backsplash - can I tile on the cement board and then hang it up?

16 years ago

In our DIY bath remodel, we're doing a freestanding vanity (i.e., not caulked to the wall). In theory, I could cut a piece of cement board to the right size, drill holes to attach it to the studs, lay the tile, grout, etc., and then hang the tiled board behind the vanity. Or is there something wrong with this? Obviously there won't be a watertight seal because the vanity won't be caulked to the wall/tile, but would this work as a decorative backsplash?

I like this idea, because if we want to change the look of the bathroom, we could just take down that board rather than ripping down all the drywall.

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Comments (6)

shaughnn
16 years ago
Hello November,
One problem with that plan is that backerboards tend to be pretty flexible. Lifting and manipulating a finished panel into place is likely going to crack grout joints and might even affect the bond to some of the tile if it's especially small mosaic.
Another problem is that the perimeter of the panel needs to be taped and mudded into the surrounding wallboard to prevent the panel from moving independently of the wallboard and creating a perimeter crack.
Now that I've warned you of some of the hazards, "yes" you could do it this way if you are willing to deal with those potential failures.
Grouting the panel *after* it's been hung and using a color-matched acrylic caulk on the un-taped perimeter *might* improve the lifespan of the installation? Might not?
Best of luck,
Shaughnn
User
16 years ago
I was going to do the same thing...

I was going to do this with cheap tiles till I could afford the ones I really want. I was thinking that affixing the tiles to 3/8" plywood would mount better, then just use wood trim to cover the edges. Any thoughts on this as an alternative to backerboard??? As long as it is mounted into studs, there shouldn't be cracking.
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Good Morning Kind People! Thank you so much for all your nice words. I swear I only posted so there'd be a picture / info (vendor, prices, installation) about these tiles, but you all have just made my day. Thank you!!! My 4.5 year-old son has a rare and profound neurological disorder (Encephalopathy with Status Epilepticus during Sleep (ESES), the Penelope Syndrome). He was mostly toilet-trained, able to speak, and then fifteen months ago he lost both of those as well as the ability to understand language, concept of danger, learned memory, etc. Since we're back to diapers and we change his diapers in the laundry room, I wanted to make that space as chipper, colorful, inviting as possible. We also do A LOT of laundry (like many Special kiddos, he is a v. messy eater due to Sensory / fine motor issues -- doesn't bother me). Here he is "helping" with the tile install: He's chewing on a chewy tube -- that back of the jaw pressure feels good to him, similar to people who gnaw on pencils / chew gum. maggie and sabji, thank you for the compliment about my painting! It's actually fun and soothing to paint those squares. It's taking a while but since I'm enjoying it that's okay by me! sabjimata -- are you talking about the grid on the wall or the pattern on the floor? Both were done solely by me, and I want full credit! Full! Re the floor, I told Lundy, the owner of Villa Lagoon Tile, that I wanted no solid colors and lots of vibrant patterns. She told the warehouse, who picked and packed them up. It was a big, fun surprise as I opened all the boxes and laid them out in the garage as my "dry run." There were no black & white, no yellows, no greens, so I contacted Lundy and she sent me some more so I could get a better mix (for what I was after). Nate, our sweet tile helper, removed the washer and dryer and old vinyl floor, and then he and I dry laid the tile in the laundry room. I tweaked some things and then we laid them -- that "we" was more Nate than I, admittedly. But, I bet Lundy could and would design a pattern if that's what someone was after. She really is great. Thank you again everyone! They really are a fun, inexpensive, durable way to get some color / pattern (bright or subtle) in any space, and I really believe they'd be terrific in a kitchen. **Except they are slippery in socks.**
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As a Certified Red Seal Tile Setter the substrates (sub structure) and prep work are crucial elements and have a direct affect on not only the finished product but also the long term performance. Since this project involves a kitchen back-splash, there is no need to buy/install cement board of any type or a thing of the past called Green board. Like any tile job, everything must be level/square and solid first! Removing existing tiles and minimizing the damage to the existing wall board requires the right tools and a certain degree of patience. Personally, I have never seen cement board behind any type/kind of back-splash tile(s). Ceramic tiles are the most porous kind of tile and should be properly sealed as well as all grout lines. Also, in water areas, your grout line thickness should never exceed 1/8 of an inch. This helps in minimizing water penetration and also helps in the visual appeal. The idea is to showcase the tile not the grout lines! Secondly, and equally important is to try and get the grout color as close to the main color in the tile, that way it gives a visual appearance in being one large piece of tile, although it isn't! Solid color tiles should always be complimented with a slightly off color grout (i.e. white tile - off white grout). Your investment is in the tile, not the grout line, so it makes sense to showcase the tile! For DIY people, forget spending your time looking at 50 different videos on YouTubes or even worse, the advise you get from some hourly clerk at your local improvement store! It is to your advantage to buy your tiles at a place that specializes in tiles only and nothing else! They will and should supply you with everything you will need material wise to do your intended project. On another note, buy a few tiles first; take them home and place them where they are going to be installed ( tape them to the wall if that is where they are being installed); stand back an look at it to see if you like the color/size and the pattern. What any tile looks like in a showroom can look a lot different under different lighting conditions!
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jerzeegirl
16 years ago
I don't see how this would be a better solution than just popping the tiles off when you want to change the look and replacing them with new tiles. You don't necessarily have to take down the drywall if you want to change the look.
johnmari
16 years ago
I have seen plenty of mosaic artists do mosaics on plywood (exterior grade or marine), frame them prettily with wood moldings like a painting, and hang them using something like keyhole fittings, steel cleats, or flush-mount brackets. You could also screw them in place using heavy-duty wall anchors (I like the EZ-Ancor metal screw-in anchors sold at Home Depot) where the frame pieces would go, and glue on the frame pieces afterward. This approach has been suggested in many places for portability such as if you're renting; it was discussed on Apartment Therapy and I've seen it in several magazines and on an episode of Home To Go.

There are plenty of mosaic artists doing works on plywood backings and having no problems with cracking - go see the folks over on the Stained Glass and Mosaic forum here on THS. It can be done and don't let the naysayers get you down.
jerzeegirl
16 years ago
johnmari: Of course you are right about doing a mosaic on a plywood panel and hanging it like a painting on the surface of the wall, but I don't think that is what the OP was describing. From what I can glean from his description, he is planning to leave a cutout in the drywall, tile a piece of drywall with mosaics to fit perfectly into the cutout, and then screw said cutout into the studs of the wall. If the piece is not too big, it probably can be done because there wouldn't be much torquing when it's screwed into the wall. However, if the tiled area is that small, it's probably easier to just pop the tiles off and re-tile with a new design.
bill_vincent
16 years ago
Lifting and manipulating a finished panel into place is likely going to crack grout joints and might even affect the bond to some of the tile if it's especially small mosaic.

We won't even talk about the flexing that would occur due to expansion and contraction once in place, being that it's not attached every 16" OC to the wall (which would also happen with plywood as the base).

backsplash - can I tile on the cement board and then hang it up?

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shaughnn

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