The size of the equipment really tells you what kind of electric is needed. I assume we're not talking about giant pond, so the UV would under 50 watts, maybe way under. A pump, say around 4000 GPH might be 350-400 watts. LED lights don't use very many watts unless you're adding a ton. A regular household electric line is 15 amps which means about 1500 watts can be drawn thru it before the breaker trips. You'd probably be way under that. You also have the option to run a little thicker wire so you can draw 2000 watts before the breaker trips, so more things could be hooked up. That all depends on whether the wire being run is from an existing wire, like a current outdoor outlet, or the new wire goes all the way back to the electric panel (where the breakers are, "new circuit"). When extending a circuit you have to consider all the items plugged into all the outlets on that circuit. I have one house where both bath outlets are on the same 15 amp circuit as all the outdoor outlets, and also the bath lights (1978 house) so all are protected by a single GFI. Today's hair dryers are 1500 watts so that circuit is maxed out just by a single hair dryer...with the lights off. The number of outlets is pretty cheap and easy to add. One box with 4 plugs vs 2 is like maybe $10 difference in parts if that, tiny bit more labor if any. Also easy to add more outlets later. What's expensive is running the conduit and wire. That's what you want to get right. A good electrician will look at how many outlets are already on the circuit before deciding whether it can be extended. Code limits the number of outlets each type of circuit (15 & 20 amp). That's a little misleading because the number of outlets doesn't actually mean anything, only what is plugged in. For example plugging tuning on two 1500 watt hair dryers will trip 15 or 20 amp circuit. But code had to draw the line some place going by normal use. They didn't want builders to make houses with every outlet in a house on a single 15 amp circuit because that's misleading. People really into ponds and lots of fish will run at least 2 new circuits. Pump is plugged into one and maybe air pump in another. If one circuit trips...and they do...the other would keep water moving and fish alive. In most normal type Water Gardens that isn't needed imo, but that's your choice to make. GFIs do fail sometimes. Like maybe 25% of the time in the first 5 years, at least that's been my experience for Water Gardens. Meaning they trip off and won't come one on, or trip a lot. If you run 2 circuits you only have to move the pump to the other circuit and you're running again. The tripped/broken breaker is safe so no be hurry to get it fixed. So 2 circuits have some other advantages. Even the smallest conduit can support at least 2 circuits, so that shouldn't be an issue, although labor for running a second circuit later kind be a lot.. For a new circuit there's a question of whether your panel has openings for 1 or 2 new circuits. If that's good the cost is for the extra wire and an extra breaker. Wire isn't dirt cheap, but the labor should be a ton more for 2 circuits. Really just depends on your desires and budget.

I don't believe there is a way to hook up two modems to the wiring and have them function independently. You might be able to use one in a "repeater" mode, though, and that could possibly be done wirelessly. There are also specific repeater devices you can get to extend the signal, and that might be easier to do. I suggest you contact the manufacturer of your modem to ask what is possible with that specific model, and whether they sell a repeater device that would be easier to set up than a second router. By the way, have you confirmed that the streaming does not work well, or is that just a statement in the manual? By the way, I have a similar situation. I have a DSL modem with a 3MB signal that is connected to a router in an upstairs closet; my tv system is in the living room downstairs. I have an older DVD player without a streaming capability, but wanted to be able to stream Netflix movies. I bought the Roku wireless device that Netflix sells, plugged it in to the back of my tv as an additional input, and set up the connection in about 2 minutes. I am able to get maximum quality every time I use it unless someone else is using a computer in another part of the house, in which case picture quality drops down a little.

thanks everyone. I'd really like to find out about the code issue. Angie DIY, what is a daisy chained extension cord? Is that the name for what I am thinking of? I have a peninsula now but thinking the semi-mobile island might work better esp if I can have an outlet on it that plugs into the floor so that it can be moved the once every few years that large furniture has to go in and out of the basement. The floor outlets I have seem are brass and pretty much flat to the floor ; I don't consider them unsightly and in this case they would be mostly covered by the island 99.9 percent of the time. If I hid the wheels with a baseboard apron on the island I wouldn't really have to worry about cleaning under the island either. To bypass the daisy chain question for inspection, could I just have a mobile island over the floor outlet without an outlet actually on the island, and add it afterwards?

"An electrical device needs to be plugged into a stand alone surge protector (ie, not one installed as part of a structure's electrical feed) to have protection. Something that's plugged in elsewhere is, well, plugged in elsewhere." This is partially incorrect. Whole house surge protection protects every appliance within the house from external surges passing the protection device on service entry wiring (within its performance limits) and aids protection of devices within the house from surges generated within the house limited only by the various inductances of the wiring between the source of the surge, the device to be protected, and the surge protector as a function of the rise time of the surge waveform. Where other conductors besides the service wiring enter the house, additional surge protection against local lightening is also desirable due to this inductance. Stand-alone surge protection may help protect circuits close to them depending on how well they react and the bonding impedance to whatever counts as a true ground (water pipes and grounding rods, but not necessarily when a strike is nearby). Dealing with multiple current paths such as TV cables, ethernet cables, intercom cables, and telephone lines can be complex. A local surge suppressor may be configured to minimize voltage between hot and neutral, but the pair may rise in voltage together relative to some other attached cable, still allowing damage. Nearby lightening can induce currents into wiring as common-mode transients. Roam around the https://tpssurge.com/ website for indications of how far one can go in bounding a residence with protection. tl;dr: a local stand-alone surge protector may be insufficient in some cases, and a service entry (whole house) surge protector may be sufficient in other cases.