I find it odd that Vmski brought up an old thread in order to post for the first time to talk about his/her Viking OTR MW. The sentence "Viking said that was the only microwave that would work" doesn't make sense. Viking doesn't make their own microwave ovens - the Viking MWs are re-badged from another manufacturer, I believe Sharp. So how could it be the "only MW that would work"? Furthermore, an OTR MW should not be put over a high-btu range - the heat will eventually fry the MW's electronics, not to mention that the OTR MW is not up to the task of exhausting high-btu cooking. i totally get that sometimes there is no other space for a MW than over the range. In that case, don't spend double for a Viking badge when the Sharp will work the same, unless the matching badge is important to you, which it is to many people. But then go in with eyes wide open that you are paying up for a badge, and that the exhaust capabilities of any OTR MW are limited, regardless that a Viking salesperson says theirs is "the only MW that would work". That's just not true. It is NOT the only one, and none will work well to exhaust.

normel is right on target. The most important statement: "Installation instructions for OTC microwaves required a dedicated circuit." I feel sure the installation instruction, for your new unit, requires a separate circuit. Doing otherwise will void your warranty unless it is stated in the warranty that the separate circuit is "Recommended". As far as the cost of the installation, always, always, get 3 to even 5 estimates to do the job. That is unless your brother's, cousin's, friend's, husband is a dang good electrician. Without knowing when your house was built, what size service you have, how many breakers (fuses) you have in the existing panel, there's no way to know if you need an upgrade. Again, I recommend a 2nd and 3rd opinion. I doubt seriously that you actually need an upgrade to add this curcuit. If the 240v dryer circuit is not being used, it can be converted to a 120v circuit to be used for your new unit. The dryer outlet, of course, will be removed and a blank plate installed. This method should save you considerably if the outlet or the wiring is easily accessible. If it's on an outside wall, it will be much more difficult, but should still cost less than running a new circuit.

Add me to the list of frustrated OTR microwave owners. I had to laugh/wince when I read the above comment by a fellow GE owner that theirs "doesnt even have enough bottom suction to hold a piece of paper up against the bottom intake vents," because that's exactly the experiment I've done. Mine is set to vent to the outside too (in a condo) rather than recirculate, which is ultimately just a giant waste of the cabinet above my microwave. Mine's a GE Profile PVM9195SFSS with a 400 CFM blower and a "Boost" mode. Boiling a pot of water results in nearly all of the steam going straight up, with some of it condensing on the front of the microwave and the rest going toward the ceiling. A friend of mine with a GE had her front control panel go out, and the technician said that's a common problem due to...yep, you guessed it. Condensation. For a truly miserable experience, anything seasoned with a little oil on a skillet spreads noxious fumes throughout my condo. The whole place stays hazy for half an hour or more. One trick I've learned that helps just a little bit is to open the microwave door when venting. More steam gets sucked INTO the microwave and then up and out than ever gets sucked up from the underside. I have an extended warranty, and I've thought about calling a repair technician, but based on what you all have said, that sounds like a waste. When I had a small dishwasher issue, the technician ended up doing more damage the first time than he fixed, so I'm wary.

I like your attitude and advice, Jancy. I do love my choice of countertop (Silestone Cemento Suede), which I paired with natural cherry shaker cabinets (3" wide rails and stiles) with orb hardware. I was going for a simple, warm modern farmhouse look. The kitchen is around 7' x 12." Three straight sides, no corner cabinets: a pantry wall with fridge (approximately 7'), an island with sink (approximately 7'), and a wall with range and otr microwave in the middle (approximately 7'). So my range wall is of similar length as yours, Jancy (90'). That wall is the only one with a backsplash and like you, I didn't want to deal with grout. I also liked the simplicity of the full-height backsplash... and, as a bonus, I had the extra material available from the countertop slabs, so I only needed to pay a bit extra for installation. Also, another consideration is that the kitchen is part of a great room and is visible as soon as you walk in the door, so it felt as if the stone backsplash would give the cabinet more of the look of furniture. I definitely don't want tile (even though I said earlier that might be an option). I would consider a stainless steel plate with brushed finish because it feels as if that would tie the range and microwave together... as if they were all one unit. However, the wall may be too short and the stainless too industrial for the look I'm going for. I do know however that I will not be happy if the stone gets chipped if I have to replace the microwave. In answer to your question, prosource, I believe the microwave will be fairly level with the bottom of the cabinets. The opening is 18" high and the microwave is 17 1/2" high. Also, I don't want to get off subject, but at some point, Jance, I would be very interested in knowing if you used plug mold and, if so, what kind. Or did you put outlets in backsplash? All thoughts welcome.