Hi blueseatx, I don`t know anything specifically about the 455 but I can offer you the advice that opening the outlet of your muffler to around 80% of the exhaust port area of the cylinder and then enrichening the air/fuel mixture will make your saw run stronger, cooler, and longer. When opening the muffler make sure that no internal baffles obstruct the exhaust flow. How do I know that muffler mods will work on your saw? Because they work on all modern saws because the manufacturers are intentionally backing up the unburnt gases in the exhaust in an effort to burn them and lower emissions. According to the US EPA, up to 30% of the fuel charge drawn into a two stroke engine is expelled through the exhaust without being burned. There is also a high likelyhood that your saw is adjusted on the lean side which not only reduces it's emissions but also it's ultimate power and will make your saw run hot. This is how a lean sieze happens in an extreme case and in less extreme cases you just have accelerated internal wear to the engine. Enriching the fuel/air mixture will involve opening the hi speed needle on the carb. This may require that you remove the screw travel limiters, make the adjustments, and then re-install the limiters or you may do as many others have done and trim the limiter ears off the screws for complete adjustability. Trimming the ears is also considered tampering with emissions controls so be forewarned that if you do this and then need to bring your saw to a dealer for a repair and he notices the altered ears, he will be required to place new limiters on the saw. Canguy, isn`t the 455 built similar to the 340/345/350 in that it has a horizontally split crankcase? Unless it has a seperate cylinder it will not be a good candidate for engine modification. I have a modified 575 that was improved dramatically but it still is not as powerful as a good 372. Maybe if I do some intake work it will improve. EHP can be found at his own site now, ehp.com. There is a link on his page to chainsawperformance.com where you won't find any fighting or nonsensical suggestions on how to modify your saw with a nail file, just guys who are building, racing, and working with true hi performance saws and chain. You will also find that many of the Timbersports and G.O. Games guys are posting there. Check it out.

There is this thing called a lawnmower. You probably already have one. It's job is to cut things down close to the ground. Since it is so effective at killing plants that can't handle continous cutting, it doesn't really seem to be recognized as one of the best machines ever invented for controlling unwanted plants. It will get rid of the loosestrife. It will also significantly control the mint, though it is much better at growing under the cutting blades. Any plant that either cannot handle continuous cutting, or cannot grow close to the ground can easily be controlled with the mower. This covers almost all of the truly bad plants. Compared to poison ivy, rosa multiflora, bush honeysuckle and phragmites, dandelions are not a concern.

On a 6006, the wire from the electrical panel or some other control box goes to screw R and is either directed to screws B or W depending upon the temperature of the boiler and the dial setting. On a temperature drop below the setting, the power is applied from Screw R to screw B, which is usually hooked to the burner and the burner turns on. At the same time, power to screw W is dropped, shutting off the circulator. If I only wanted to use the circulator when the temperature was above the dial setting, I would only use the W screw with a wire to the circulator.

From the desperate folks do desperate deeds department: I wouldn't want to warrant that defeating those fasteners will allow you to lift the cabinet bottom, but if you think it will and want to try it, you might try cutting the panel around them with a slightly larger hole saw. Use a high quality one with a drill bit you can remove from the arbor. With the bit still in, cut a hole in a piece of 1x scrap stock. Fasten the scrap stock to the cabinet bottom over the area to be cut, using drywall screws or something similar (you'll have to patch the holes later). Remove the drill bit from the hole saw and have at it. The scrap will stabilize the hole saw so it won't run amok without its drill bit. How to re-secure the cabinet bottom later will be left as an exercise for the reader. :)