I assume that you mean before the tile is permanently set in place, not when (or if) there is a dry run so to speak to see how the pattern will fit into the space(?) Correct. Would an experienced professional even need to lay out the tiles ahead of time or would they typically proceed directly from prep to installation? Yes and no. Some WILL actually lay them out dry. I've got my own thoughts on that, but however they do it, so long as they show some kind of forethought instead of just finding a corner and starting, they're ahead of the game. What I'll normally do is take several tiles and measure to see what the coursing (one grout joint and one tile) measures. I'll then make a cheat sheet of coursing that comes out somewhere around 2 feet (whether that be 4 6x6, 2 12x12, etc), and then I'll measure around the area, to see how the tile is going to fall. it's from there that I'll decide if I can center the layout, or if there might be a better way, taking into consideration how the tile will hit several different surfaces, and which ones are most obvious in the room. (did you get all that? LOL) With an agreed upon layout in hand, would most experienced installers be able to anticipate potential issues around niches and other elements that could require partial tiles so that you could have a discussion ahead of time as to how they would be handled? before the very first tile gets set, a good installer will know exactly how the tile is going to hit any obstruction in the layout. In fact, I'll grid out the area with chalk lines, and then all my cuts will be made before I set the first piece of tile. but even before the cutting starts, I'll know how big all my cuts will be. Just curious... Do you find that it's best if the homeowner stay available or stay away while you're completing your work? Doesn't matter to me either way. I'd prefer that the customer be available in case of questions that come up, but if they'd like to watch (and I HAVE had several that did) the whole time, they're most welcome to watch. I LOVE playing to an audience!! That's when they see that all this stuff doesn't exactly happen just by "luck"! I know alot of installers who'd rather the customer weren't around, though-- too many questions. Funny thing is, I welcome the questions. To me, the internet has given us the one thing this industry has really needed-- an educated consumer. Not so many fly by nights getting away with their BS any more. And Bill G-- yes-- that's just the labor cost. the retail is MUCH more. Based on 12x12 tyile, a 25 pound bag of grout should grout about 150 sq. feet, for about 15.00- 25.00, depending on the grout. For epoxy, a unit will do about 75 sq. feet, for about 80.00.

Sue Ct - no the $50/sq ft is just the labor to install. The quote was actually $55/sq ft with $5 of it the allowance for tile. I know our tile will be more expensive - so I figured I will just buy it myself and pay only for installation. Now its just the issue of finding someone to install it at a reasonable price Kevin - thanks for the input. Yea, the granite pricing was the thing that really troubled me. As to all tile vs tile and 4" granite slab splash - I was like you - thinking all tile. But one of the KDs has convinced my spouse that it will be easier to clean and that there will be issues with tile to the counter and the grout cracking as the house settles / wall contracts / expands. I do know we have laminate in the kitchen now (no tile, just drywall behind the 4" splash) and there is a slight gap between the laminate splash and the drywall that changes size slightly with the season - so that is what my spouse is worried about. Is there a way to help prevent the grout cracking issue at the counter? Thanks

I've done more tumbled stone backsplashes than any other material. And I CONTINUE to do them, all with no complaints. One contractor in particular-- he lives in the neighborhood he's building. I've done 5 houses for him so far, including his own, all with tumbled marble backsplashes. The oldest one is 3 years old now (his), and I can guarantee you-- as much of a stickler as this guy is if he or his wife had had problems with that backsplash, I'd have heard about it, and his wife's Italian-- always cooking, especially for sunday dinner. Tomato sauce is big in their house. Catch my drift?

Bill! What a timely post this is - I've been meaning to ask you a very similar question. Wish I'd had time to take pictures first. I also have a brick fireplace, unpainted, with a wooden mantle surround. I want to tile it with granite tiles. My questions were: 1. Unmodified thinset or modified? I thought you're supposed to use unmodified with stone, but then again, modified on vertical surfaces. Based on your previous answer, I'm guessing modified? Recommendations? 2. The brick is in pretty good shape and smooth, but of course the mortar lines aren't completely even with the brick. Should there be an attempt to fill in mortar lines first, or skim coat, or should back-buttering be sufficient? 3. Caulk in between the wood mantle and brick portion of the fireplace? I know you're supposed to use caulk between wood and tile due to expansion, but wasn't sure how crucial it would be here. I'm horrible at caulking and want the grout lines and caulk lines as small as possible! 4. here's where I really need to take a picture to illustrate... But I have 7 1/2 inches between the surround and the fireplace opening (no metal insert, nothing like that) and 10 1/2 inches from the mantle bottom to the opening. This should make cutting 12 inch tiles really fun, since I can't use whole ones anywhere! I'm unsure whether to just the front or to go in about three inches inside to cover the side of the front brick, which you can see if you're looking at the fireplace from either side. I guess that's what I need to do, I'm just not sure how! Would I lay down thin strips there and caulk between the planes? Obviously, I don't want to get carried away tiling the inside of the fireplace, but I guess I should cover that red brick that's visible. I wish I had a picture ready so you could help me with layout ideas, LOL. I'm thinking I'll go up the sides and all the way to the top with the same width as the sides, and then cut the few tiles in between either side down so that they're equal. Or should I regard that top section as separate from the sides and cut accordingly? In other words, if the width at top is 50 inches, would you have your left and right tile match the 71/2 side legs or address the sides separately? Which will look better. The mantle is white and this is on a gold wall - I'm thinking maybe black galaxy because the black will look great and the gold should complement the wall well, but maybe it will look too showy and I'd be better with something like absolute black? There's a hearth recessed into the wood floor in front of the fireplace and it's multi-color slate. I'm not sure why I'm not continuing the slate, really. Oh, any recommendations for grout if I do the black galaxy?