Yes I have been short of time lately, but after I just saw your latest questions, I took only a moment to walk over to my row of trees and check thier measurements. The fence behind my trees appears 10 times worse that the one in your photo. My trees are planted on about 9 foot centers and I only did one row of them. The bottom four feet height on then averages spreads across their widths of at average is 5 feet all the way around them. For the distance from the two intercecting fences inside corner to the end of the bad fence my trees are distacting the view from is about 50 feet long. I have 7 GGs planted along this length. the GG's trunk nearest to the inside corner of the intercecting fences has a trunk only 4 feet away from the corner. the 6 other GGS have an 8 feet distance I can measure from trunk to trunk, But the planting holes when first dug were centered at almost 9 feet distances. The lower 4 feet of the trees are the most full and there is still an average of a 2 foot gap between each of the trees that needs to fill in before the trees will make a solid screen along that height of the 6 foot tall fence. Since I stoped giving my trees osmokote even before last year the rest of the trees growth is not as thick or wide, so there is even more view of the top two feet of the ugly fence. This is the reason why I suggested it is best for you to plant two staggered rows. That way you will have a better full screen more quickly than my trees. the neighbor's two story house is no more than 4 feet on the otherside of the ugly fence. The tops of my trees have grown about a foot higher than the bottom of their second story windows. I measured a 4 foot distance from the fence slats to the trunks of my trees, and I could still easily, with out much tree branch displacement, walk behind my trees and the fence when I came up with the 50 foot measurement for the lengh of fence that the lower 4 feet of this line of trees currently cover. One other note is that I planted only 18 inch tall trees to start. They are fairly well protected from the prevailing north/south winds because the 2 story house is directly south of them and there is a large scarlet oak tree directly north of the first 3 from that inside corner I discussed above. I live on a corner lot and my house faces west, but the fence in question is along along the east facing back yard/south side yard, and it stretchs westward to about half the depth of our south facing side yard. So my GGs get plenty of afternoon sun, especially in the summer and before they grew so tall got a lot of morning shade. I only went to all this description to illustrate how protected they are from drying winds. This is so effective for then that my trees have never taken on a bronzy cast that many people report their GGS do in the winter. My trees are also planted on a slight rise where the builders of the two story house so close south of my trees never did a good job cleaning out the builders sand they uses when installing a narrow sidewalk between that house and the privacy fence. The growth I reported with my trees has all been affected by theses issues I have just discussed. GGs which struggle will slow draining soil that stays wet longer will grow only half as fast as mine have until they get well established, which could take up to 4 years. Some of them might even die during sudden dry periods and have to be replaced. Also trees planted at 6 feet tall might take a full 2 years before you see much top growth out out them. That is because they will be using this time to develop a better root system which can support the 5 foot yearly growth these trees do while they are young and once they are established. The trade off you get with this is while they are waiting to develop a larger root system and not growing much in height, they will be doing a better job than mine did concerning the thickening of their trunks and also thickening the density and spread of their branches. My trees did not have to that root size catch up so they started showing nice top growth in the first year they were planted. It took them all this time though to develop an exceptionally good density and branch spread over the lower 4 feet of them. If I had kept spreading Osmokote under them and watering them regularly in dry periods after they got well established, them that exceptionally nice thickness and spread portion of them today might have reached at least 8 feet high. As it is they have a fairly nice appearance from top to bottom, but do not have the type of screening affect that you would want to handle well the issues you have described in your back yard view. Hope that with all this description, it will help you to understand better why I suggested a double staggered row with the front row beeing the Steeplechase trees. If cost is an issue, you might plant 6 foot tall GGS on the back row and either purchase locally or order in if they cannot be found locally the steeplechase sport cultivars of the GGS. If ordered in those Steeplechase cultivar trees would probably on be available no larger than 3 gallon size and will look fairly thin when you get them, but if you provide them good drainage, water them correctly, and feed them with osmokote each spring and fall growing season then it will suprise you a how quickly they catch up in size the the larger GGS you planted in the back row.

Model number MS3250 C331 Serial number 78200731 I can get to the tv setup menu by holding in the volumn up and down buttons but didn't see an Aux setup, hope this isn't only on the "lost" remote. Dvd uses the 3 colored wires, red, white, and yellow. Dish uses coax cable, can't swap them around. Will try new colored cables tonight.

The Moroccean chandelier would appeal to DH but I want something "lighter". Thanks for thinking of it! I happen to like the Edison chandelier too. I'm just not feeling the bronze though I know it would go over my table. Hence, my dilemna I mentioned earlier. Still don't know... can I/should I mix finishes? I do think a wood one would work. Especially since I already do have the bar stools. They were one of my crazy craigslist finds. I paid for all four for half the cost of one and they are essentially new. Just an unbeliveable deal and I fell madly in love with them. Since they will be on the sunroom side I"m hoping I can still put in a slimline couch/chaise whose materials will tie into the barstools. Down here there is a plethora of indoor/outdoor furniture that fits that bill. So now we'll have to bill my home a Mid 20th Century (hey! I'm mid 20th century!)contemporary earthy tropcial touches and a clean line feel! Here's a couple of others I had found and marked. BUt I sitll don't know about them... that's why I need you guys. This one I can get in a number of finishes including SS or Mahogany> This one combines wood, SS, and glass: I had found another kinda similar that the globes were kinda clear with what looked liked reeds inbedded but they were acrylic and I don't knwo how I feel about acrylic. So, jsut to clarify... what about mixing finishes? Crud.. won't imbed. I hate usind DH's computer.. mine is down. Link to the Bellacor one: http://www.bellacor.com/fullsize.cfm?Sku=973606 Link to the other one from Lighting Universe: http://www.lightinguniverse.com/products/view.aspx?sku=2719097

Minwax strikes again! Sigh. You are getting compatibility issues between the stain and the polyurethane (the first bubbling and peeling). And the sand off of the Duraseal poly then applying a DIFFERENT finish the floors is probably why you know have #2 WLS (the "faux" white line syndrome = adhesion failure). Minwax stains have a history of problems with used with another line like DuraSeal. The confusion comes in because DuraSeal is owned by Minwax and they use the same NAMES in their STAIN line. This is SUPER confusing for "worker dudes" who are not flooring professionals. Minwax really only plays well with Minwax (the stinky poly that is illegal in 11 states). DuraSeal is only a half step better in quality...but it does have it's own STAIN LINE. The STAIN needs to MATCH the finish. The more times you try to add different lines together (it is possible we have 3 products reacting with each other) the more problems you run into. They "fixed" the bubbling but they created a whole new set of problems by using another product. I really prefer to see the high-end polyurethanes being used. They should cost DOUBLE the amount of Minwax/DuraSeal...and they should be paired with their OWN STAIN line-up. Do NOT let the next guy "mix and match" the stain/finish. All major manufacturers product stains that work with their finishes. They are more expensive...but they are also LESS hassle. Good luck. PUSH HARD with the builder. S/he needs to learn what happens when you use "Chuck in a Truck" as your flooring professional and what it costs when Chuck mixes and matches stains and finishes. It is EXPENSIVE and it costs TIME...and delays and, and, and! Once bitten the builder will be "twice shy" of the Chucks in this world. Do NOT let them off the hook. The flooring inspector is your "big stick" that you can carry around.