A home inspector is a must for buying used houses, but IMO, finding third party contractors to review the work is a better bet. After framing is complete, get a structural engineer to review your house plan and the framing. This can be costly, maybe as much as $400-500, but they're qualified to opine, whereas a home inspector is not really qualified. Also bring a 4+ft level around and make sure there aren't any bows in the walls. Then bring in a seperate plumber and electrician when the rough-ins are finished. Most will charge about $100 an hour, maybe a service call fee as well (gas prices). You could also bring in an HVAC contractor. Get a seperate roofer to review. Maybe have the local rep for your window manufacturer come out and review that install. You might want to review the manufacturer's install instructions and watch a few being installed. I've listed over a $1,000 worth of "inspectors", here, so I understand if you call me crazy, but my order of competence is: Engineer followed by a Contractor followed by a GC followed by Building Inspector (only cause they're overworked and miss things) followed by a Home Inspector No offense to Home Inspectors, but most are a jack of all trades, master of none. Not what you need for a new construction phased inspection.

I think it really depends on your town and their building requirements/restrictions, the degree of difficulty involved in the process of getting appropriate approvals, and your specific lot/property and any encumbrances it may have. If you live in one of those places like Texas or parts of Tennessee, where getting a building permit takes about five minutes and involves little more than standing in line at City Hall with some plans and getting a stamp, then by all means, go this route. But if you live somewhere where the process is long and involved, and requires variances, board of adjustment review and critique, historical commission approvals, board of health approvals, possible state environmental approvals, or extensive site-work, you definitely want to go local. Two years ago, we were going this same route with a non-local company (factory-built modular shell, site-finished house), and got really far along in the process before we realized the truth of what henry said above. Although the company built great houses, and even used local subs for sitework, overall it was a huge cluster, because they had no idea about how extensive the approval process is in our town. It can take 6 months to a year or more to get a building permit in my town. This company was totally clueless. Bottom line here is, the houses in my town that get built and get the fastest approvals are the ones that are presented to and defended before all the required Boards by the local architects, local engineers, and local GCs. We thought we were saving money by looking outside of our "zip-coded" zipcode, but in the end, we actually wasted a ton of money trying (and failing) to go the non-local route. Before you even ask the company how they handle it, you should find out or know more about how your town handles the building permitting process. Your answer will be there.

Even if you have a case (which I find iffy) NO LAWYER IS GONNA TAKE IT! You are moaning about $5000 to fix the chimney. Suing will cost $25000 -100,0000 --- and all you would get is the $5000 at most. (And maybe not that as you could have backed out of the contract so all you would get is a few $$$ for the delay in closing if the seller is paying to fix it.) You do NOT get attorney fees on something like that. You are not gonna get 'pain and suffering'. I would never have taken you as a client --- unless you handed me a $100,000 retainer (expert witnesses, depositions all cost a lot) and singed acknowledging that you were going to spend more - a lot more - on attorney fees than you would ever collect to fix the fricking chimney or walk away from the house

Wow, Mary, I'm so sorry that happened to you! I think I read about your problems over on the manufactured homes forum, or was that someone else? My ex and I bought a stick built house in 1988 in Sacramento. A home inspection was, of course, required. A couple of weeks after we moved in, I happened to be in the backyard while hubby was showering. I looked over and saw water just gushing from the window sill and coming down the exterior of the house like a waterfall. It cost a little over $10,000 to fix, and was only that little because our new neighbor loved fixing things and had every power tool known to humankind, lol. It took a month of weekends for hubby and neighbor to fix it. We sued the home inspector and recouped all our costs plus punitive damages, which we split with neighbor guy. Good thing ex is an attorney! :-) Thanks for the advice, Chris. It looks like ~$300 is the going price, and in the grand scheme of things, I think it's worth it if, as Steph recommends, I find someone with experience in manufactured homes. In this case, the inspector doesn't have to please any realtors, sellers, or buyers. Since I've already bought the house, lived in it as a houseguest with my friends for the entire month of September, and know everything my friends know about the house, I can be very specific about what I want her to look for. As Chris said, it will be helpful for prioritizing. I'm hoping to refurbish the entire house top to bottom. I have an eight to ten year plan. I love a good ten year project! I started going back to college in 2007 and hope to graduate with my PhD in 2017--a ten year project, haha! (I'll have had 13 years of higher education! You'd think I'd know something by now, haha!) I have a list of what I think are priorities, and rough estimates of what everything will cost. My first project, next September, will be an asphalt driveway and carport. Because of my mobility disability and the necessity of using a walker, and because I can't get soaking wet entering/exiting my home and car, a dry, smooth surface and dry carport is a necessity before next winter. I'm going to replace all the electrical wiring and plumbing regardless of current condition, only because they're original to the house and will need upgrading at some point anyway. I'm also redoing all the floors because they're hideous, lol, so while I'm at it, I'll do all new floor insulation. There are no leaks, and I had the roof snow coated in October, which is guaranteed for ten years. So a new roof is down lower on the priority list, but still in the ten year plan. I'll blow insulation into the "attic" when I do the roof. The siding and skirting are much newer than the house and are in beautiful condition, so replacing them would be almost last on the list. The gut remodel of the kitchen/living room, major remodel of both bathrooms, and closet systems and cosmetic touch ups of the bedrooms will be in the middle, somewhere after electrical, plumbing, and floors, but before roof and siding. It's a ten year project because I'm paying as I go, in cash, as money becomes available. That's MY plan. I want the home inspector to tell me if my priorities are right or if I need to do something sooner rather than later. The yard will be an ongoing project. I've figured out how to do an aesthetically pleasing yard using various kinds of rocks, drought resistant plants, and ornamental grasses, for very, very little money and very low maintenance.