Glass tile accent strip - where and how wide?
biondanonima
16 years ago
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brutuses
16 years agoRelated Discussions
Placement of subway tiles above and below mosaid accent strip
Comments (5)I had this issue and staggered the chair rail strip. Don't think I have pics yet. I even cut some chair rail down (at corners) to make sure it didn't stack over the subways, if it looked like this was going to happen. And yes, have him re-do the subways to stagger the rows above and below the accent. it does look weird, I've seen it. I hate it when tile guys don't bother to plan the layout first! Good luck!...See Morehow would white subway tile + an accent line of iridescent mosaic
Comments (5)I'm thinking of doing the same thing. I saw some bisazza mosaic blends at Home Depot (yep!) that looked fantastic with carrara (the mix was white/grey with a few iridescent tiles included) and it wasn't too pricey ($7.92/sq ft). the blend was "roma plus" - I couldn't find that blend on the bisazza website, but HD lady said many mfgs. have special products just for HD. I was also thinking of doing something similar - using the bisazzas on one accent wall, and running a strip of bisazzas around the rest of the room. I'd pay special attention to the undertone of the subways and mosaics & make sure they're ok with the carrara. whites can be really tricky. when next to stark white, the bisazzas had a grey-ish cast, which looked great with carrara and the almost black vanity. don't know what brand of subway tile you're looking at, but i believe the various dal whites have slightly different tones. also, the glass mosaics tend to be thinner than regular tiles, so be sure to take that into consideration during the install. I've seen the mosaic bands set between pencil liners, and that looked good....See MoreDo I need to border my mosaic accent strip?
Comments (2)I think a transition of some sort between different materials usually results in a better looking wall than no transition, much of that depends on how similar or dissimilar the adjacent materials will be. A small pencil or some other liner can help the eye and the brain more easily move across the wall, and it often sets accentuates the components of the wall instead of having them muddle one another. While there are things I like and prefer, we don't always see things the same. Glass next to glass might transition just fine, glass next to ceramic might look better with a liner. Color transitions can be a different animal, to me "it depends" on the materials and the colors. Transition pieces can also help when adjacent materials are of a different thickness. They can also help when they are different sizes or set in different patterns. It really is in the eye of the beholder. But what I've found is that as in your case, if "it doesn't look right", then the homeowner knows that something else is needed in the design, but they just don't know how to make the leap. This may sound silly, but you want transitions to look planned and not haphazard, and the material acting as the transition piece should be subservient to the other materials. Meaning it should compliment them, not dominate them. The best I can offer is to "work on it" and get something that is appealing to you. As to the ceiling, if the planned pattern seems too "matchy" or not "matchy enough" then sometimes it can help to take a different path. Herringbone for a subway, or a diagonal for a square or rectangular tiles, etc. Ambiguously, Mongo...See MoreHow did you decide where to put random accent tiles in your BS?
Comments (3)You wouldn't like random, but you can achieve it by using a random number generator. They have them on the web. Or you could roll a die. You might also try using the Fibonacci series as a way of spacing the tiles. That describes a great many structures in nature. To the human eye it looks random but pleasing, even though it's not random at all. Your Post-It method should work. Just make sure when you put them up that they're spaced correctly, not so much for the grout lines, as to have the right number of them up and down. Make sure you measure your tiles because nominal 4"x4" are often not that exact size. Instead of the papers, you could use a chalk line (string filled with chalk) to quickly draw where the grout lines will be (remember to include coves, bull noses, etc.), and then just use your 1x1's. If you have a better imagination for positioning than color, you could arrange the actual tiles on the floor as they'd be on the wall. If there's some color variation in the tiles, that's worthwhile anyway. What I do, is start with the view of the whole and put in the first 3-4 to break it up into sections, then start filling in. Sometimes move one this way or that to keep the harmony going. It's much more wholistic than using a numerical rule, but more fun. :)...See Moreshaughnn
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