Geez - just read my typo in the title!! Guess that's what happens when you've got two kids fighting in the background!! School starts back when?? :o) The thought of having to have my tile guys come back again is enough to make me say "Forget the hooks!!" The shower ended up looking great!! But only after having to have them come back FOUR times to fix things - I'm talking obvious stuff, grout was different colors, tile was so obviously uneven in some spots, etc. I've seriously got to figure out what to do with these swimsuits though. We've got a walk-in shower, so there is no door. I fretted because I didn't have anywhere to put the wet bath cloths, but they are drying okay on the bench. I usually wash towels and wash cloths once a day anyway, so this isn't a big deal. But, the swimsuits = ???? I guess I could always install a towel rod over the tub and let them drip into there, but it would be so much easier to let them drip in the shower since that's where they are being taken off anyway.

Construction adhesive may hold, but it also may release over time due to moisture exposure at floor level. You might want to consider a high grade silicone adhesive, instead. Regardless of what you use, you'll still end up staining the grout (a consideration only if you ever intend to take the island away). I believe that granite counter installers routinely depend on silicone and the weight of the granite to keep countertops in place. If you try adhesive and it fails at some future point, then I would mount a hidden frame of 2X4's to the floor and attach the cabinets to that. I would do this by drilling through the tiles. A hammer drill and the right bit will make short work of it. Then you can fasten the frame down with the something like tapcon screws. You could even add some silicone adhesive: this glue and screw combo should be plenty strong. As for powder actuated nail drivers, they take some skill to use correctly and get the depth correct, and are very dangerous to use without safety training: they're basically guns that fire nails instead of bullets. I'd discourage this approach.

Lots of good advice. But the best one is to be sure you have the right drill bit. They are very expensive, but work. We use the diamond drill bit and they are only good for so many holes. Once you start breaking the plate, it usually means you need a new bit. We purchase them at our local Ace Hardware and they sell for around $10 a bit. We also use two different sizes. The first to start and make a small hole, the second to enlarge the hole. Oil works but with the diamond, just going slow and without any liquid works best for us. My husband used a drill press. We have put holes in many crystal plates as we create crystal plate-flower garden stakes. becky

Havent read all the replies, but enough to know that I agree with Joseph, and was going to suggest pulling the top forward if locked between two walls, or even pulling the cabinet and the top forward. A few of the dimensions on the OPs drawing has me puzzled though. 22 3/16 inch overall depth is an odd depth. More like a cultured marble or a laminate top. 21: is standard vanity depth, +1 1/2 is the standard for stone or quartz on a overlay style door. +1 inch on inset. 4 inches front space is excessive. Assuming a 21 inch vanity depth, 1 3/16 overhang, 3/4 faceframe thickness, 1 1/4 inch flange for the sink , 1/4 inch negative reveal and the front setback could've been 3.5 inches instead of 4. Notching the flange of the sink into the faceframe could gain you another 5/8 or so.. When things start to get tight with specified components, you need to get creative integrating them, as Joseph said. N Trimming the flange could accomplish the same thing. Trimming the rear flange of the sink would've allowed you to pull the faucets forward even more. Its not uncommon to have to thin down the backsplash, and even then use popup drains instead, as Worthy indicated. The problem is, when you dont have a pop up specd, it costs someone $$. If I were to give you a thought on where stuff like this goes wrong, its starts with the shop drawings. Too many times if had to deal with experienced cad operators that dont know the ins and outs of a proper install. If you look at the supplied shop drawing, it appears whoever did the shop drawing placed the sink in the center of the top, front to back. The numbers do not match up either. 22 3/16 - 4 inches should leave 18 3/16. Im of the opinion that the computer guy should start out in this work in the installation field, so he learns that not everything can be done on the computer. Some things need to be tweaked in the field in order for them to work out.. This problem starts with selections and specifications, and moves down the chain from there to where its at now. There would've been many different opportunities to make this work, but once the sink is cut you're basically stuck with compromising. $.02 For what its worth, this happens nearly every day somewhere in the country. Who ever decided vanities needed to be 21 deep? Whenever I have room, I specify a kitchen depth and height cabinet.