oldalgebra - thanks gizmonike - hoe ingenius! stacyneil - FYI, the Wiremold brand plugmold is 7/8" deep when mounted and 1 1/4" high. So might not work if you have drawers. I'm assuming you want the receptacles facing front, not down, so you don't have to bend over to see where you're plugging things in. You also need to allow enough room for your plugs on the ends of your cords - some of them can be quite wide. I can plug appliance cords into mine with app. 1/2" above and below my plugmold (2 1/8" b/t top of lower counter and bottom of upper) but can't fit most cellphone chargers, etc. - anything with an AC/DC transformer on it.

With respect to Mocketts: The inspectors who frequent the Mike Holt's forum agree (to the extent that they ever agree on anything) that the round Mockett shown above would not pass for the required outlet because it is attached by a plug and cord and not by fixed wiring. It is allowed to supplement the required outlet. There is now (or soon?) a square Mockett (round hole in granite) that is available with "fixed" wiring in the form of flexible conduit. This is the PCS39 shown in Doug Mockett & Co.'s 2009 catalog, CAT21D.pdf, that I found somewhere on the web. Extract folows: "... the power outlets can come with either a 6 ft. cord or a 6 ft. hardwire for kitchen, lab or medical use. Hardwired version meets NEC requirements." kas

@User I'm reaching out because the 4 people who are professionals on my end are ALL telling me the same thing but those on Houzz are telling me different. It's not about money. If it was just the KD (who actually isn't one of the 4 telling me any of this, we sort of eliminated her from the picture aside from ordering the cabinets) then I would not be trying to understand this more. BUT, because I read some things and subsequently asked on Houzz and I'm hearing differences I'm trying to understand it as I am the one that is going to need to go back to the contractor, architect, electrician and designer (not the KD) and tell them that I need further research and why. It's really not a money thing it's me trying to honestly understand it all so when I talk to the others actually involved in this project I have the knowledge to back it up. The reason I'm posting is that I've read things that I personally think contradict and I'm trying not to get into a Help Disaster situation. I think the more help disaster would be me not reaching out and me not having a conversation with the professionals on here to try to truly understand it. I really didn't appreciate your post as it makes it sound like I'm just being stupid when it comes to a big project when what I'm trying to do is ensure that no mistakes are made BEFORE we order anything. If I just trusted what others said then we may be in that help situation but that's the exact opposite of what I'm doing.

“Which means it does not apply everywhere, unless in force by municipal choice. That is most likely why I hadn't heard about outlet requirements in islands. It is not required where I am located.” The reason for this Code requirement is so that when someone uses a coffee pot, blender, mixer, or any other counter appliance on the island, she is not plugging it in by stretching the electrical cord across the aisle to a backsplash outlet many feet away. The scenario Joseph Corlett mentioned is the least worrisome. More concerning are (1) someone walking through the aisle and not noticing the cord and tripping on it, (2) not seeing the cord across the aisle and running into it and pulling on it, causing it to short, and (3) an electrical short from @Sherry Brighton stretching the electrical cord across the aisle, starting the blender, and having the stretched and vibrating cord spark. If your contractor tells you local Code says you don’t need receptacles in an island - and even the worst crappy contractors will not say that, because even they have some standards - then you better find another contractor.