Hi there

Dont know if this is still active but here goes...

Got a DD60SHTL16 and yesterday it wouldn't start. When the power button is activated the start button lights green but then after about 3 seconds it starts flashing slow. Long light and the a short "no light". I can't seem to find anything about what this indicates.

Can you help in any way?

Best regards Thorkil

Where are you located? I don't find a reference to that model with a 16 at the end.

There's no fault code (pattern of lights on the cycle selector lights) or beeping? What does the user guide say about delay start, what is the indication that a delay is in effect? Does it have the knock-to-pause feature? Maybe a problem with that?

I’m hoping this thread is still active. I have a DS605. I got an F1 error code. There is some water in the wiring cover on the bottom of the drawer and a very small amount in the bottom by the mains circuit. Also, the dish drawer is not draining completely. Not a lot, but more than just the drain filter hole has water.

I replaced The motor rotor because the washer was very noisy and showed wear. Quiet now, but didn’t fix leak.

I replaced the detergent dispenser because there was evidence of leak and rinse aid residue inside the front panel. No more leak evidence there, but still water in the wiring cover.

what should I try next?

You dried-up the water in the base and it leaked again?

Check for a crack in the water fill hose (from the valve to the dispenser), and cracking in the drain hose (can be tricky to find).

Also a tear or cut in the lid seal. This can happen from a knife or other sharp item protruding upwards too high when the drawer is opened/closed. Or a broken lid yoke.

We tested the lid actuation and it seems to operate smoothly. The lid seal looks ok, maybe a little worn on one corner, but I’m not sure how that would lead to water in the wiring cover under the tub.

There's still a leak from somewhere if you dried the water in the base and it reappeared. Your task is to find the source. Presumably you've checked the water fill line and the drain hose.

Leaking from the pump/motor seal, water would reasonably be visible in shield that attaches to the underside of the tub.

There's an air vent at the right/rear of the drawer (the drying fan draws air into the tub from there, exhausts it out the front). A split in the edge of the spray arm can cause water to spray sideways toward that vent. Excess sudsing from detergent (pods can cause it due to overdosing) can cause leaking from the vent in two ways --

1. Suds get pushed out the vent and dissolve into water drops in the base.
2. Water level is sensed via current draw on the pump motor. Excess suds reduces the load on the pump and the controller may respond by adding more water to compensate which can cause leaking out the air vent.

The mains board under the wiring cover in the base has the flood detector on it. A damaged mains board can give a false flood fault ... but you say there IS water in the base so presumably the fault isn't false.

Thanks for the advice. Looks like I need to do some more sleuthing with the wire cover off to see if I can more easily identify where the water came from that is collecting there

It was a leak in the motor assembly. Replaced it and everything is working beautifully. Thanks!

Leaking from the seal, or from a wear-through on the motor housing perhaps related to the aforementioned rotor wear? Either way, that's a fairly rare occurrence.

It was not from the seal. I think it had worn through. We could not really see a hole or crack, just the drip, which was coming from near the center of the motor assembly

Hi Dadoes, I’m hoping you’re still around to help another person in distress :-). I have a DS603I (single draw), went I first did the diagnostics i had a U1 type error, partner checked both inlet valves and they had a resistance. he saw mains filter board was not looking the greatest so suggested to change it. We decided to plug everything back in and run diagnostics to see if water inlet valve was working but when we turned it on rfi controller board blew up!! bought a new controller and mains board, installed them and new controller blew up and the wiring loom plugged in the chassis harness is burnt (at plug to rfi controller board) too. We checked the chassis harness wiring and it does not look like there is any damages to it. We’re a bit loss about what alley to check next. Buy a new chassis harness wiring and controller board but is there anything else we should test? It doesn’t look like there is any damage to mains filter board. Also does a single draw plug into upper draw or lower draw on the mains filter board? Had it plugged into lower....

@Floral

A single-drawer unit should have one water inlet valve. What's your reference for "partner checked both inlet valves?"

The upper and lower connector positions on the mains board for the drawer controller are keyed differently so each should fit properly at only one position ... whichever one fits to a single-drawer unit. Observe the slot offset in the mains board and compare to the connector plug. The lid motor connectors are also different, one set has two pins the other has three pins ... again whichever pair matches for a single drawer unit.

The new controller board may have failed if it was connected to the wrong position on the mains board ... that will mis-match the circuits from the mains board to the controller.

Beyond that, any other failed component in the system (heating element, pump stator, lid motor, dispenser solenoid, etc.) can cause a board failure until it also is replaced.

And yet another dishdrawer problem that hopefully someone can shed some light on.

I have a bit of a weird problem with an older DD605 dishdrawer.
Either drawer works perfectly if they are used independently. For instance, we have been running only the top washer for a couple of months now, with no issues at all, and I know the same is true with the bottom one.
However, If I run the bottom drawer, within a cycle or two it will start to play havoc with the capacitive cycle buttons inside the top drawer. This will start to cycle rapidly through the options, become ultra sensitive to touch, or just fail to react at all. I've both replaced the top controller (it had some corrosion on the button board), and switched the controllers between the drawers. No change at all, and the problem remains with the top drawer. So 100% confident its not a controller issue.
My guess is that its moisture related, and steam or moisture from the bottom drawer making its way behind the front panel of the top drawer. I've run it without the top outer cover in place, and the problem does not occur, which would give this some credence. So my current tack is anything that could result in moisture escaping the bottom drawer such as hoses or lid. The lid would be a good candidate, as moisture here would have a direct path into the front cover of the drawer above.
I had this in 1000 odd bits over the weekend (slight exaggeration), and nothing obvious. The lid seal looks fine, both lid motors are working fine, hoses all look intact, and no sign of any moisture in the base.

Because I couldn't find any smoking gun, I reassembled it with the lids interchanged, and ran a thin layer of food safe silicone grease over the seal. This wouldn't last forever, but would provide a better seal and hopefully isolate if this is the problem.

End result was no change! After a single cycle of the bottom washer, the buttons in the top started to play up.

I'm at a loss. Anyone have any ideas?

The lid seal doesn't need lubrication. Is there any cracking or deterioration on it?

Maybe a problem with the mains board in the base? The drawer controllers (and lid motors) connect to it.

I had already responded, but its all gone AWOL somewhere, so I’ll try again!

Thanks for the thoughts.

To answer your question, both lid seals looked totally intact – no nicks, cracks, or any obvious defects on either of these. I did switch the lids over when I reassembled it, just in case there was something not visually obvious (for instance warping). The silicone grease was simply a bit of additional security that the lid really was sealing, but to no avail. I ran the lid actuators on the bench, and they both work as expected. Because it's the bottom drawer, its easy to visually verify that the lid is pulling down. I’m as certain as I can be that the lids as working as expected.

The mains board is an interesting idea because it is something shared between the
drawers, but I am struggling to see that this could be all of the problem. Does the mains board simply provide power to the rest of the unit, or is there some logic embedded in there as well? It is having no problems running both drawers simultaneously, and the drawers initially behave totally normally. It is only after the bottom drawer has run that we start seeing problems with the top drawer buttons.

Here are some other combinations I’ve tested;

- as already noted, if both drawers are fully assembled with fronts, and the top drawer
is closed when the bottom runs, the problem is exhibited.

- If the fully assembled top drawer is left ajar while the bottom drawer runs, there
is no problem (though this does change the electronics, as it will detect the drawer is open. I’ll fudge the sensor so the electronics think the drawer is closed, and retry this).

- If the front is removed from the top drawer, and it is shut when the bottom drawer
runs, there is no problem.

I am wondering if there is a combination of issues. For instance, maybe an increase in
temperature or humidity inside the top fascia triggered by the bottom drawer is totally normal, but it is only causing havoc in this case because there is something marginal in the overall power supply?

Is it possible to verify anything with the power supply, or is replacement the only
test?

Because the bottom drawer hadn't been run for a while, we are using this for a few days, then I'll pull the drawer and ensure everything is still dry underneath.

Thanks again.

Andrew

Andrew, I recently had a very similar problem with the top drawer controls changing by themselves. A couple of days ago the bottom drawer stopped after several hours without completing the cycle - the heater has failed, and it's timing out because it never reaches temperature. I now wonder if the heater had 'part failed' a week or two ago, and was taking longer to heat the water. If cycle times were longer as a result, maybe that increased humidity behind the top door. Since we've stopped using the bottom drawer, the top one hasn't had any issues.

Thanks for the note. I'll give a bit of an update from my side, bit suffice to say I still don't understand fully what is/was happening.

I happened to find another complete DD605 with a faulty top drawer (ended up being a dead heater). I picked this up for a trivial amount, and seeing the carcass was in better condition than ours, I elected to replace ours (what I'll refer to add the old dishwasher) with the new one, and just switch the top drawer from our old one.

All good, except that in a couple of days the problem returned. That would indicate that the issue was in the top drawer. I'd immediately suspect the controller, but that has already had a new controller in place. So something else in the drawer - wiring, connectors, ???. What knows. I've replaced the drawer with the bottom drawer from our old washer, and it been working fine the last few weeks.

So I still don't have an absolute answer, other than it is related to the top drawer. At this stage I'm just happy it's running, but my natural curiosity is still niggling. Maybe I'll leave it a while and have another play - I've now got plenty of spares to plug and play.

There's a diagnostic on 603 and 605 (not sure about newer series) to get the temperature reading during operation but it works only on the "regular" model with LCD. Temperature rise can be monitored to confirm if the heating element is working. Start a cycle. Press/hold Keylock for 4 seconds (presumably for a 2nd beep "keylock" but not a 3rd beep "lid lock"). Then press/hold Start/Pause for 8 seconds. The display should alternate between °C and a number for the water temp. (Press Start/Pause again for 8 seconds to switch the diagnostic to °E and a number for the controller rail voltage.) Press Power to exit the diagnostic. May also need to press/hold Keylock to exit lock mode.

Still ends up that the issues arise with the drawer that is not being used, but it's somehow being affected (over time) by the drawer in use. And I've now effectively replaced everything other than the drawer that was not in use, and the problem seems to stay with the inactive drawer. If I stop using the bottom drawer, and switch to the top, within a couple of days it will revert to behaving perfectly, and operates totally normally until I start using the bottom . Weird!

I’m hoping this thread is still active. we just had our double drawer DD24DV2T9N installed a week ago. We first had issues when the wash cycle was flushing water out into the drain tubes which is connected to our disposal. At first, this would trip the electric and turn off the machine. I’ve rerouted our draintubes to the disposal, and now each drawer drains properly independelty. Anytime I try to run both drawes at the same time or even overlap cycles, it trips the electric again. its pretty sudden when it trips. Any advice why? Its another couple of weeks before servcie guy is coming out. Thanks for any advice

@bdexter5910

Who did your installation? Someone not familiar with DishDrawers and didn't follow the instruction regards to routing the drain hoses on a high-loop?

Is there a water leak involved? There's no other reasonable cause for the circuit breaker to trip. Is the machine on a GFI outlet or GFCI breaker?

Thats exactly what I did this morning, i thought our loop looked to low. We are running loads now and still going. No leak involved. thanks!

A high loop (or not) in the drain hoses is not a factor in tripping a breaker ... unless lack of it caused backflow from the disposer/sink into either or both drawers which led to an overfill and leaking out of drawer air vents ... which if it's enough of a leak could result in some water collecting in the base of the unit's outer cabinet and perhaps causing some sort of electrical problem if something got wet that shouldn't. There is a flood sensor in the base that triggers both drawers to go into drain mode even if they're not running cycle, but doesn't ordinarily cause the circuit breaker to trip. Note the the base can hold some water so you wouldn't necessarily see any flooding on the kitchen floor.

Hi there

Dont know if this is still active but here goes...

Got a DD60SHTL16 and yesterday it wouldn't start. When the power button is activated the start button lights green but then after about 3 seconds it starts flashing slow. Long light and the a short "no light". I can't seem to find anything about what this indicates.

Can you help in any way?

By the way iam located in Denmark.

Best regards Thorkil

@Thorkil Hansen, I don't have any specific information on that model and don't find anything useful on a search. Is there beeping or only the long/short flashing light? What is the pattern of lights on the cycle & option selectors on edge of the tub?

Maybe it's not sensing that the drawer is closed so the cycle can start? Does it give the same response if you start a cycle with the drawer open, or does it also beep then?

Is it a new unit or was it used/pre-owned?

Hi dadoes

Thank you for replying.

Its an older machine which was never installed and i bought it about 3 years ago.

Product no: 89248-A

The pattern is the same, if the drawer is open or closes. The normal tune of beeps when I open the drawer, the the light starts flashing in the start button. No reaction when i close the drawer.

The drawer closes normally. The pins in the back of the cabinet er ok.

I agree, it is like the washer is missing a parameter in order to start the cycle.

The 2 diodes on the right side is not always on. I know that if they dont light, it wont start. But is there a way to test them?

Or is there some other test that I can do to narrow down the problem?

Your help is highly appreciated and i am kind of hoping that throw some advice my way.

Have a nice day and hoping to hear from you.

Thorkil

I have a service manual for product code 89248-DK (not 89248-A), model DD60SCHLI6 (letter I, not number 1). The added T (for tall-tub) is a syntax variation.

There is a diagnostic mode test that you can try for the drawer-closed sensor, if it works the same on your model variation.

- Open the drawer. With power off, press/hold Keylock, then press/hold Start/Pause at the same time for 5 seconds. Release the buttons. All the cycle lights should be lit.

- Press Start/Pause once. The cycle lights will change to indicate the last two fault codes (if any, or the lights will remain off if no codes), then a short beep and the lights all turn back on. Make note of the light patterns for the codes. Can press Start/Pause to repeat the display as needed.

- Press Power once. The LCD panel (if your model has it) should read HO. The lock symbol on the display (or the Keylock button light) is the indicator for the closed/open sensor. Lock (or lit) with drawer closed, no lock (or not lit) with the drawer open. Press Power to exit diagnostics.

There also is a fast-test cycle (8 mins -- close lid, fill, wash motor & heating element, drain, drying fan, end). Access diagnostics as above (power off, Keylock + Start/Pause for 5 seconds). Press Power twice. The display should say FC. Press Start/Pause. Close the drawer, Press Start/Pause again to run the test cycle. DON'T run it if there is no water connection, and IMMEDIATELY press Power to cancel and exit if you don't hear water running in after the lid closes, the heating element will overheat and blow the thermal fuse.

Hi again

I cant seem to access the diagnostics as suggested. The only thing happening is the Lock turning on after ap 3 secs.

Its a model without display. Only the 3 buttons on the front and the red lights inside for indication of program.

Where is the thermal fuse located. I have read somewhere that a blown thermal fuse will leave the macine dead but i am not sure if this is what happens here.

Could it be the controller board?

Hoping you still have a few ideas to throw my way ;-)

Have a nice day.

Thorkil

Disconnect the mains power for 60 seconds to reset the machine.

Diagnostics = press and hold Keylock first, then while holding it press and hold Start/Pause ... both together for 5 seconds.

Integrated models, diagnostic key sequences are the same as LCD models but all indicators of the mode and codes are via the pattern of the button lights and cycle lights. A few bits of data (such as accumulated cycle count) can't be retrieved on integrated models because digits/characters on an LCD panel are needed for the info.

The thermal fuse is integrated into the heating element plate. The element must be replaced if the fuse blows.

Diagnostics = press and hold Keylock first, then while holding it press and hold Start/Pause ... both together for 5 seconds. Yes and it makes the ekstra beep. But no light in the indicators and i cant get any lights at all.

If i enter with the draver closed I locks and lover the lid.

I definately got the feeling that a "ready" signal is missing.

I the water inlet measured by a pressure switch or a flow meter?

I took out the controller box and tried to run the machine with the box hanging in the wires. It didnt make any changes. But with the box mounted the machine turns on if i enter a blanc piece of metal between the diodes and the side of the cabinet.

Beside the drawer being closed, what else is there a signals that the washer needs in order to start?

Hope the above is useful and not just nonsense.

Best regards Thorkil

Water fill level is determined by the electrical load on the pump motor.

There should be a plastic prism piece in the frame of the cabinet that aligns with the optical infrared emitter and pickup pipes on the controller module at side of the tub. Is the prism missing? The 2nd pic shows its relative location inside the frame.

Hi again

Emitter and prism is in place.

What about water pressure? Is it a start condition or will it fali after startup du to missing load on the motor?

Thorkil

A cycle starts with a brief drain period to confirm the tub is empty. The pump on my older DD603 usually cycles twice, then switches to a low-speed recirculate while filling to sense the prime at proper level. The time-out for a fill failure is approximately 3 mins if the inlet valve is failed, water pressure is too low, or whatever other reason.

If you can't access any diagnostics then the controller board may be bad, light pipe emitter or receiver, or something else on it.

The water valve can be tested via Diagnostics, Hardware Output (HO / component testing) mode. There are four diagnostic modes. Initial/1st is Fault Code display. 2nd is HO. 3rd is Fast Cycle (FC). 4th is Continuous Cycle (CC) (repeatedly runs the last cycle selected before accessing diagnostics).

- Get into Diagnostics.

- Press Power once to select 2nd mode (HO) (all cycle lights on).

- Press Start/Pause once to enter the selected mode.

- Then press Start/Pause again FOUR times to select water valve test.

- Press Keylock (button light on/green) to turn On the valve. Press Keylock again (button light off) to turn it Off.

- Press Power to exit diagnostics.

- No fault codes trigger during an HO test. Observation reveals if the component doesn't work.

The pattern on the Normal, Fast, Delicate, and Rinse cycle lights (listing below) indicates the selected component. Start/Pause loops the selection through the choices. Keylock turns the selected item On/Off. All tests aren't relevant to all models. Example, the LCD backlight test (1st choice) isn't relevant to an integrated model that doesn't have an LCD. More than one component can be selected together for some test purposes. Such as after filling with water, turn on the lid motors to close the lid (drawer closed of course), then turn on the pump for wash spray. Or turn on the detergent diverter, then turn on the water valve to see the water flow through the main wash cup vs. the prewash cup.

LCD Backlight = Off, Off, Off, On

Heating Element = Off, Off, On, Off (supposed to auto-off after 5 seconds but advised do not run this test without water in the tub to avoid overheating/damage when dry)

Lid Motors = Off, Off, On, On (run for 10 seconds to Close/On, 10 seconds to Open/Off)

Detergent Diverter = Off, On, Off, Off (switches the incoming water flow between the Prewash cup (Off) and Main Wash cup (On).

Fill Valve = Off, On, Off, On

Pump Wash (2300-2850 RPM clockwise) = Off, On, On, Off (drawer must be closed, although my older DD603 will run it with the drawer open)

Pump Drain (4200 RPM counterclockwise) = Off, On, On, On (may time-out after running 255 seconds)

Rinse Aid Dispenser = On, Off, Off, Off (dispenses the set dosage)

Drying Fan = On, Off, Off, On

Rinse Aid & Salt Tank Level LEDs = On, Off, On, Off

Water Softener Diverter Valve = On, Off, On, On

Water Softener Brine Pump = On, On, Off, Off

Water Softener Brine Valve = On, On, Off, On

Water Temperature (°C) = On, On, On, Off (requires LCD pane for number display)

Controller Rail Voltage = On, On, On, On (requires LCD panel for number display)

It will drain but then not click to the next step in the process. It’s like a sensor is not letting it know that it’s empty or the circuit board is damaged at that point. It just continuously tries to drain. This is in fisher paykel bottom drawer. Please help. Thanks!

I’m having problems with the bottom drawer fisher paykel. First won’t drain then will drain but will not stop trying to drain after it has drained. Bottom drawer. It’s like the circuit board is stuck? How do I reset and this please? Thanks a million

@hollyav,

You have a double-drawer unit and only the bottom drawer is exhibiting this problem? The upper drawer works properly? What specific model number is your unit? If the bottom drawer is Off and you start a cycle, it immediately goes into draining and won't quit until you turn it off?

A bit of an update on the problems I discussed earlier with use of the bottom drawer affecting the operation (and particularly the capacitive buttons) in the top.

Having a spare unit, I basically changed everything including the whole carcass and wiring loom, but the problem never went totally away. It also started to report occasional errors (F3 from memory) in the top drawer. Reseating the controller connector that powered the element would fix the problem for a couple of weeks, then it would come back.

This was the hint! After examining the loom connector and the controller socket, I took a stab that the problem was originating in the connector strips on the controller. These are simply tinned solder and not gold plated as I would have expected, and there were obvious tracks where the loom contacts engaged. Also there were signs on one of the looms and a couple of the controllers, that some of these contacts had got hot in the past (the contacts that drive the heater), indicating some poor connections. I retinned all the solder strips on the controller, and, voila, all the problems seem to have disappeared.

I'm still not totally convinced, and keeping my fingers crossed. It's been over a month now without a glitch...

No, in my Dd603 (5 ish years old) only the bottom drawer, once it has drained will not stop draining and move on to the next function
H

Hi Holly - wasn't suggesting that your problem was the same as mine - your note just reminded me to add an addendum to my discussions from a while ago. These washers seem to work fine until they don't!!!

Hollyav,

A DD603 can't be 5 years old unless you bought it used. I have a DD603 bought new in 2003, which makes mine 19 years old later this year (2022). The current models are series 9. There have been several revisions since the 3 series and they don't change every year so a lot of time has passed since 603 was produced.

Regards to your problem ... the bottom drawer starts a cycle ... drains briefly, fills, sprays for the first wash period, then when it drains that first wash water it keeps running the drain function until you manually turn it off? It goes through the same process if you turn it back on and start another run? There's no fault code on the display? How long have you let it go until you turn it off?

Hi dadoes glad to see ur still here hope u have been well I’m back again with an f5 fault on my DD60DCW6 top drawer, it won’t run anymore than 1 min into it’s 11 min rinse cycle (bottom draw is fine) the motors sound like they want to engage but time out. I have removed the drawer to look for obstacles with no luck and the lid arms are still connected to their counter parts and look like they should run smoothly,any ideas would be a great help and much appreciated

F5 is, of course, a lid motor fault. Either one of both of the lid motors are jammed in up or down position, or the controller board for the upper drawer is failed on the lid motor circuit (or maybe a wiring harness problem). Try turning the motor shafts by hand (if they're acessible) to check that the lid can move up/down.

Question for @dadoes who posted information regarding prism location above. Can you explain if the prism is missing how it would be re-installed and what holds it in?

BACKGROUND:

We had a DD24 installed in a new home and when we finally went to use the lower drawer it just chimes and doesn't run. Upper drawer operates fine. We've been working with Paykel on warranty repair, but they've been unable to help with no service provider available in our area. Being handy, I decided to take a look to see if I could find a loose connection or possibly see something awry. When we removed the lower drawer for said inspection a small piece of "plastic" fell to the floor. We thought this was odd but didn't think much of it until stumbling upon this thread. It turns out this plastic piece is the very prism in the picture above. Which no doubt is the source of our problem! So I'm seeking advice to understand how to reinstall/hold it in place... sort of thinking to the reason it might have been dislodged and/or if something might possibly be broken and what workarounds I might be able to implement if something is broken?

The prism snaps into the frame.

hope post still live
Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem on model number DD605H. DOUBEL DRAW the top draw stuck in wash mode wont move on with NO error code . and eventually tripped house circuit in night, reset elect turned on dishwasher and it drained ok , tried again and get stuck in wash mode with no code. rince mode works fine bottom draw works fine

any help apreciated

John Frances,

You may have a failure of the upper drawer heating element. Cycle time is extended as necessary to reach the target temperature (main wash period and final rinse period) for the selected cycle, for as long as 4 hours until the controller times-out on a fault. The Rinse-only cycle doesn't heat.

Thanks for the reply how can inlocate the upper draw heating element, also yesterday the top draw started bleeping and setting itself to wash but not starting this happend when it was switched off dont know if this changes your view of what it might be

thanks

The water heater is a flat ceramic plate that mounts (from beneath) into the bottom of the tub, anchored by the pump/motor assembly. Each drawer has a separate heater plate. It's visible from inside the tub by removing the dish rack, wash arm, pump strainer, and stainless steel filter plate. Considerable further disassembly is necessary, including dismounting the drawer from the outer cabinet and turning it over, to remove the heating element The temperature sensor and a one-shot thermal overheat fuse are integral to the element. Assuming you have a U.S.-market model that runs on 120v power, the element should test 24 ohms resistance +/- 3. The temp sensor should read 12,000 to 10,000 ohms when cool, at room temperature of 68°F to 72°F (resistance decreases as temperature increases ... 8,300 at 86°F, 3,000 at 140°F).

I hope someone can help! i have a Fisher Paykel dishwasher model DD24DCX9N. lighting struck near my home and fried the main control board that operates both drawers. i replaced the main control board and the unit turned on, however, when i try to start a load the lid actuators continously go up and down and wont close. Being that the lids wont close i cant cycle between the top amd bottom drawer…its as if that button doesnt work at all.

"HU-790431869: ... and fried the main control board that operates both drawers. i replaced the main control board and the unit turned on, however, when i try to start a load the lid actuators continously go up and down and wont close."

You're presumably referring to having replaced the motor controller board that mounts in the machine base.

Each drawer also has a wash control board behind its front panel. One or both of those may be also be damaged.