I have done tons of research and I am still having trouble sizing and choosing water treatment equipment for my well water. My home has 2 occupants, 2 bathrooms and a jacuzzi tub that is almost never used. My test results are Hardness 8 gpg Iron 0.28 mg/L TDS 130 mg/L PH 8.3 mg/L Tannins 0.5 mg/L H2S 0.3 ppm I am having the most trouble deciding how to treat the H2S which does sometimes cause a pretty strong odor. I am leaning towards a Pyrolox, Filox, Catalox, MangOx or similar filter for the H2S but none of the water treatment providers in my area offer these. One local company suggested a KDF filter for the H2S. I am also still looking at an Odor Oxidizer to treat the H2S but I am scared of this option because it seems like most of the companies recommending this several years ago have stopped using this because of problems with the tank. I am told by the manufacturer and a couple of companies still offering the Odor Oxidizer that the problems have been corrected. I also don't know how concerned I should be about the Tannins in my water or how to treat that. Thanks in advance for any help.

A. Read your entire manual. B. Install the softener per instructions in the manual. C. Follow start-up instruction on page 5 of the manual. D. Pg 11 - Master Programming Mode - Enter Master Programming Mode per instructions. E. Set as follows: 1. GAL (US Gallons) 2. St2b 3. Fd 4. 1 5. 48 6. 7.5 (7 grains hardness + 0.06Mn x 5 then rounded up to nearest 0.5) 7. rc 8. 20 9. 0 10. 0 11. 7 12. 2:00 (this is the time when it will regen. If you prefer another time of day, set this differently. Pick a time when you will not typically use water for a couple of hours) 13. BW = 10, BD = 60, BW = 5, RR = 10, BF = Okay, here we need info. Locate your BLFC. There should be a colored sticker (blue, red or black) where brine enters the valve assembly. The sticker will say 0.5 gpm, 0.25 gpm or 1.0 gpm. If the valve says 0.5 (typical) then set this time to 3 minutes. If 0.25, set to 6 minutes. If 1.0, set to 1.5 minutes. 14. Don't change 15. Don't change 16. Don't change 17. Don't change Exit Master Programming Mode F. Enter User Programming Mode (we are now on page 18 in the manual) G. Set as follows 1. DO = 7 2. RT = 2:00 am or time of your choice 3. H = 7.5 4. RC = no change 5. CD = set the current day H. Exit user program mode. I. Enjoy

When you buy softeners online the seller is relying on the customer proving accurate water condition, usage, and plumbing info (if and when an online seller cares about offering what the customer really needs) so when you don't get what you need it's your fault and the online seller still has their profit. If you want correctly sized and the right treatment hardware then get a comprehensive water test from a certified independent lab cause they have no interest in selling you water treatment.. Then you can evaluate the honesty and competence of the local water treatment dealers. Unless you get a performance guaranty in writing from a water treatment seller NEVER rely solely on tests done by them.

Thanks for all the comments! Every individual unit can be bypassed - with the exception of the pre-filter and pressure switch being tied to one another. That's by design, but I'm considering switching it. I didn't note it on the diagram, but thank you for pointing out the supports. The larger red and blue (copper) pipes will be supported at the corner where they first drop down. There's no drywall on the ceiling in that room right now, but when I complete half a dozen other projects down there it will be, and that will be above the drywall. Same thing with the pressure relief valve. Everything else I figured would be okay, except the pressure relief valve and prefilter.... Still thinking about how to do that in a way that looks decent. Drains are just going to be 3/4" PEX, so I didn't bother modeling them. I was just going to use tees to connect them all to a single drain line. Though about using some check valves, but I don't think it will actually be necessary. I am curious about how the aerator discharge and the filter/softener backwash will affect one another, but I don't expect any problems. Will labelthe thing after a few revisions and repost. Sorry about that! I agree with you on the CPVC valves. I'm aiming for no metal components before treatment is complete to reduce corrosion. It would probably take decades before I noticed the difference, but I am hoping that these are higher quality valves and will last longer. The aeration tank is pressurized - I'm thinking 60-75 psi as the range. As far as a sparger, I'd definitely prefer to use one! I'd read that they will stop up very quickly with higher iron levels in the water. Any thoughts on that? For the resin... Ya, if I don't hear back from them before I'm ready to buy I'll definitely be looking elsewhere. My backup is Resintech's CG10. The UV system is actually already installed. Old owners put it in because of a failed bacteria test with water from a bathroom faucet. I'm pretty sure it was introduced after the well. I'm planning on shocking the well when I do all this and installing a new UV Bulb. When that bulb is near its end of life I'll do some tests and if everything is negative I'll remove the UV system. Thanks again for all the comments!