I also have a GE smooth top range that I bought in 1995. I have loved it. Just now the burners seem to be maybe not heating as quickly. Could be my imagination. I've been looking to replace it with induction (it will then be moved to the basement to replace the circa 1970s gold electric coil top GE that is down there working awesomely!).

Bpollen - if your food isn't as crispy or takes longer to cook, that is not because your oven is a gas oven, and not electric. That is a function of the oven quality itself. Don't advise people to avoid all gas ovens because of your personal experience with your 8-year-old Frigidaire. My friend is a chef in a very high-end french restaurant in New York, studied in Switzerland, apprenticed in Paris, and you know, he specifically bought an all-gas range for his home. Also, converting from all-gas to dual fuel means an electrician has to come run a line for the electric oven, an added expense, and electricians are expensive. By the way, you may want to replace your oven's ignitor if things are taking a long time to bake or roast. Ignitors all wear out after a while, it's normal wear and tear, and 8 years is a long time to go with an original ignitor. It is not an expensive replacement, and if you are handy, you can buy the ignitor on the internet and replace it yourself. To the OP, I am wondering why you must have a free-standing range. The reason I ask is that the back panel on a freestanding range cuts in on your usable cooktop space and crowds your pans. If you get a slide-in range instead, you will have the full depth of the rangetop to use for your pans. In any case, I advise you to read threads on this Forum; there are quite a few that give advice at different price points for all-gas ranges. Recent Thread about 30" Range Thread with Pics of Freestanding vs. Slide-in Range

So do you run a home nursery and going to have small, under 5 year old children in your house for decades that are not yours? So possible lawsuit situation, in which case I would just close off the kitchen completely. I seriously doubt there is any difference between an NXR door verse a Verona door. Most people simply make way too big a deal about this oven door temp thing. My guess would be like for about the past 250,000 years of human existence that if the child touches something hot they wont do it again. Also most burns that happen in the kitchen come from hot WATER/Liquids or from an "Open" oven door not the outside of a door. If you think you are going to child proof a kitchen you are dreaming, that would be like child proofing the middle lane of the freeway. Best thing is to keep them OUT of the kitchen altogether. I mean even our 2 year old Chihuahua has a chair that she sits on at the edge of our kitchen so she can see everything we are doing but stay safely out our way so she doesn't get stepped on or something dropped on her etc. Took us about 2 days to train her to go right to her chair and stay there. Lets hope that most children are at least as intelligent as a 2 year old Chihuahua. I was checking ours out last night again, my wife turned on the oven to 400 to preheat it and we went out to pick something up, so when we got back the oven was ready to go to bake some bread to go with the sketti. So it was pre-heating and being used at 400 for about 2 hours. I placed my hand on the glass and it was "warm" at best probably just over body temp so about 100, just below the glass was even cooler, less than body temp. The only parts of the door that were remotely hot was the crack between the door and kick plate and the very top edge of the door both areas are actually hard to reach. The handle was actually room temp at best so around 70ish degrees. I have a feeling that ADCO states this because NXR simply says what the oven door could possibly ever get to if left on 500 or maybe broil for hours on end, it could probably reach 150 on the top edge of the door.

If you enjoy cooking, do a lot of it, and don't enjoy the odors of meals past (nor want your guests to enjoy them) then you'll need a better exhaust hood and MUA. More: https://www.gardenweb.com/discussions/5161173/hood-faq Both M Miller and dan1888 are relatively correct. Removal of odor and particulate containing effluent is exactly the same for gas or induction. Removal of the excess heat and gas combustion byproducts of gas simply goes along for the ride - it does not necessarily create a need for greater exhaust capability. HOWEVER, if you have really anemic exhaust capability then you begin getting in to increasingly dangerous territory. While not removing all of the odors and steam isn't good, it also won't likely harm you very much other than friends not liking to visit. If too much from gas combustion isn't exhausted then you could, possibly, maybe be harmed. Keep in mind that most consumer hoods only remove about 50% of effluent (odors, steam, gas combustion byproducts, heat etc.) at best anyway. Also, all hoods perform less well without MUA since the lack of MUA increases static pressure on the supply side and thus reduces the blower performance as it tries to overcome this. If it were me I would certainly not want only a 300 CFM hood whether gas or induction nor would I want the further penalty of no MUA. I think I'd fight for 900 cfm for both hood and MUA as a minimum.