what is standard island height?!? picture
arkansasgal
16 years ago
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craftsman_lodge
16 years agoemmachas_gw Shaffer
16 years agoRelated Discussions
Is there a standard counter height?
Comments (4)The standard FINISHED height for kitchen countertops is 36". For bathrooms it is 34". Nothing is mandatory, of course, but those are the standards that are normally used. For bathrooms I would very much recommend using the standard height of 34", as you will have tall people and short people and kids and I don't know what all using them over their lifetime. Also, you are not normally in those rooms that long a time, or at least not normally hunched over the countertops for extended lengths of times. The kitchen is another story. In years past the wife did all the cooking, but that is no longer the case. Now a fair number of men are getting into the kitchen, so when my six foot frame works alongside my wife's five foot two, it can cause a problem. IF the layout of your kitchen will permit it, it sometimes makes sense to have a particular countertop at a lower height. Those with the room for a kitchen island may elect to have it at a 34" or 33" finished height. Really, it just depends on whether yours is a two-person kitchen. Ours is so small that, even though we often cook together, it is very much a one-person kitchen, as there just is not the luxury of enough space to permit dedicated working spaces. For that type of kitchen, I would recommend simply staying with the standard 36". But those with the space for it may well discover that two countertop heights is the most brilliant idea in their new kitchen! Here is a link that might be useful: Cabinet & Furniture Trends & Information...See MoreGranite Island Overhang - Non-Standard Shape
Comments (36)It seems that you've found a cool solution here without posts. In case anyone else is looking at this, our island is 8' long and we have a 14" overhang. We have posts supporting each corner which are quite substantial in size and fastened to the floor. I love having the aprons as well but be careful when you decide to go that route since it will inhibit the amount of room people have for their lap space when sitting at it. In our case, we only did an Apron around the sides. If you want an apron where people sit, you would either need to raise the island or somehow make the stools a bit shorter. Here is a pic of ours when the counters were being installed. Since our posts are hollow, we had power run up into them through the floor with outlets inserted and facing inwards towards the stools on each side. They are totally hidden yet really accessible! Btw, a longer overhang is totally worth it and makes sitting at the island WAY more comfortable! This post was edited by TB151 on Fri, Mar 14, 14 at 8:40...See Morecounter height for stools higher than standard .. what size stool
Comments (26)I'm sure you'll be able to find what you are looking for. We got our stools at California Bar Stools--I think they just serve our local area (Bay Area), but they have several on their website that I think are similar to what you are looking for. There was a lot of choice in terms of the stain and the upholstery, if you can afford to go custom. We were even able to take home a few options to see how they looked (it totally helped!). Our counters are 37" and we got 26" stools. My husband commented tonight that he thinks they are the perfect size. Here is a link that might be useful: California Bar Stools...See MoreFeasability of reducing 40'' counter height to standard 36''?
Comments (7)It looks like you may or may not be able to salvage the lowers. If you could open up one of the doors on a base so the guts could be seen in a photo it would be helpful. The counters might be salvageable or might not. It depends on how they were attached and whether they were epoxied together during installation. There is a risk that even using the same cabinets that the counters would crack. So, just know that you'd need to have a reserve to replace ALL OF THE counters if it happens. What live wired oak is alluding to is that the existing cabinetry may become damaged by uninstalling it and moving it. This is particularly likely on fillers and molding. (And, molding is expensive and difficult to match.) Removal damage may also happen to end panels or other bits and pieces. You may have plumbing and possibly electrical work to do - the plumbing would likely be fairly trivial - to shorten drain lines. The electrical could vary between just about nothing (undo the island outlets and reconnect later using the same wire) to more than you'd think - mostly because of moving the uppers. It depends on whether there are undercabinet lights, how those are wired up plus how the countertop outlets are positioned. If you do move the upper cabinets down, you also have to do something up at the sofit - adding to it or the moldings. If you're ok with less space between the uppers and the lowers, I'd think about adding an undershelf instead of moving the cabinets. This is my personal taste, but I'd consider taking the uppers off completely on the window wall and replacing with some open shelving at a height that was pleasing. Don't know if I'd do it, but I'd think about it. The cabinet doors are a pretty standard design - so you could likely get replacement lowers and have them stained to be close or possibly get the same thing from the original maker. Even if you can get the same thing, be aware that it may take a year or so for the colors to equalize. This is because of exposure to sunlight. You might want to do some cabinet replacements in any event so you could have more drawers. All of this is why people like me say to live with it a little while if at all possible before deciding. Tactically, you could pull the island only and replace it with something more your height. This would provide a work area while awaiting funding to redo the perimeter. If the existing cabinets can't be re-factored, having a contrasting island is done all the time - so it wouldn't look totally weird to replace it with something painted or in a contrasting wood like walnut. Islands like that are available retail - so no special cabinet work except for removal of the existing. Whether you can do a different shape or size would depend on whether the flooring is continuous under the island. Even if its not, it's not that bad an expense to get flooring feathered in. Altho, you'd still likely have some electrical and the countertop would need to be different too. Or cut-down. I did happen to price out getting some stone recut to a different size and it wasn't too horrible where I live. Or you do only a new island out of cabinetry that is close in color and style to the originals. If you're thinking about asking for a consideration in the price to redo, think about two things. It would lower your purchase price - but that may not yield enough cash to actually accomplish what you'll need to do. The second thinking is to be sure you start off asking for enough - including labor. $50k may be enough or not in your area to replace with relatively equal stuff....See Morefairegold
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