supply:
use flex hoses

drain:
The image linked to above has the P trap unrealistically high.
Your P trap will be more in the way so your problem will be worse than the image shows.

Put a tight elbow under the sink tailpiece to route the drain line to the back wall (See LK35L for a kitchen size example), and another bend to send the drain line down to the p trap which will remain at the same height as previously but now be located close to the wall. This is legal. (See LKAD35 for a kitchen size example of both bends.)

Then hide both drain line / P trap and supply lines with stack of towels.

Ikea sells this kind of "tight elbow drain" plumbing under their bathroom vanities that have full size drawers under the lav. You might find it on the web or in showrooms. You might end up buying a whole vanity from Ikea, complete with their plumbing kit that comes with it.
I searched Ikea using "bathroom+drain" as key word and came up with images:
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/search/?query=bathroom%2Bdrain

I've looked into this topic a lot. Most people who know a lot about plumbing disagree with everything that I have written above until you show them it is permitted under the plumbing codes. It is something they have a hard time figuring out because the pipe being lengthened is prior to the trap, and thus prior to the "Trap Arm" in DWV plumbing.

It would be a crying shame to spend $627 on a vanity, not to mention another $1k or so by the time you acquire a vanity top, sink & faucet assembly then have it all cobbled in by a makeshift handyman solution such as recommended above.

First off all, even though the afore mentioned solution would meet code the introduction of the two 1/4bends on the sink tailpiece would severely hamper the velocity of flow and thereby increase the risk of clogs in the drain line.

Second, while the use of flex lines, or even the metal braid covered flex lines may be quick and easy to install in an exposed location they stick out like a sore thumb and shout "cheap & amateur", not to mention that despite their advertised claims, they are in fact the least reliable type of supply lines. In fact, in most areas where I have worked they are prohibited anywhere except in single family dwellings.

Go to any reputable Plumbing Supply house and they can get you the tailpiece and P-trap fittings in polished Chrome, brushed chrome, Gold, polished copper, brushed copper, polished brass, brushed brass, polished bronze, brushed bronze, oil rubbed bronze, white enamel, black enamel and sometimes in red and blue enamel, not to mention some other specialty finishes.

For the supply tubes you can get 3/8" brass tubing that is plated with the same finishes as the drain piping. Installing the brass tubing takes a bit of skill to install, but nothing that is beyond the ability of an intermediate DIY'er. To Install you would need a tubing cutter to cut the tubing to the correct length and perhaps a tubing bender to make any necessary bends in the tubing. The tubing is then connected to the faucet by means of a compression washer, friction washer and a cone washer ( all of which normally come supplied in the faucet assembly.)

The line is then connected to the angle stop by means of a compression nut and tubing ferrule, which is also supplied with the new angle stop valve.

I have on occasion found the specialty finishes on the shelf at Lowes, Home Depot or a local hardware store, and if they don't have what you want in stock, they can order it.

http://www.terrylove.com/forums/showthread.php?1934-How-durable-are-flexible-supply-lines&p=8709&viewfull=1

lazypup is not a plumber. Neither am I.
Ikea sells the drain as a separate item. Hmm.

One more alternative, if you do wish to keep the p trap positioned in space directly underneath your sink drain hole, is to get a "bottle trap". Of course someone might tell you that is not optimal. No big deal.

Here is a link that might be useful: about bending hard supply lines, or using flex lines

Um, Lazypup IS a plumber, and quite a knowledgable one. And he's right. Using flex supply lines on an exposed plumbing vanity looks like crap. If you're gonna do the exposed plumbing bit, a decent plumber can take care of everything to where it matches and looks good with no issues. David's solutions just prove that a little bit of knowledge can be a really dangerous thing! LOL!

cinnamonsworld,

A polished brass threaded tailpiece will run you about $25-30, that might be provided with the drain. A trap assembly $50-$60. The basin supply tubing will be roughly $10-$15 each. The supply valves can be $40-$60 depending on style. So you can easily drop $150 for a basic setup. You can probably shop a little less than those prices, or you can go multiples higher.

There are kits available. I've never used a kit.

I highly recommend plumbing pedestals and consoles with a matching metal finish.

Oh lordy. I got two somewhat snarky emails about the link I provided. The link I provided is to a satin nickel set. For those of you who can't get there on your own, here you go.

Best to all.

I don't know where Davidro1 gets his information, but for the record I am a certified " Residential & Commercial Plumber"

lazypup, You're THE strongest person on plumbing that I've read on any of these forums.

Not sucking up. Just telling the truth.