You will want to layout the bolts so that they miss the layout of the trusses. Whenever possible, you should never let the bolts into the sill plate, but have the washer /nut on the full 1-1/2" of the sill plate. I generally set the bolts at 2-1/4" above the concrete giving you 3/4" bolt above the sill plate to accept the washer/nut. You also want to make sure the bolts wont interefere with any blocking between the trusses and consider any special openings you might have between the trusses for any mechanicals.

A 1/2" -5/8" x 10" j-bolt is typically standard and in your case if you are using 8" block, with a 10" j-bolt, you wont have to be concerned with the bottom of the bolt hitting the course of block under the top layer where the sill plate is attached.

"You will want to layout the bolts so that they miss the layout of the trusses."

One of those little details that occasionally gets missed by a neophyte.

You usually end up with a few more than the minimum allowed, but it is still cheaper than coming back with a rotary-hammer and setting anchors.

A little bit less expensive optiion to prefabricated "J" bolts is to use all threaded rod and cutting it to length. Because the rods are threaded all the way, there is plento of surfact area to "hold" them in place.

Thanks for all the great help. I will get the 5/8 X 10" and install.

A" little bit less expensive optiion to prefabricated "J" bolts is to use all threaded rod and cutting it to length. Because the rods are threaded all the way, there is plento of surfact area to "hold" them in place."

The threads do not provide adequate holding strength in concrete.
J-bolts are code in most places.

I plan on using the code J-bolts... but what if someone where to add a few very long threaded rods to go into the concrete and then up through the wall up to the top plate? The idea being to tie the plate to the concrete?

Just an idea....

There should be a continuous load path from the foundation to the top of the house to strengthen any wood to wood, metal to wood, etc type of connections. See the attached link for a diagram.

While it is usually code to do this at the connections a continuous metal path is not required as structural wood members don't typically break in half, they fail at the connections/joints. Example being that wall studs don't break typically break in half, the failure may occur at the stud to top plate connection.

Metal strapping is less expensive than threaded rods & easier to install so I'm not sure why anyone would use threaded rods.

The j-bolts secure the sill plate to the foundation, strapping secures the wall studs to the sill plate, strapping secures the wall studs to the top plates, hurricane ties secure the rafters to the top plates, and so on.

Mike

Here is a link that might be useful: Strong-Tie flyer

If you place the bolts every 7' they will never interfere with 16" oc layout of joists, until the one at 84' from the corner; shift that one 8" to one side.
Casey

As stated above, most codes require the anchor bolts every 6'.

Mike

Thanks Mike..... but now I have a new concern to keep me up nights:

"Many of the new Pressure Treated Woods use chemicals that are corrosive to steel. By selecting connectors that offer greater corrosion resistance (Stainless Steel, Post Hot-Dip Galvanized,or ZMAXÂ) you can extend the service life of your connectors. However, corrosion will still occur. You should perform periodic inspection of your connectors and fasteners to insure their strength is not being adversely affected by corrosion."

Does a black market still exist for the old style treated lumber?

How do you inspect connectors hidden in a wall?

Terry

Terry, You might consider using redwood for your sill plates but check in with your locals to see if it is allowed. Out here in ca. you can use redwood or pressure treated. Redwood wont corrode your fasteners/ hold downs/connectors.

Redwood? Never thought of that. I don't think it's marketed here in Mississippi. Perhaps it can be ordered/shipped... but would it be terribly expensive?

Bald cypress would work as well, I suppose?

2x6's are availble?

I'll gladly pay 2 or 3 times the price of treated for Redwood sill plates, if it allows me to sleep at night ... instead of tossing and turning, listening for phantom sounds of corrosion. Thanks!