I have to admit, it was the looks of this range that got me. It took 1-1/2 years of service with almost all of the parts replaced before it worked correctly. The LP conversion was not complete, the technician did not install a fitting on the broiler and the flame was WAY too big. This could have set the wall on fire and may have been the cause of some of the service problems...hard to say. Yes, a lot of heat blows at you from the oven, will try putting the vent fan on prior to cooking! I have a 400cfm Maytag microwave over the range that come on automatically when it senses too much heat. It’s only been about a year since installed. It does take about 20-25 minutes for this little oven to preheat. I would highly recommend the pro series just for the built in thermometer, even for $500! The 30” oven is small for entertaining or for a family. I can’t seem to fit anything but a cookie sheet on the second rack. Love the infrared broiler, although electric is always preferable for baking. The 30” is fine for two people, and since the conversion was corrected everything works great. elaine

I've had major problems staying connected to Wi-Fi in my home DSL network modem. At one point I've moved my DSL modem to upstairs to make networking work better and it turned out not to be so since I have multiple connections. Network constantly disconnect: DirecTV/Cell Phone(s)/Computer(s) and Wii Console. One Router should do the trick by keeping the ISP modem downstairs and the Router upstairs using the Ethernet 1 cat5 connection in the most central location in the upper part of home nearest most used room / window to your backyard. Set up Guest Access through your ISP Gateway. Split up and divide your home network between the ISP modem, Guest Access and Router. By doing this, your ISP Modem will not be over burden causing disconnection to your Home Network. I've been fighting with my Frontier Communication ISP for several months and finally got everything working after Linksys or Netgear Router was reinstalled. Keep it simple! ISP Modem (SSID "user name") *Toshiba* Guest Access (SSID "Separate user name + Password") *Toshiba Guest* Router (SSID "your user name + number") *Toshiba2* Reset all connections in your home: You should see all your Networking Connections (Toshiba, Toshiba Guest and Toshiba2) TV's on Modem according to location in home. PC on Router connection or modem location. Cell Phones on Guests connection. By doing this, your connectivity should improve! Good luck, Larry.

First off, that's a particularly unprofessional installation. The feeder neutral should NOT block access to the fuses. The rest is pretty sloppy and screams that it was done by an amateur. Your neighbor is giving you good advice. You can not use a self tapping screw. Further, if it is serving as part of your main bonding, there are specific requirements as to sizing. You would be better off using specifically listed accessories for your disconnect rather than just poking at it at random. As you've been told COUNTLESS times. The ONLY place the grounds and the grounded conductor (NEUTRAL) are allowed to come together is in the disconnect. You must isolate it EVERYWHERE else. Yes this means isolating the ground and neutral buses (which depending on the panel may require you to install an additional grounding bar) and making sure all the wires land on the right bar. There are TWO types of water piping ground that you have to worry about. The first is the metal piping that comes in from at least 10' of earth contact. This is part of your grounding electrode system. It needs to run directly to your disconnect (perhaps connected to the other electrode conductors via approved fasteners. Note that these connection requirements are different than for other conductors. The SECOND thing is the metal piping that may exist inside your house. This must be BONDED. Now the fact it SHOULD be already connected as a grounding electrode would suffice except you need to assure that things like water meters, hot water heaters, etc... do not interrupt the continuity (you may need to bond across these units).

If you are running MicroSoft Windows, they offer a free malware cleaner. In fact, Microsoft sends that cleaner out about once a month with other updates; It runs once and then excuses itself. When it runs, it takes a long time for it to scan critical files and locations on your disk. Over a year ago, I converted to Uverse to get the better internet speeds and at about the same or less cost that I was paying for DSL and the old analog phone (voice) service. I was renting 2 lines from the phone company: one for the computer and the other for phones. IN addition, I was paying $240 per year for dial-up internet connection. But with the increased amount of data that flows today and high graphic content, dial-up no longer was practical. Also, software and software updates no longer arrives on a CD of DVD, it is downloaded. Dial-up is too slow and error prone for effective software installations or updates. I chose Uverse when it became available and the sales force was knocking on my door touting all its good points - they did not adequately explain all the changes required. Uverse has been very convenient since it sets up a wireless network within your house. A number of things can be connected wireless PROVIDED they contain a radio to converse wirelessly with the gateway. A PC can connect wirelessly or through the air. The computer needs a wireless card if it does not have built-in capability. (Most newer laptops do have a radio.) Many newer printers have a radio, but the lower end versions may not. I direct connect my printer to the desktop computer with a USB cable, but I can also at the same time, activate its radio and then it can be seen by other computers. The Uverse set-up negates your analog phone connection. Once Uverse is installed, phone signals arrive in digital form and a converter-to-analog is included in the incoming box so that the analog phones continue to work. Here;s the rub. Most 911 emergency calling systems today have locater capabilities for the older dial up phones. That is, the 911 operator is able to locate the phone that is making the call. This is critical in case the caller can not speak, That capability may be negated with a switch to digital phone service. At my location, AT&T assured me that the location feature was available at my phone exchange. The second rub: Depending on what kind of phone you had, some older simple phones did not depend on house current to operate, but ran from the power supplied by the phone company. You could still make a call if your power went out. With Uverse service, that function is handled differently. Part of your installation is a battery box that is plugged into your house power. It keeps a battery charged that can maintain your phone service for about 18 hour. After that, you are without phone service until power is restored. That also means you have no 911 capability after the battery runs down. After that, you will be dependent on a cell phone. For Uverse service, you will need to dedicate one electrical outlet to power the installation. It is recommended that a transient protected extension be used. My gateway can handle 10 channels, i.e., 10 signal sources such as printers and computers. Our typical load is 2 to 4 computers and 2 printers. My original gateway failed early. The replacement unit has ran trouble free for over a year. I have rebooted it only twice during that time: once because power line glitches upset the system, and once when it was shut down for vacation. Because of old telephone cables (outside) and the distance to the fiber optic node, the installer had to use 2 phone circuits to bring my service up to the intermediate speed they had sold to me.