This is probably one of those "you're not going to believe it" replies. I used to run IE8beta with XP3. Now IE7 with XP3. I'm sort of a news junkie and a fan of CNN. I "use to" have their site as my home page. A couple of years back I began getting stack overflow "0" popups. I worked rather diligently trying to resolve the problem. After a month or so of constantly having to delete the irritant it stopped. The time coincided with when I switched my home page to AOL, Google,(can't remember why) or other. Even today when I mistakingly access a CNN hyperlinks it bring with it a stack overflow "0" popup! It never happens anywhere else. Yes, it is difficult to believe. I ran a CNN desktop search back then and even more recently. Nothing. I sent CNN an e-mail. No response. Now I just rely on the TV for my CNN news. Regards, Gene

what are- amp draw, refrig line sizes and linear length,(i dont think ive EVER seen a 15ft lineset) indoor coil size, type of metering device? if there was a drier id say it might be installed backwards or you didnt purge with nitrogen as you welded your joints and got some trash on the screen at the metering device. (btw you should really put a drier on it) sorry bud, but not installing a drier kinda screams inexperience to me as well. or as daddo said maybe you stacked metering devices and the piston needs to be removed. when you opened the first service valve on the unit did you notice if the other, still-unopened, valve's gauge pressure came up close to equalized? does the unit pump down when you close the liquid valve? if so, does it pump down quickly? you would think a 2.5t system with 15ft of line would pump down in a jiffy. did you use rigid copper to tie the unit in? if you did, did you take the rubber plug out of the end of it? (stupid question but ive seen an experienced guy in a rush leave the plug in it and melt it as he welded the joints creating a MESS and restriction.) I havent seen it first hand but have heard of moisture freezing up near a txv partially clogging it. 500 micron is prefered, not 250. you may not have enough refrigerant in the system. "116in of refrigerant"? is that some kind of metric system im not aware of? do you mean 116oz? who knows, its hard to troubleshoot over the net. keep looking, youll find the problem. either that or call a different tech that CAN be there with you to offer a different perspective.

It sounds like the primary drain is clogged, and the secondary drain is working as designed. The discharge is put in a very visible place to provide an indication the primary drain is not working correctly. Find the end of the primary drain and use a shop vac to suck the line clean. A wet rag wrapped around the shop vac line and primary drain end will make an adequate seal in most cases. You can also snake the line, or gain access to the pain inside the unit and try compressed air to blow it clean. The shop vac usually does the trick though.

Brickeyee, how far out do I brace? And how many joists? 1) Would I brace between 3 joists under the w/d set (2 rows) or would I include a joist on each side of the area too (4 rows). 2) How many brace sets per row? Maybe 2 per row spaced at 16" (until about about 36" out)? Zagut, I always worry about the load:) Thanks for the info about the water. I have easy access to the space and can run a line down to the basement from the area. I have seen plastic trays at Lowes for the purpose of setting the washer on to. There is a place to cut a hole for a drain. Is this just supposed to be a garden hose? Or does the plumber PVC a nice drain in place. There is a large drain along my basement wall that the sink and shower tie into currently. It looks like it would be easy enough to tie a washer overflow drain into it too. Unless that is a no-no because of a need for a p-trap or something.