I don't think that clumpers are immensely powerful and hard to contain. Admittedly, B. fungosa does seem to spread a little further than most clumpers, but it will stop when it runs up against the retaining wall...unless it's a very poorly built retaining wall. I have a large B. fungosa and it's been planted right next to my house for years. It hasn't done a thing to the foundation and I don't expect it to. However, if you don't want the clump to get larger in diameter, there is no option but to take out some of the growth.

If you get early blight, or any other fungal or bacterial disease every year, then you need to take preventive measures. After having early and late blight savage my tomatoes last year, I'm taking some precautions this year, including: 1. Disease resistant varieties. I don't think any varieties are resistant to blight, but I still wanted resistance to other diseases. And if a plant is weakened by any disease, it will be more susceptible to blight. 2. Generous plant spacing for good air circulation. 3. Plastic mulch and soaker hoses to keep the foliage dry. 4. Pruning. I'm using two strategies. First, when the plants were about 3 1/2 feet tall, I removed all the leaves on the lower 12-14 inches of each plant, since these typically contract blight first. I sprayed all the fresh cuts with fungicide as a precaution. It may be coincidence, but the plants started to bloom heavily after the cutting, so maybe stressing the plants kicked them into the blooming phase. Secondly, I pinched off enough suckers to facilitate air circulation. My plants all have 2-4 main branches, but on the first 3 1/2 feet, my plants are open and airy. Above 4 feet, I quit pinching off suckers to form a foliage canopy that would shade the tomatoes. Of course the plants are sort of top-heavy, so I've got them well-supported. 5. Good fertility and consistent watering. Healthy plants that aren't water-stressed are less susceptible to disease. 6. Chemical prevention. I spray with the lowest recommended concentration of chemicals every 7-10 days, depending on rainfall. To prevent any resistant disease strains from taking hold, I'm alternating every two applications between a mancozeb + liquid copper mix, and a chlorothalonil + liquid copper mix. 7. Insect control. Insects are vectors for many diseases (not sure about blights), and they weaken the plant, increasing the risk of disease. I've only sprayed with BT so far, and have not observed any pests at all on my tomatoes. But if any insects do show up, they will rue the day they decided to feast on my plants. Insecticides on hand (in order of escalation): pyrethrins/rotenone, permethrin, and malathion. I tried using some neem earlier this summer, but suspected it stunted plant growth (and some research indicates it does partially block stomas), and it was nearly useless against an early aphid infestation of my beans. I've also got some carbaryl, but it seems to kill more beneficial insects than any other insecticide I've tried, so I treat it as a WMD of last resort.

From the desperate folks do desperate deeds department: I wouldn't want to warrant that defeating those fasteners will allow you to lift the cabinet bottom, but if you think it will and want to try it, you might try cutting the panel around them with a slightly larger hole saw. Use a high quality one with a drill bit you can remove from the arbor. With the bit still in, cut a hole in a piece of 1x scrap stock. Fasten the scrap stock to the cabinet bottom over the area to be cut, using drywall screws or something similar (you'll have to patch the holes later). Remove the drill bit from the hole saw and have at it. The scrap will stabilize the hole saw so it won't run amok without its drill bit. How to re-secure the cabinet bottom later will be left as an exercise for the reader. :)

" I live near the PA/MD boarder, is there any chance I could get some grass seed to take this time of year? " It's highly unlikely. While we're going into a temporary "historic cold snap" of 70 or so, June's about to descend on us. Wait until August 15 or August 23 to seed. While I do see grass in the mix there, it's hard to say how much. Until you kill the black medic, we're not really going to know what state your lawn is in. Probably not very good, but it's not possible to begin improving it unless you start somewhere.