How are newel posts usually secured?

14 years ago

I've been going crazy trying to figure out what to do with these stairs since the builder didn't put in the bullnose and volute that we had discussed (but wasn't in writing). The straight stairs are very close to the front wall (36" from tread nose to wall) so I don't really want a newel in front of the first riser. I figured since a newel with a volute goes on the first tread, so could any type. Building inspectoer said OK to finishing the floor and moving furniture in b4 we put balustrade up - well, b/c of problems with the floor that took a year. Then I started looking for a carpenter to put in balustrade, 1st wanted permission in writing from inspector to put it on the tread, 2nd came out and said yes could do but never got back with quote, 3rd doesn't want to do it (but will do half newels on wall 4 steps up) even though we offered to rip out sheetrock from basement stairwell ceiling and have him put blocking in to attach newel to.

So how are newels normally secured to the floor, and does code allow them to be secured to tread any more? I didn't think this was an exception. How would it be secured to 1st tread/2nd riser so it doesn't loosen?

Here is my thread about newels and half newels on decorating, I didn't want to have to post all the pics again.

Thanks

Here is a link that might be useful: Newel post on open treads thread Home Decor

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Comments (7)

cynandjon
14 years ago
see if this helps.

Here is a link that might be useful: newel posts
brickeyee
14 years ago
To joist or blocking placed between the joists.

Attaching to just the floor will result in a post that wobbles after a short time.

When you have a 36-40 inch lever arm it does not take much force to work loose small fasteners in thin wood.
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mairin - I guess there's a chance they'd mess up the finished floor if they did that now? Anyway, I wanted the newel just 1 step up, same as it would be if we had a bullnose step and volute/turnout, they could still notch it out to snug up to 2nd tread. But 1st guy didn't want to do that, wanted permnission in writing from building inspector (and now 9 months later I'm even more reluctant to go asking), 2nd guy never got back to me after coming out for a quote and nodding his head yes the whole time, and my cousin who has been doing all the trim in my house (and building new window jambs and stools where the builder didn't do them right) says that he doesn't want to do it, even if we put blocking under the first tread. I guess when they're on the floor they actually are attached to a joist? I showed him pics of crazyhouse6's newel and he didn't think it would hold up to lateral forces (swinging), though it was fine for someone just pulling straight on it. So what do you think of my newel options? Which should I choose? It will be 2 weeks to get the oak contemporary newel that I posted first. The 2.5 x 3.5 blocks of cherry are here, just need to get cousin to cut and route them, I can put clear finish on and get them up but I don't know how they look with oak rail. My favorite is still the vertical volute with a newel somewhere near the bottom, but I haven't even thought of balusters (BC newel and rail with oak balusters?), and I need to find someone to install it.
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2ajsmama
Original Author
14 years ago
OK, so if I want to put a newel on a tread instead of the floor, just install 2x blocking under the 1" oak tread? Also secure to riser, would that be strong enough? I understand about leverage, just didn't know if a post was normally recessed into the floor as well as secured to joist/riser, and *why* it seems to be a big deal to put it on the tread instead of the floor (what if the joist isn't where you need it, you'd need blocking anyway), I can understand the tread not being thick enough to support it all by itself but we offered to rip out drywall underneath to install blocking.

Has the code changed to not allow mounting on tread? I've seen plenty of older homes with straight runs, post on tread. New homes are still building bullnose with volutes (and I assume blocking under the bullnose). So what's the difference/problem?
brickeyee
14 years ago
The bottom newel post goes through the tread and is attached the joists.

Mid run posts are attached to the stair carriage.

The old work is still solid since it was attached directly to structural framing and bolted in place.

Many of the jobs now are done faster & cheaper, rarely better.
2ajsmama
Original Author
14 years ago
OK, since I have a new modular with prebuilt stairs, I'll assume there's no blocking and we have to add it. Is this feasible? I'm not sure what you mean by "carriage" - only structural members I think we have are the stringers. In the basement there is a 3ft doubled up joist running perpendicular to the floor joists, parallel to front of house, 3'1" from rim joist. This *might* be in front of the bottom riser of the stairs above, which are 3'2" from wall. But since this is 2x doubled, I'm assuming you wouldn't want to drill down b/t them to bolt in a newel post. Plus I really want the post on the tread so 1) we don't mess up the finished floor 2) we have full 36" from nosing to wall to walk by and 3) I can't put a newel on the right side of the stairs anyway since the T-mold from HW to tile is right there. So what do I need to do to put a post (securely, not half-@$$ed) on the bottom tread?

Thanks
tooskinneejs
14 years ago
The last two pages of this attachment might be helpful to you...

Here is a link that might be useful: Building a newel post (pdf)
2ajsmama
Original Author
14 years ago
Thanks - that looks great, but I have a finished floor and want the newel on the first tread. Could we just notch out the 2nd tread and install blocking? Can't hide any screws with baseboard though on the riser.

How are newel posts usually secured?

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cynandjon

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How are newel posts usually secured?

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cynandjon

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