I just posted on a another posting about Scratch B Gone. We just used it this week. Our cabinet installers scratched my hood when they installed the cabinets. They had an extra piece of the venting to practice using scratch b gone. It seems to have worked. It is very, very difficult to find the scratches now. I do think the stainless is a tiny bit more oxidized in color, not quite as shiny, but not anything anyone would notice, except for me. I think the adage of practice makes perfect probably made the difference. I had them show me where they used it on the practice piece before I let them use it on the actual hood.

I have a series of fine scratches on my KA SS refrigerator. DH and friend used an appliance belt to move it and the frig slid. I know of nothing that will remove them. I did try a little Bar Keepers Friend and it made it worse.

Let it get scratched! It looks great over time...that's what SS does. We put in the huge Franke pro sink (the biggest and deepest one they make), and I spent a month trying to keep it pristine. Then the first scratches happened from normal metal on metal contact and I quickly got over my scratch phobia. Part of the problem is the brushed #4 finish the sinks and appliance companies use. It's pretty fragile because you have delicate grooves running in one direction. It's very easy to scratch across the grooves. We have a Franke bar sink with a smooth matte SS, and it's still scratch free 2 years later. Our FP double ovens have the smooth matte iridium SS that FP offers, and it's also scratch and stain free after several years. A kitchen sink is meant to be used, not preserved like a piece of art. Kind of like your pots and pans...after several years of hard use, they will show the wear and tear. But it's a good thing to let that happen, and totally natural.

sarschlos: I remember your successful thread about your buffet and even noted down the steps, but you are right that I did not realize the importance of doing the buffing with the RAF--not beforehand. This has definitely been a learning experience which I intended it to be when I purchased these tables. I wanted to try on something else before starting on the DR chairs/table, though I've now come to realize this is a much more complicated project than I anticipate to DR set to be. I do think that there was no way I could escape needing to strip and refinish these tables--as there were different problems with each one. Seems the other table has fisheye from prior Pledge contamination and bobsmyuncle over on the woodworking forum recommends stripping that as well. Both looked to have a lot of lacquer/shellac that was probably incorrectly applied sometime in the past which led to these problems--and would also not allow the RAF to penetrate much, though I do notice improved results using the Murphy's Oil soap/RAF on the table legs (left table is the one that I used the RAF, right is not done yet): Even before refinishing, the stripped table looks so much better than either of the two tables before: Now I just need to figure out best way to refinish. Bobsmyuncle recommends first putting a couple of light coats of shellac to seal in the silicone (Pledge) contamination and the finish it. I'm wondering what type of stain/finish to use or even I need one at all as there still looks to be a lot of color in the wood and I don't want to darken the inlay. If anyone can recommend some specific brands to use, that'd be much appreciated.