One more update .. I finally got some peaches on my "Peento". This is a flat peach variety imported many years ago from China and in the ARS collection. Well, they are excellent!! They are a touch better than Saturn and more importantly to me at this point, no rot at all! They are right next to my Sweet Bagel which still has a long way to go to ripening but already is getting a few rotted fruits every time I look at it. So, based on only one year Peento is in the lead for the best flat peach race. Saturn is probably fine in a commercial spray program but doesn't seem so good in the backyard of a humid climate. Peento has better flesh as well as taste, the Saturn can be a bit stringy and quickly softening and the Peento seems more like a normal peach. Quite a few of the newer flat peaches were bred from Saturn and I expect that is why so many of them have rot problems. Looking into the ancestry, Saturn is a cross of Pallas and NJ602903; the latter is a cross of Golden Globe and R1T6, and R1T6 in turn is a cross of .. Peento and Early Hale. So this Peento is a great-grandparent of Saturn and only 1/8 of the genes. Pallas has been bad for rot for me so that may be a source. Scott

I read the A&M link. It wouldn't be the first time A&M was wrong about something. Plus they're about as Agri-business as you can get. Their testing of organic methods is often suspect. Their conclusion about the ineffectiveness of Milky Spore could be simply because they didn't account for it's 2-3 year establishment time. I have no proof about the effectiveness of Milky Spore. I applied it at the proper time according to instructions about 25 years ago. I haven't had noticeable grub damage in my lawn since then. Maybe it's luck, or it's attributable to other factors or methods. A few of those years I treated the lawn for fleas, but most years not. I live in South Texas with alkaline clay soil. The only thing milky spore or lawn insecticide treatments can be expected to do is to kill the larvae in the soil. The adults are not feeding when you see them bouncing off your exterior lights or your forehead. They lay their eggs and then die. The prime time to treat them is as soon as you stop seeing them around your outdoor lights. They've laid their eggs and died. The larvae are near the surface, small, and tender. When I dig in my yard, I often see a few grubs. The thing to remember is that, regardless of what control method you use, you can never kill them all. The only time you won't see grubs is when they turn into adults and come out of the ground to fly around bouncing off of things till they lay eggs and die. rangier

To soundproof your room you will need to use a combination of materials. The following video link is a brief demonstration on blocking sound: http://acousticsfirst.com/educational-videos-the-barrier-and-the-bell.htm We use a mass loaded vinyl called BlockAid. (http://acousticsfirst.com/blockaid-vinyl-sound-barrier.htm) This can be added to structural composites to increase mass without loosing valuable space and can be used in conjunction with resilient channel, isolation hangers and acoustical sealant. Always line cavities with insulation. This prevents resonant frequencies from ringing in the cavities and increases the STC (Sound Transmission Loss). To keep structural noise from transmitting through the structure, be sure to isolate materials using resilient clips or resilient channels. Sound and noise can be transmitted structurally through any materials that touch without some type of resilient material between them. Once your structure is complete, you can use acoustical treatments within your music room to absorb sound and improve the quality of sound in the room. Even though acoustical panels do not block sound, they will help reduce the overall sound pressure in the room, much like the fiberglass batting that is used with the barrier material in the video. A drywall ceiling may sag if the contractor did not use drywall meant for ceiling applications. Be sure to check with material supplies to confirm that you have the correct material for your application. Here is a link that might be useful: Soundproofing Demonstration

I am not an 18 year veteran of the solar attic however I had a PCS3 from 2002 till last year. I have owned a Solar Attic system. I purchased it from solar Attic directly around 2002 I owned rental property so I had the advantage of having the maintenance people to assist me in the Installation. I talked directly with the engineer/owner/designer of the system. He was and has been very helpful over the years. As a matter of fact I emailed with him just a few day ago. OUR INSTALLATION We build a pan 4 inches deep and 6 inches larger than the PCS3 system all the way around. We equipped it with a 2 inch drain which we eventually put a cut off on in that we had a float switch system cutoff that was in parallel with the emergency cut off in side the PCS3. The reason we put a cut off and an additional emergency float switch was that the longer I thought about it having the system pump 25000 gallons of water into the catch pan with a two inch drain would not be able to remove water fast enough than it would be better to just have the system shut down so the issue could be corrected. We mounted the unit about 5 feet off of the attic decking to get it as high and in the hottest area as possible. That installation we did with rigid 2" pvc We had 2 90 degree elbows and a total of 5 joints that got the water out of the attic. In the beginning I had some of the same concerns that have been brought up here about a possible leak however considering the fact that almost all of the water pipes in this house are PVC as are 99% of all of the water pipes in all of the houses built in america are PVC and the fact that the water pressure in the solar attic system is as I understand it less than the pressure that your home water system has a leak is not very likely. OK, so here we go. We had to pump the water up 2 stories. In that this was a close loop system with strategic check valves our concern for the 1.5 HP (up rated) pump being able to move the water was quickly retired as soon as we started the system. No problem. Great flow. The quality of the product was good. The unit was well designed, thought out and put together. The only moving part on the system was a GE electric motor that could be manually adjusted from low to medium to high speed. This would change the flow of the air over the heat exchanger. I came set on medium an after 5 years of messing with the speed it is now set on medium. We used their electronic control system which consisted to a electric control valve and an electronic controller that detected the temperature in the attic and the temperature of the pool water. If the attic got to be 5 to 10 degrees warmer than the pool water the unit would come on and stay on till the water got warmer than the set point. We had system on a time and regardless of how the system was set we turned the pool pump off at 11PM and on at 9AM In 2015 we sold that house and the solar attic system went along with it. Our new home has a slightly smaller pool and an electric heat pump from heat siphon(325Kbtu) system. We are thinking of installing a solar attic PCS3 in conjunction with the electric heat pump. The cost to run the PCS3 is about $10 per month for the GE Fan motor. My electric bill for the Heat Siphon is $300 plus per month. As I am writing this the time is 2:36P EST in Atlanta Georiga. The outside temperature is 73F Degrees and the attic Temperature is 105F. At this rate we would have in our house that had the Solar attic system have turned the system on at this point. This would have started the heating process. Unlike electric or gas systems where the heat will start immediately the solar attic system will raise the temperature however this is over a period of time. If you installed a solar attic system in July and started it up on July 4th you probably would not see the water temperature rise quickly. I would say it would talk a week or more to bring the temperature to its set point. My current pool is a free form pebble tec with about 15,000 gals of water. With a solar attic system if it operates as my last system did I will have the largest hottub in the north Atlanta are. It can and will bring the water temperature to 95 degrees. My wife likes warm water. As I see it the biggest draw back is the price. If the system were priced in the $2000 range, for the basic system and $2500 range for the full electronic system this would be a product everyone would have like a salt system or LED lighting. A $2000 adder to you Aquilink system is small dollars with a great reward.