I think I have figured out what to do after doing ample research in the Tropicalesque forum. I will keep it inside by a window and keep it as warm as possible with light water until the outside low temps are consistantly over 45'F-50'F (about May 1stish). Please correct me if my plan of action is incorrect. I might as well stop by the grocery store and pic up some normal green Tora roots and start them now as well. Happy Gardening, 5 days till spring!!!!!!!!

Tankless propane vs tank style propane heater. the newer propane and natural gas tank waterheaters are required to be equipped with safety components which has driven the price of gas-fired tank style heaters up in the past couple of years. List prices around $800 for a 40 gallon good for a family of 2-3. Tankless already have the safeties in place and list for $1200 for the unit. If an "average" family of 3 uses 30 gallons of gas a month thru a 70% efficient tank style , the tankless at 84% efficiency would use 24.9 gallon of gas per month. At $2.50 per gallon of LP the savings per month would be $9.75. In 41 months the savings has paid the difference. The warranty for the tank is 6 years, the tankless exchanger is 12 years. The savings over an electric tank is vastly greater. If you burn Natural Gas, the cost to operate is even less. I hope all this helps. I have installed Rinnai, Bosch/Aquastar, Tagaki, Thermar, Saunier-Duval, Paloma tankless and Bradford-White, State, Rheem/Ruud, American, Master Mechanic, Sears tank style waterheaters for over 20 years. Rinnai excels over all the others. The vent is simple and the only caution is against a high mineral/lime content in the water. And the factory support is the best in the industry.

Kinda late looking at this, but hit the below energystar.gov website for gas storage tanks. I'm spoiled on tankless, but not everyone is. Here is a link that might be useful: Water Heater, High Efficiency Gas Storage

You can’t sign a change order for “wood floors” and then gripe about getting engineered with the whisper thin 1/16th veneer layer in a red mahogany color that buckles due to slab moisture content. You have to be a heck of a lot more specific. It’s the same with “EIFS cladding”. If you’re going to end up with something more than a slapped in spray vinyl coat, badly done, you have to be sure of what is being proposed and agreed to being done. People agonize and specify in their contracts which of 127 different white paints to use, or which exact marked stone slab, or which super special brand and color wood floors. What they should be delving into and specifying is the window construction, exterior cladding procedures, flashing techniques, and insulation material and practices. When you don’t care enough to be very specific about the really important things, that lets too much ambiguity into the contract. Ambiguity always benefits a builder who is inclined to take the easy or cheap way to do things. Describing this build as the superintendent being able to choose whatever subcontractors they want instead of having the builder’s approved list is far to loose and non standard. The builder cant be everywhere. But no builder that I know of would allow such a homeowner suggested technique and contractor insertion into a build without vetting them fully. There is something very not right about the contract and procedures on this build. Almost as if it’s being self contracted through one of the you builds or something. And the superintendent works for the homeowners. Because if there were an actual traditional GC involved in this, there would be zero question about the chain of command and who is responsible for making things right here. It’s the GC. Not the site superintendent. If the GC is the homeowners, that’s an expensive lesson to learn about self GCing.