We used 3/8" glass for our guest bathroom shower (the only bathroom for which we got a glass enclosure). We "up-charged" by using starphire/starfire glass to preserve the whiteness of the tile when looking through the glass, and we added Clear Shield (fabricator applied product vs Shower Guard, which is done as part of the glass manufacturing process). Even though the shower doesn't normally see much use beyond a week or two each yr when my parents come to visit, we have hard water, so an ounce of prevention gives us piece of mind (that the glass is protected against clouding/etching). We keep a squeegee and after shower spray in there when the shower's in use as well. We also went with a slightly taller enclosure height; the clips would have hit right in the middle of our border tile mosaic at the lower height. The 3/8" thick glass feels very sturdy, and substantial, not flimsy or rickety in the least. DH and I used that shower exclusively while our other bathrooms were being reno'd, and we were very happy with functionality of the shower door/enclosure.

Here are links to some of the earlier threads . . . http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/build/msg0708180218905.html - unique/favorite features in your build.... http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/build/msg051803107471.html - Things you couldn't live without or wish you had added http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/build/msg012331272427.html - What things did you find needed adjusting or changed? http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/build/msg052337148911.html - is there anything you wish you had done http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/build/msg1011400927581.html - What about your new build makes your life easier; what doesn't ? http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/build/msg0913570232282.html - Brands/Products That I'd Use Again http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/build/msg0321442732113.html - Share your best sites for deals on supplies! http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/build/msg0818041222629.html - To help others - Things I would do different and things i love! http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/build/msg021705141306.html - Things I wish I'd specified on my plans http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/build/msg0120301431285.html - It's been two years...what I've learned, would change, etc... http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/build/msg0901543214301.html - Biggest Mistakes? http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/build/msg0521381417863.html - Help!!! Have I forgotten anything? http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/build/msg122305046544.html - designing electrical in house http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/build/msg0316075322256.html - doing whole house audio

Or MAYBE install shallow swales on each side of main sidewalk. 1) Use a string level to make sure you have a positive grade from one end of main walk to the other, and can outlet water at low end with no problems. 2) Grade ground to slope sides gently to bottom of swale, especially making sure side next to main sidewalk slopes gently away from sidewalk for two to three feet. 3) For the short walks coming from the units perpendicular to the main walk, you'll need to bore under them and install 3 small diameter PVC pipes in series under each. These pipes should be about 10' long. 4) Slope ground away from perpendicular walks about 3 to 4 on each side to inlet and outlets of the pipes you just installed (to keep folks from stepping into a drop off if they happened to step off the walk. Also looks better). 5) Add gravel to discharge end of pipes to prevent erosion. Could also add larger rock to inlet ends to help prevent clogging. 6) Grass the swales, or create rain gardens with appropriate plants for function, beauty and to treat runoff. This should stop ponding in low areas unless there's an area of the walk itself that's depressed. If so, that section should be removed and relaid. NOTE: in large storms swales may fill and top walkways temporarily, depending on number and diameter of pipes under perpendicular walk, width and depth of longitudinal swales, etc.

If your talking about the wall butted against your tub it is a common issue. Tile person should run at least on row of tile or extend tile 2-4" beyond tub. They should also use waterproofing on that wall extending again onto that wall. The lower section of that sheetrock extending from the tub should be waterproofed about 12" from the tub under the molding. The molding itself should be waterproofed or painted with an oil or exterior paint on ALL sides. The corner at the base of your tub is one of the worst water collection spots in a bath and often overlooked in waterproofing. Water pools on tub corners and migrates down. If caulking from tub to walls fails or is done too soon water will migrate behind the caulk into the wall. Most color matching caulks are not silicone. Water migrates down from the thinset drying. Tile persons caulk next day and that moisture gets trapped behind the caulk which isn't water rated. The caulking fails or looses its adhesion. The water then migrates to the area your complaining about. It is not uncommon that when the caulk from the tub top corner to the floor along that wall is cut water will literally run out as it gets trapped. They sell corner guards for tub corners. Check the caulk and redo if needed. Unfortunately once sheetrock gets wet it can mold and deteriorate. It can only be permanently fixed by replacing.