Went to Curtis myself. Parsley & basil can be purchased now and repotted as can other herbs. Oregano? I'd wait until May 1st to be sure. Plant in composted soil, but not manure. Strawberries would be great in strawberry pots. Just make certain, depending on exposure, that you have a watering program because caontainers will dry out faster then in the ground plants. Stake your tomatoes and make certain you have plenty of room for vines to grow. Here is a link that might be useful: Propagating Perennials

I can give you some idea of costs of the HFGH. Can't tell you how much time to put it together -- we're retired and work at a slower pace. Reading posts here on how others put their together will definitely be helpful. I didn't document the details of building because it had already been done so well. We did put the roof on piece by piece rather than as the instructions directed. Can you imagine two old people on ladders struggling with an unwieldy aluminum structure eight feet in the air? Additional purchases for HFGH reinforcement: Spring Clips -- $10.95 Bolts -- 15.96 Bolts -- 24.27 Aluminum tape 19.94 Aluminum piece 10.98 Straps 9.44 Wafer Screws 7.97 Clamps 4.67 -- a cost of about $105.00 US. The following would be necessary for any greenhouse set up that we might have used, not just the HFGH: Treated lumber for base and hardware for assembly Ground Fault outlets Water pump Drum fittings and hoses Hoses Elec. Box and Breakers Wire -- we already had wire -- that's another hundred. Outlet boxes Duplex boxes, recept. covers Conduit Water Valve Pipe and fittings Temperature Gauge Water Drums Adding this doubled the cost of the HFGH. I have not included the cost of buying or building benches, patio pavers for the paths and barrel support, nor the cost of a heater (we already have heaters), nor the cost of shading. Everybody's mileage will vary because of regional differences, personal needs and individual ideas on how this should be done. I hope this gives you a general idea of what to expect. Nell Here is a link that might be useful: Greenhouse

Hello Broncosfan, Your 3 amp charging system has a two wire connector that plugs into a two wire connector on the tractor. One wire from the engine is DC power - equipped with a diode. The diode prevents battery voltage from flowing back to the engine and discharging the battery. The other wire is the AC power that feeds the headlight switch. The 9 amp system has a one wire connector that delivers DC voltage. The tractor two wire connector will not plug into the replacement engine without some type of modification that connects the engine DC wire to the Tractor DC wire. If you attempt this, do not wire in the original diode as it is not needed. After connecting the DC to DC wire, you will need a power source for the tractor AC wire. One solution is to connect this wire to the DC power. I suggest installing a fuse at the connection point. The real problem with this modification is the possibility of dead batteries if the headlight switch is left in the "on" position. My recommendation is to select a Briggs replacment engine. Transfer the original charging system to the new engine.

Thanks Palimpsest for blowing it up and commenting and to other for their comments. I've been away but got together w/ and architect last week. Surprised at the estimate - $6000 for design/plans/working w/ city - permits. Is that in the range for a basic second floor addition to a 750sq ft house? Palimpsest - both 1st floor windows will be partially overshadowed by a front porch with sloping roof (this roof helps disguise the brick to siding transition and "heavy" look of the second floor being bigger than the first (taller due to running floor joists over existing trusses (sorry if my terms are wrong).