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Wok cooking on induction

14 years ago

We had been all set to get a gas range top for our remodel, but now are taking a serious look at induction. Wok stir-frying is important to us (in our cast iron wok.) Any expereiences to relate - either pro or con?

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Comments (4)

Fori
14 years ago
If you don't mind a flat-bottomed wok, induction works OK. Cast iron is very good on induction.
59 Dodge
14 years ago
Gaggenau Wok Accessory Ring for Wok Pan WZ400-000
Your Price: $229.00
Did a lotta searching on the net , Induction Wok Cooking,
Induction Wok, cooking with a Wok on induction--etc etc etc, not much there. But I do see accessories for the Gaggenau induction cooktop such as the one I listed at the start of this post. There are also manufacturers that make induction units specifically for Woks, if you have the space and the money, You might want to look into those.
We have the induction and luv it, but alas we never Wok.
One suspects the fact that Gaggenau is offering this "Wok accessory ring(along with their own Wok), there must be a need for same---don't ya think??? There are other companies making these Induction Wok Rings too, and Miele even makes a "Wok Specific" induction unit---(Just in case you are one of those "Mieleophites"--ya I do have a Miele dishwasher.

Good Luck, I sure hope the Wok works out for you cause we sure luv the induction

Gary
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I believe that the feet of the Demeyere wok help to pass the energy up the sides, similarly to the Gaggenau wok/wok unit/ring (not sure that the Gaggenau ring/wok work (well) on other units). I have a Le Creuset cast iron wok which is flat on the outside and round on the inside. I think Lodge makes one too. The technique for using it is different than for using a traditional thin wok, which doesn't bother me, since, according to my Asian mentors, I'm hopeless with a wok anyway. :) The big problem with it is that the portion that contacts, or is close enough to the cooktop is so small that one can't use the outer, high power, part of the large double ring. The difference for cooking is that it takes a long time for the sides of the wok to heat up. I think it might be more practical to partially warm it in the oven first. Once the whole wok is actually hot it does work very well, at least by my limited abilities. The difference is that it does not cool fast either. There are a lot of techniques that involve cooling the wok and/or food by lifting, tossing, etc., that are out of the question. One could lift and toss, perhaps two handed for the weight, but lifting isn't going to cool cast iron, and while adjusting the setting on the induction will have an effect, it's going to take awhile to cool just as it took awhile to heat. If one does want to cool the food, a better way might be to add bits of frozen peppers, or even ice chips. Most induction units nowadays (including mine) do allow one to lift a pan long enough to toss the contents to mix them without turning off, so that isn't a problem. Again, it's not a one handed flick, but it works fine. For me, the whole point of the wok is the interior shape, so this works well for me. I also have gas (though not blast-o-burner), so I could have a traditional wok. I am no expert at wok cooking, though I know a lot more theory than expertise, and I'm not sure I understand all of the insistence for ever hotter burners. If one is stir frying, I get the point of fast heat recovery, and the need for a certain amount of power to make that happen, but one doesn't want the wok itself to get hot enough to scorch the oil. I was taught, by my home cook friends, not to get the wok too hot. This may be why being able to quickly lift and cook a thin wok is so important. Once it's good and hot, the cast iron wok doesn't have the quick cool down when ingredients are added, and the recovery with induction is pretty good. That is, there isn't the instant heat transfer of the traditional charcoal fire and hand hammered carbon steel, but the wok doesn't cool off instantly either. This is with a smaller, family sized portion, however, not a big ol' party heap. At some point the quantity of ingredients will overwhelm the heat retaining mass of the cast iron.
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Good review. Thank you! This is a big thing: ".... if you do opt for a weaker (blower/ fan/ motor/ in your) hood, be certain this hood provides a decent catchment area over your stove, ..." Fluid flow : : a batch of heated air rises fast; steam rises fast, and faster than heated air (because each H2O molecule is far lighter than O2, N2 and CO2 molecules) : steamy air, grease-particle air, smoke or whatever, it all needs to be captured. : once it occupies the volume of the catchment basin, it overflows. Same as a fishtank, pot, bathtub, swimming pool, etc, except everything is turned upside down. : lighter air HAS to rise. Gravity. This isn't "defying" gravity. : air is not compressible. (Unless in a closed system and force is applied) : lighter air, carrying smoke and microscopic grease specks, will overflow the catchment volume and spread throughout the next bigger volume (kitchen or house). -- unless your blower is pulling enough air to match the new air rising. Lessons learned: 1/ wok slow. Add new material bit by bit. Wokking slowly will avoid overflowing your catchment volume in your hood. 2/ a hood designed to look good without any catchment volume at all, is a hood designed primarily to look good: it needs to pull a huge flow of air to be able to catch a portion of the steamy greasy air that will slide past the flat surface and continue upwards to the kitchen ceiling and house. 3/ manufacturers and buyers don't think much about how they will bring new air inside the house. We must face the physical fact that every molecule sucked out of the house needs to be replaced. New air. Air is not compressible or expandable (unless pressurized). To me, principles at play are not close to those for light reflection. Fluid flow reminds me of drain plumbing because draining water means moving (displacing) an equal volume of air as the water moves downhill, and then bringing an equal volume of air from the other side to replace the volume left empty as the water moves farther downhill. "Venting in drains" is the hardest thing to understand, for most homeowners and renovators. DWV. After a few more years of screaming about the need for a systematic approach to providing new air to replace the air lost out the exhaust duct, we may see more solutions being packaged and promoted. How about a tube column of forced fresh air rising from a groove encircling the cooktop? It makes a curtain going from the countertop groove to the exhaust catchment basin. This, in an island cooktop, would contain the air rising from the wok, if the groove circled the entire cooktop, 360 degrees all around it. An air curtain which is going straight to the exhaust does not have to be conditioned air. Its humidity and temperature can be neglected, since this air is being sent to the catchment and exhausted forthwith. hth
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plllog
14 years ago
I think the Gaggenau wok ring only works on their wok unit, which is an individual (single, large element) high power unit, and very expensive.

There are a lot of wok units, both free standing and built in. Check The Induction Site for information on all kinds of units. Then check it on the manufacturer's website, since The Induction Site isn't always up to date. Most wok units have bowl shaped elements so that your wok sits into it, like on a fire. These are very popular in Asia.

There are two kinds of induction compatible woks sold for use with regular hobs: The ones that are flat on the bottom, and the ones that are normal shaped inside but have a flat base on the outside. The wok experts seem to prefer the cheap carbon steel woks for use over fires, but I haven't heard how they match up to the ones available for use with a flat induction unit.

Gizmonike (search on her name in this forum to see her setup) has a gas range with the Gaggenau wok induction unit. I don't know if she uses it for woking, however. She also has the teppan yaki, which I lusted over but finally decided against.

Even if you go with an induction cooktop, you could do a smaller one with a wok unit next to it, or something like that, if you're that serious about keeping your wok. I got a small induction unit and a couple burners of gas (but they're still awaiting installation).
oskiebabu
14 years ago
Cooktek makes a few built-in wok models, from 1800 watts, 2500 watts, 3000 watts, all the way to 3500 watts.

I've seen the highest priced 3500 watt unit at $1500 (Instawares), although it may be found less expensive elsewhere. The 3000 watt model is about $1400.

The following information is on the 3500 watt unit.

Greg

CookTek's MagnaWaveÂ Induction Woks give cooking professionals a new reason to run, not "wok" to their kitchens. Designed and engineered to maximize efficiency in a number of foodservice applications, they are particularly popular in display, or exhibition, cooking environments. With the increasing popularity of display cooking stations in the culinary world, CookTek's induction woks are proven to be extremely fast, safe, clean and energy-friendly tools for cooking professionals requiring accurate and even distribution of heating at precise temperatures.

Features:
Â Drop-in countertop design with stainless steel top, aluminum housing and control box, heavy duty electronic components, and specially engineered, high-impact, high-temperature, recessed glass wok bowl designed for use in commercial kitchens
Â Induction coil surrounds glass bowl to allow for maximum heating of induction compatible wok pans
Â Control knob for ease of use and automatic power or temperature control
Â SmarTempÂ Temperature allows for 20 power cook settings
Â Pan Maximizer feature achieves maximum heating rate of induction compatible wok pan
Â Microprocessor monitors vital components 120 times per second to check for overheating, power supply problems, and more. Cooktop shuts off and displays error codes enabling user to diagnose and fix minor problems
Â LED display for precise user feedback
Â Automatic pan detection allows for instant energy transmission
to pan, and no energy use when pan is not present
Â Automatic shut-off feature prohibits overheating
Â Drop-in cooktops and control boxes engineered
and designed for easy installation
Â Easy-to-clean glass bowl
Â Integral cooling fan keeps internal electronics cool
Â One year limited warranty
Â Made in the USA

Specifications:
Power requirements: 200-240V, 1PH
Power consumption: 3500 Watts
BTU comparison: 31,000 BTU
Voltage: 200-240V, 50/60Hz
Amperage: 15 amps
Power range: 100-3500W
Temperature range: 85 - 500F
Surface dimensions: 16.50" L x 16.5" W x 6.15" H
Cord length & plug: 6Ft., NEMA 5-15P
Control box lead length: 40"
Cooling clearance: 2 for front, sides and rear, 9 from bottom

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