I know that they are removable. No tools are involved. You flip a lever down above the hinges and somehow the door comes unhooked. The appliance repair guy did it, but I wasn't paying close attention. This may be what's wrong. I'd call my dealer or Bluestar directly. If it defective, you'll want to get parts and or service going. Good luck.

You've done good so far. There are a couple terms we need to change. The units on each side of the door are called "sensors" and they are working the way they should. The actual receiver is inside the motor unit and could be our problem. Do you have only the one remote hand unit? I think you referred to the hand unit as the opener. You say the green light on the opener lights up when you press the button on the hand unit. Do you mean the hand unit or the small green light near the learn button? Post back and we will go from here.

What is a "local safety officer"? What do you mean "a bunch of back and forth" with your "local safety officer and Wolf"? What prompted you to use your CO meter to test the levels? They are employed by our BC safety Authority who are the regulators for all regulated work, gas and electrical and such. As a licensed gas fitter I hold my ticket through them and they are the final say when it comes to appliance safety. Permits and approvals for equipment go through them. I chatted at length with him about the stove and he did agree we can’t do anything because it meets ANSI standards being below 800ppm, but he did say he wouldn’t have it in his house. His advice to me was if Wolf won’t do anything to then adjust the burner input by under firing the appliance to bring the CO back inline. I went to Wolf with this information and they said ‘based on your requirements I don’t think Wolf products will be right for you, would you consider a buy back’. Checking CO is very common here in Canada especially when commissioning an appliance. I didn’t mention the CO alarm going off because it never went off, however it did show peak levels in the 15-19ppm range after cooking for a short period of time. Enough to make me concerned with a pregnant wife and 2 yr old. This is what will happen if you in a room where the CO levels are 800 ppm. The ANSI standards are referring to the CO levels in the air coming out of the range vent. 800 ppm air coming out of the vent does not translate to a room concentration of 800 ppm. Especially if you have your ventilation on. Now, if you were getting 250-300 ppm where the cook was standing, that indicates a concentration of way more than 800 ppm out of the vent, and thus a violation of ANSI standards. Either way, those readings were way too high and Wolf's response was poor. Yes, I agree, somewhat. The stove should never be operating at the ANSI levels, your house would build up to a dangerous level of CO over time ie. When cooking a turkey for hours. Our utility will actually shut down any gas range over 540ppm during normal operation. Also they shutdown any other appliance if its over 250ppm while operating. I agree we need ANSI standards but as new homes get built tighter and with less makeup air having a cooking appliance pumping 800ppm at the vent/flue is insane. Consider this regulation was put in place in 1926, buildings have changed considerably since then. So, what happened when you tried adjusting it? Was 250-300 ppm the lowest it would go? That would surprise me, I have adjusted several gas ranges and have usually been able to get them down to 30-40 ppm from as high as 500 ppm. I knew this question would pop up, but yes I went through the full range of what is reasonable on a brand new appliance. Below is what I went through, to try and reduce the CO: Tested inlet pressure, adjusted within 1”wc of manifold pressure. ‘Wolf recommends having inlet pressure within 1” for proper operation’ – no change Checked flip top regulator and it was set to natural gas Checked manifold pressure on stove it was at 5”wc Verified orifice was correct as per spec sheet supplied by Wolf Adjusted air shutter, no change was actually higher and this was the lowest I was able to get the stove to run at CO tests were done after 10-15 minutes of operation and the burners were warm Clocked meter to verify burner input is correct Verified no blockage in burner tube Verified all secondary air ports were free and clear House is still very drafty, so not a lack of air within the house The only thing I never did was under fire it, as I didn't want to go down that road on a brand new piece of equipment. Wolf blew me away with their service and willingness to make a customer happy. From a cooking standpoint however, it will be Bluestar for us.

We've had our 30" BS RNB for eight or nine years now. I have used the oven extensively and find that it is very reliable. It does exactly what it's supposed to do; nothing more and nothing less. I like working with it, other than the fact that it takes really long to pre-heat. The fact that it is so predictable makes it a joy to bake with. I usually store my large Fibrament baking stone in the oven and don't take it out when I use the oven. I don't think it makes a huge difference for everyday use, but it might contribute a little to my overall very positive impression of the oven. In general though, most ovens benefit from a) more thermal mass, and b) dispersal of thermal energy. So, I almost always keep either a baking stone or at least a cookie sheet on the bottom shelf of any of the ovens that I have ever owned. Having said that, we now have a Miele combination steam oven and a Miele SpeedOven in addition to the RNB. I find the SpeedOven isn't much of an alternative. I am happy that I bought it as an extra oven that happens to use the same space as the microwave; but I am not sure the cost is quite justified by the benefits. So, don't buy, if money is tight. On the other hand, the CSO is a huge improvement over anything I have owned before. It preheats much faster than the RNB and the fine-grained moisture control is awesome. The smaller cavity size is rarely an issue. I now use the CSO for everything. The only downside is the rather anemic broiler element. These days, the RNB only gets used if I need a good broiler. None of my other appliances even come close.