We replaced ours with a stainless panel made for the DW. Was about $40 I think and took about 10 Minutes to do. Ours is a Kenmore Elite which is really a Whirlpool. Also had a shiny black front door which we bought that way purposely because at the time all our appliances were black. Been a really nice DW though, had for about 8 years or so now without a problem and cleans well. Hard to say what would work best on yours without seeing a picture and listing the brand and model number.

In most areas there are plenty of options for buying locally. Just google your city + appliance parts distributors and you should get a few hits. The only advantage to this is that you will get the parts quicker. Often, prices will be higher and the return policies will be less generous. Speaking of return policies, let's look at the ones of the "big three" online parts shops: SearsPartsDirect: "You may return an unused and uninstalled part in its original packaging. We must receive the returned part(s) with the Return Authorization number within 365 days of your original order date" RepairClinic: "You may return any item for any reason within 365 days of placing your order" AppliancePartsPros: "Unlike our competitors that only offer 30 or even 15 days, we offer 365 days to return a part and we make the process very simple and truly hassle free! If you are not 100% satisfied with your purchase, we will be happy to accept a return for a full refund. While our competitors have strict rules about returning electrical, gas, or special order parts, we let you return any part you buy from us. All we ask is that you send the items back to us in the original packaging, and make sure that the merchandise is in the same condition" After reading those, which one would YOU buy from? Clearly Sears Parts Direct is the inferior option. I usually use APP out of habit (it's the one I found first), but RepairClinic should be just as good. There have been a couple times where I've been trying to fix an appliance that is loaded with electronic boards, and the problem could be caused by 2 or 3 of them (There is no way to test electronic boards except a visual inspection. If they all pass, you're left to guess). Well I can just order the 2 or 3 possible boards from APP, test them one by one and return the others. They have great customer service and are the most relaxed company I've ever dealt with.

Same just happened to me! I hit the latch with my fingers pulling out the cutlery trap and tripped it. I tried closing harder but doesn’t work. Any idea if the metal part should be forward or back to keep lock up?

j'ai enfin retrouvé ce poste de ma dernière lecture de il y a 1 ans que j'endure le problème de déverrouillages. Maintenant elle ne verrouille même plus a chaud. Plutôt que d' affaiblir le ressort j'ai approfondit les 2 encoche de plastique ( la petite encoche) des 2 coté du dit ressort avec une scie a frette de Guitard (scie sans chemin et très mince)...... je me suis rendu au fond . Résultat très (trop) concluant mais j'y suit aller trop loin et maintenant la porte verrouille des que je la ferme. Je projeté d'étirer le ressort mais j'hésite car c'est viable tel quel juste a déverrouiller la porte manuellement. Les pointes et la micro switche ont été nettoyer et tester mais le problème ne viens pas de la.... (Je suis technicien sur des spas.... j'assume mes résulta sur ce que j'avance...) Mon impression c'est que a l'usure du temps et le poids de la porte en verre associé a l'usure des penture de la porte fait pression sur le mécanisme et empêche que le loquet de travail librement ce qui pointe sur le fait que le loquet neuf ou et la carte ne change rien...... Les bobine ou les relais sur la carte peuvent ne pas aider a avoir une belle impulsion pour l'électro aimant. donc dans certains cas cela peut aider.... et un relais ca se change en boutique électronique pour je dirais 50 a 75$$ et non 800$$$ pour la carte au complet donc pas beaucoup a perde dy mètre 2 relais neuf ......