No backerboard required on gyproc.

Our tile guy didn't use Backerboard. We have painted drywall behind our tile.

Ours is natural quartzite right on drywall, painted in some areas. Contractor said it wasn't an issue, so I didn't argue.

For the edging, you can try a product by Schluter. They have several profiles to choose from. They have both metal and plastic materials. I installed their aluminum Jolly that was the same (at least very close) color as my grout. In the photo, you can see where I used it to create a clean edge to transition to a SS backsplash behind the range. In hindsight, I should have done the backsplash first, but that's another story.

Here's where I used it to transition to to the dining area:

Here is a link that might be useful: Schluter Tile Edging

We researched this one before we did our backsplash. No backerboard required. Unlike a shower which is continually soaked by water, a backsplash just catches the occasional splurt of some liquid or other. The tile you put up with the sealer you put over it is more than adequate to deal with that amount of liquid. Our wallboard, like yours, wasn't in pristine shape. We patched all the holes, cut-outs, and dings, primed, and put up the tile. Be sure to seal with silicone where the tile meets the countertop.

On your other question about how to end, I'm a little stumped. We have an abrupt end like that (no glob of grout!), but it falls at the end of a counter where the refrigerator slides in. Because of its location, that squared end can't be seen from the side. Where is yours falling?

jscout, I will definitely check out your suggestion. And I'm glad to know from the rest of you that we really don't need the backer board.

suzannes1, one ends at the refrigerator, which wouldn't be a problem. The others end at counter's edge next to the dishwasher about 4-5 inches from the door facing (where mosaic would be at end of counter after the corner of back wall). That end would have the edges on the top and side. Another ends at the end of the counter/cabinets to the right of entering the back door. And then there are two places about 4-5 inches between the window facing and uppers by the sink. I hope that description makes sense.

I have NEVER heard of someone using backerboard over the rock for the backsplash area. As mentioned- it does not have constant water soaking like a shower. I have always tiled over the sheetrock (usually painted).

For the ends- You could use a finishing trim (there are many styles and finishes) or-depending on the type of tile, you could make your own bullnose. A good tile shop can knock down the edge of the tile to form a bullnose. It really depends on the type of tile and if the color goes through the tile.

Is it glass or ceramic or stone mosaic? Glass and often natural stone don't need any edging at all, because the edges of the tiles are attractive. Simply taking care to clean up the thinset and grout carefully should be all you need. If it's porcelain or other ceramic, the edge will often show the clay plus the glaze and look unfinished. In that case you will need some type of finish...

After reading many comments on this subject I will use "green" board instead of backerboard or Hardyboard to replace damaged old backsplash drywall. The paper came off the old drywall and some crumbled around the 70 year old electrical outlets and switches (that will be replaced and moved anyway). Had the drywall needed only minor repairs, I wouldn't even replace it. Is there any chance I can just patch the holes and repaper the drywall?

i want to install backsplash on drywall but i really don't like the idea if we change our mind years later removing tile backsplash will be a mess. is there anything smaller than 1/4 in cement board that i can use behind tile to protect the drywall?

No, not required, but if you ever change it, you'll most likely ruin the drywall removing the tile, or worse yet, have a very, very uneven surface.

thanks...but i could put up 1/4 in backboard if i wanted to prevent ruining the drywall correct?

It depends on the application instructions. Some backerboard, they want you to glue and screw it. But knowing that one day, you might want to remove it, I'd simply screw it (pardon my French), NOTE WHERE THE SCREWS ARE SOMEWHERE, so you only have to remove those tiles and screws, and be good with it. It's not a public gym shower stall that's going to be wet and funky for it's whole life.

Another answer is to simply patch any bad areas, prime it and install Greenskin and tile it. It's waterproof, gives good adhesion to the tile and is the thickness of a dollar bill. It's available from http://tiletools.com/us/greenskin-underlayment/ in small quantities.

thank you both...the current drywall is good. i'm afraid it i want to take off the tile in the future it will simply destroy the drywall underneath it. if i knew it would it would only need to patch it i wouldn't be worried. i think i'll just "screw it". knowing my wife she will change her mind sometime in the future!

Thank you.

We are updating an older double-wide and are going to install a subway tile backsplash in the galley kitchen The walls in that area are currently wood paneling (1/4”). Can I tile directly over the paneling or should I put up tile backer

Thanks

If the paneling is installed properly and in good condition, no problem.