Racing Red Induction
luv2putt
11 years ago
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dodge59
11 years agolast modified: 9 years agormtdoug
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Griddle for Induction... HELP!
Comments (54)vickinbobyo -- Are you looking for a griddle (flat surface for pancakes etc.) or a grill pan (ridged surface pan used for high termperature searing and leaving grill marks akin to what you might see from an outdoor bbq-grill)? As for the Viking manual, some four years ago, Luv2Putt reported here that all cast iron cookware worked excellently on his Viking induction range. For a search, try going to google/ask/etc. and using "gardenweb + racing red induction + Luv2Putt" for a search string. It has long been known that this particular passage in Viking's manual was hooey. At one time, VIking tried to justify this passage by having some marketeer opine that cast ron is dangerous because it gets hot and stays hot for a long time. The Schott ceramic/glass top is designed for thermal shocks of up to 750°. That's way above the melting temperature of lead. Maybe you want to braze metal rather than braise or sear food? Nobody should be cooking at such a high temperature on a residential range. The safety circuits in induction burners should shut off well before that temperature is reached. That will happen whether the pan is cast iron, carbon steel, stainless steel, or multiply-stainless with aluminum or copper layers. That passage in the Viking manual was written by somebody with no idea of how induction works. Also, likely written because VIking's marketeers got gun-shy from having previously marketed a very expensive portable countertop induction burner with the utterly peculiar inability to work with enameled cast iron cookware from Le Crueset and Staub. Those very well-regarded pans and griddles worked (and work) very well on every other induction burner known. (FWIW, Viking out-sourced its now long discontinued portable from the Luxine Co., now a Vollrath subsidiary. The current Vollrath portable units do not exhibit the LC/Staub peculiarity, btw.) But if the "no cast iron" that passage in Viking's manual still makes you nervous, look for "carbon steel" grill pans and or any of the other alternatives suggested above....See MoreDidn't like cleaning ceramic glass cooktop...induction??
Comments (28)To start with, this is enough off topic that you might not get as wide a range of answers and attention as you would if you posted a new thread with this question. Please understand that I am not telling you to go away; I'm only telling you that a new thread might get your clearer and better informed answers to your specific questions. Okay, that having been said, it seems to me that maybe you need to have oven temperature control and cycling explained so that we can rule out or rule in the possibility that the microprocessors have been toasted by the self-cleaning cycle. First thing is this: oven preheat signals are lies, pure and simple. They only measure the air temperature in the oven but what you need for even and proper baking is to fully preheat the cavity (oven walls, celing, floor, etc.) That takes longer than the "preheat." In most ovens (including those in GE Profile ranges) "fast preheating" is advertising hype and bragging rights, not reality. Here's how an oven works, electric ovens in particular. (I say all of this from having owned and used a GE Profiile DF range for a decade and something. If you already know this, then just take this as putting us all on the same page for discussion.) You turn the oven on and set the temperature dial/touchpad to say, 350F. With an electric oven, and some gas ovens, both the top (broiler) and bottom (baking) elements come on. (And, with some newer convection ovens, the rear "convection" element also may come on.) The air temperature climbs and the walls etc. also start to heat up. When the air temp hits 350F, the sensor says the oven is preheated. Except that it is not. Most of baking is actually done with ehat radiating from the walls fof the oven cavity, not the air termperature. (Mhyrvold's Modernist Cusine website and book explain this in great technical detail if you want the geeky details.) What actually happens is that the bottom and top burners continue running until the actual air temp climbs a lot. In your case, it apparently climbs another 50F. Then (hopefully) it shuts off. Trouble is, if you put your baked goods into the oven when the preheat signal goes off, the top burner is still hot and likely is still operating. At this point, you might as well put your pie, your roast, your whatever under the broiler. The top will burn. OTOH, if you wait a few more minutes after the air temp hits the programmed max and the burners shut off. The air temp starts to fall, Your oven cavity's walls are picking up heat and catching up with the air temp but are not there yet. Another four or five minutes -- maybe ten with some ovens -- and the air temp falls to 325F or even 300F. One or more burners come on again. And, once again, the temp goes above your set point. It might go 50F above or it might go a bit less this time. My vintage 2000 GE Profile DF would go 50F above and then drop 50 below, then go 40 above, then cool to 40 below, then go 30F above and below. As best I could tell, the top element was used only in the initial run up but your newer stove may do this a bit differently. It would cycle maybe 25F above and below using only the bottom and convection heating elements, After about 30 minutes, it would reach a sort of equlibrium and the temperature would average around the set-point. Basically, most ovens take 20 to 30 minutes to actually stabliize at a baking temprerature. Now, if your oven is now running 50F above the set point, but not otherwise failing to work, it is possible that the observed symptom would have been the result of damage caused by the self-cleaning cycle but not probable. My experience is that when something goes wrong from overheating during or as a result of a self-cleaning cycle, the failure is typically catstrophic. Such as, the oven stops working altogether. To me, a more likely and simpler culprit is that the oven calibration has drifted. Is the oven running consistently 50F over the set point after a 20 to 30 preheat? If the oven is consistently too hot (after giving it at least half an hour to properly preheat), then I would look at the use and care guide in the section on adjusting the oven termperature settings. Hope this helps get your started o sorting out the problem. This post was edited by JWVideo on Mon, Feb 10, 14 at 13:12...See MoreViking dishwasher?
Comments (10)The promo is national and it shows on Viking's web site. I wound up buying the induction range (stainless) in Minnesota for $7079. It just came last week and I almost immediately went out of town so have barely used it. My pans (All-clad D5s) do hum a little, but it did not seem to be an issue. I did get and install the FDW100 dishwasher. I ran it three times - one to clear it out and twice with dishes. Maybe also a quick wash before I left. It is considerably louder than my old Bosch. It cleaned well - maybe slightly less than the Bosch, but the dishes were wetter when the cycle was finished. I never used heated dry and don't think it was an option on either. The plastic was always wet with the Bosch, but even glass seems wet with this. I added a little rinse aid and it seems to help. I am concerned with the buttons on the dishwasher. I have had some trouble getting them to work and they look like they will break easily. My biggest concern is that I wrote to Viking a full week ago but have not yet received a response. I installed the dishwasher myself and the trim that goes between the cupboard and dishwasher was twisted so it did not stick. I also was unsure of how to remove some of the oven racks. Actually, I think it looks like they should remove easily, but I have yanked on them without any luck and I wanted to make sure I didn't miss anything. I got an instant "we received your e-mail", but no answers. That looks like pretty bad customer service to me....See MoreViking range switch to Samsung induction? Reliability?
Comments (32)I just got my new samsung model NE599 on wed. I had used the oven once, one flex 9" burner once, the rear burner twice. Was making a large pot of soup yesterday on the 11" front power boost burner and it tripped the 40 amp breaker. Went down and tripped the breaker back and an error 84 appeared. Looked at the manual in trouble shooting did what it said. (leave breaker off for 30-40 sec and turn back on) same thing er-84 tried 3 times. Called samsung they kept asking us to look for a button that was not there. There were 3 adults looking for this button there was no such button. After keying in "problems with samsung induction model NE599 " into google, I came across several posts were people have had problems with the unit, as well as their facebook page which had several posts about appliances breaking down and samsung taking a long time to send out a service tec and to get parts. I spent a week here on GW going through induction posts before making my decision, really didn't want to spend 3k on a range so samsung was within that range. This model had everything I wanted the boil alert, duo flex top, flex oven. But after reading these posts I'm hoping that my retailer will take it back and that samsung will reimburse them. Really am heart broken about this but I don't want to be without a range for 2 weeks or more while samsung tries to fix it....See Morelbpod
11 years agolast modified: 9 years ago2LittleFishies
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