The curb should have been slightly pitched back into the shower, so the installer can assume a bit of responsibility there. However, some architects do specify level curbs when dealing with low-clearance frameless doors. So it could depend on how it was spec'd out or drawn by the architect or designer.

As to the door installers being at fault, if the door is properly sized, with proper clearance, and set at a reasonable position along the top of the curb, I'm not sure where they bear responsibility, especially if they followed the plans as drawn.

Who designed the shower...the dimensios of the shower along with the location of the spray heads and the direction of spray in relation to the door/curb? Also do the plans specify the amount of setback between the door and the inside face of the curb (meaning, how much of the curb width is "inside" the door and how much is "out"?).

There are low profile silicon (or other material) thresholds/dams that can go on the curb, as well as sweeps that can go on the bottom of the door that will provide a better seal.

Regardless, contact your GC. Your GC is the one responsible for taking care of this. That's what he gets paid for.

Mongo

Thanks for the input, Mongo! I designed the shower by drawing a floorplan of the room on graph paper (very low tech!) and gave the general specs to my GC. He oversaw the construction, tile work, plumbing, door measurements, etc. There was no professional drawing of the shower done.

The door guy says that they can order a dam/threshold like you describe, but they think the problem is more in the design of the curb than with the door itself.

I have included some pictures so you maybe you can see what you think about how we can get this fixed. (My husband is avoiding using this shower because the floor is soaked after he uses it - even without using the two jets on the shower console). We spent too much money on this shower to not be able to use it!

Thanks so much for your input!

Here is a link to some pics: http://s266.photobucket.com/albums/ii272/erin2553/Bathroom%20Shower/

Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:1466278}}

The problem with a Kerdi shower is that it's difficult to pop tile off the membrane after the thinset has cured without damaging the membrane, so resetting the curb to have proper pitch back to the shower isn't a simple repair.

That said...it's still up to the GC to provide remediation.

If you want a pitched curb, tell him so. It's between him and the tiler to make things right, and not at your expense.

If you can settle for a dam on the curb, the only warning I'll give is that if water is pooling on the curb, it'll still be pooling there with a dam, so you might end up wiping it down with a towel after each shower.

You could opt for a dam to see how it works out with the option of going with a rebuild of the curb if the dam doesn't suit you.

And a common come back from the tiler is "The Schluter curb isn't pitched, the top is flat."

So?

Some guys shave the curb to have a pitch, some just add extra thinset under one side of the tile to pitch the tiles.

Whatever agreement you come to, consider putting it in writing, especially since this had turned into a "he said, she said" blame game.

And no worries on your low-tech design methods. I laid out the floor plans and basic elevations of this house with sidewalk chalk on a driveway.

Thanks again, Mongo. THAT is one beautiful house!! Who needs hi-tech?

erin2553: What did you do? I know this post is 2 years old, but you've left us hanging. You did a great job on the home.
At the beginning of this post, you asked who to blame?
For my 2cents worth, I'd place most of the fault on the designer, because you didn't include a drain outside the shower stall. If there were a floor drain outside the pan, water spray, or leaking under the glass wouldn't be a problem.
Don't feel bad, because this floor drain is overlooked by even the best designers. There are some almost clear plastic moldings that will create seal between the glass and the wall tiles, and others will act as a jamb where the 2 panes meet.
If the width of the curb is 2" from the glass to the pan edge, I may have a simple solution for the water that is pooling and the problem you will have when you open the wet door, which is water running onto the floor.
I've been working on this problem for a while now, and I've developed a Door Drip Rail (do a search) to fix it, but shower stall companies and installers toss me out, and they say you don't want a 2" piece of plastic on the bottom of your expensive new custom shower stall.
Good luck,