try to get the tape to stick to the end of the pin and the floor of the pan. (The Tim Taylor approach.)

Thanks for the photos, by the way.

ps. If you do decide to pull the bottom pan, tilt the refrigerator toward the process line (little tube on left side of your pictures) and put a block in to support the compressor body against the interior bulkhead of the sidewall while you unbolt the pan for the repair. Same for any other heavy components affixed to the pan. Then let the refrigerator sit upright for as long as you had it sitting on its side before plugging it back in.

One more thing. There might be enough "flex" in the system to do this: Lean the fridge over on its side (the right side, when viewed from the front) then remove the screws holding that right side of the pan to the fridge's frame/walls. The idea is not to remove the pan, but just separate it slightly, enough to pop in the new pin and roller and get in there with some vice-grips to crimp the end of the new pin. Loosen, but do not entirely remove the compressor mounting bolts and then very gently see if you can pry the pan down just a bit. Enough to get in there and properly crimp the new pin.

OR, maybe there is another even more ingenious way to get this pony shod. Let us know how you did it when you get done!

Thanks for the tips Mojavean. I'm going to go ahead and order the roller and pin. Pin is on backorder for a couple weeks... Took the old roller to Home Depot at lunch and tried a simple 1/4" bolt. I would need to drill out the new roller slightly I think, but it would easily work. The shoulder on 1 2" bolt is just the right length. Perhaps I can just fit a lockwasher and nut onto it. Who knows. Either way, I'll get things ordered. I've got enough stuff to keep me busy until the pin arrives anyways. It's only $4 as well. Maybe it comes with some sort of locking washer doodad.. Not holding my breath that LG thought of that though.

Anyways, thanks!

Dan

Just to update things, the wheel is fixed. Ordered the wheel and parts from Sears (for a total of $35 here in Canada) and they arrived in like a week. Went to do the fix this past Saturday. Propped the fridge up at the rear with 1/2" ply pieces on both rear corners. Cut out the old pin with a hacksaw. Went to put the new pin in and of course, it's too big for the holes in the frame... Nice. So, off to Home Depot to find a suitable part to use for a pin. FOund a 3/16" thick "hitch pin" which it pretty much an oversized cotter pin. Cut off some unnecessary parts from it and it worked just fine. A dab of silicone to hold the new "pin" to the base of the fridge and everything is back and working just fine.

This repair also showed me just how dusty the fridge undersides get. Man, was it bad. GOing to have to take it out remove the cover and vacuum it out once a year or so from now on.

Dan

Hi Dan. Sorry I missed your followup on the 12th. Glad all is working. If any of the rollers break on mine I'll skip the pin and just go to the hardware store. Thanks for the update and sorry for not catching it when you posted it.
Best,
Scott