Updated Architect Floor Plans! PLEASE give feedback!
AllieBr8
11 years ago
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AllieBr8
11 years agoredheadeddaughter
11 years agoRelated Discussions
Please give your feedback for the floor plan
Comments (20)If stairs go down to the basement, what ceiling height are you planning for the basement? And what size (thickness will floor joists be? Also, will there be any other access to the basement to allow you to bring any necessary furniture to the basement without going down those stairs? Since stairs going down into a basement are not typically used as a focal point feature, do you really want to have the top of the stairs open up into the front foyer? It might make more sense (space usage wise) to have a door going down to the basement located in the great room. That way your staircase would only need one L-turn landing near the bottom of the stairs. A landing for an L-turn on a 3 ft wide stair case takes up a 3x3 space. Straight run staircases uses available space most efficiently. Either way, I think you're still going to have an uncomfortably steep staircase but you can probably build one within code IF your floor to floor measurement between basement and first floor is no more than 9 ft. Second issue: Although I totally understand the increased sense of privacy gained by having the twisty hall way leading to the master bedroom, have you consider how difficult that is going to make the process of moving furniture into the bedroom? Issue 3: Is that meant to be a fireplace on the right hand great room wall? If so, it looks like the allocated space is only about 24 to 30 inches. That is not enough for even a very small fire place. Do some research on "firebox" dimensions and then keep in mind that you also have to provide enough space around the firebox for fireproof insulation. You simply can't put wood framing right up next to a firebox... not even a gas fireplace. I suspect that once you widen that space to accommodate the size fireplace you want, you're not going to be happy with what that does to your master bath and master closet. Speaking of masterbath, those two vanity sinks are scrunched awfully close together. Most people want a double-sink vanity to be about 72 inches wide. Otherwise if two people are trying to get ready at the same time, they are constantly bumping elbows. Plus, with a narrower space, there is no room to set down hair curlers, make up, electric toothbrush, electric razor, etc. Finally, I think you mentioned early on that you wanted an "accessible" design. If by that you mean you want at least one bathroom to be wheelchair accessible, then you need to rethink at least one of your bathrooms. None of your bathrooms, as currently designed, is at all accessible. An accessible bathroom has to provide enough free floor space for a wheelchair to turn completely around. That typically means 5 ft diameter circle of free floor space at a minimum. You also have to make sure that there is room enough next to the toilet to park a wheel chair while the occupant transfers him/herself to the toilet and room in front of the vanity for the wheel chair to roll in under the sink allowing the occupant to wash his/her hands while seated in the wheelchair. If you're serious about making the house accessible, while you're doing research, you might want to read up on accessibility design a bit....See MoreHome Plan - please give feedback (pic included)
Comments (24)I too was a little "eh" on the exterior until i saw it in a book (where they got the basic design from). Then it looked a lot better. I would still like some "umph" added to it but i'm not sure how far i'm going to get with this architect. He's really great - but doesn't seem too willing to change the exterior. And as much as it might not be super perfect for me/us, it is really nice. And since this isn't our forever home, i'm not sure i'm willing to shop this around to see if someone can do better. I think I will just settle and create a nice paint scheme and exterior lighting. That might help a lot. thanks for all of the comments! I stare at this plan every waking moment thinking through how we use our current space and how we would use this new space. Stuff like where I put my glasses when I shower and will I have a similar spot in the new design. Or the fact that my husband often comes home from business trips at 3am...how can I leave a light on for him that won't disturb me, then how does he shut it off without walking through a dark house to get to our room. We have solutions for these two in particular, but it's these little every day inconveniences that make or break a space for me! Oh - and another one...we created the exterior door to the porch in our master bedroom. But if we have a house alarm, we really need a panel in our room. Otherwise, I have to leave the room, turn off the alarm, then go back in to go outside?!? Uh - no...if I have to do all of that, I might as well exit the house somewhere else! Again, it's these little things that are the things I hope we don't miss!!...See MoreMoved: Architect Challenges & Plan feedback
Comments (16)Pixie...you make a good point on the Pinterest side...it was more visual and with a lot of interiors to give a sense of style...but I did include a 17 different pictures/plans of old houses (although no farmhouses until this week, as pictures of old farmhouses that are 'unmuddled' were hard to come by on the web). I did give him a rather long list of prioritized architectural 'requirements' (on the first day...I'll upload those to the same site that is hosting all the plans) and the absolute and high priority items here. These were my 'absolutes' A. Add collar ties to attic joists B. Pull down attic access to use attic for storage C. Add attic ventilation E. 220v electric in basement for Euro Washer F. Shore up cracked main beam & replace rusty supports H. Add support alongside basement stairs I. Get rid of seepage in basement corner J. Replace missing joist cross braces in basement . Install full code compliant bathroom (gutted right now) N. Better heat dissipation upstairs O. Room for my DR table (seats 10) P. Add heat to DR Q. Fix side porch gutter/gap R. Keep any exterior work visually in the style of the period (mid-late 20s) S. More storage for my car stuff (temp controlled) T. More storage for tools & yard furniture U. Keep Gas for Dryer & Stove V. Retain as much original HWF as possible on 2nd floor W. Re-add HWF on first floor (prefer old growth) X. Replace existing Oil Boiler with less noisy Gas Boiler Y. Get rid of remaining cat smell Z. Rewire house and bring 220v into house AA. Add insulation BB. New Hot Water Heating system CC. Replace rusted waster/water/boiler pipes DD. Ensure plumbing lines are run to avoid freezing EE. Replace missing joists under bathtub FF. Remove excess vent piping in kitchen GG. Keep wall between Kitch/LR/DR HH. Have fully functioning kitchen again II. Double door opening from LR to DR JJ. Better air flow on first floor LL. Replace or shore up side entry MM. Less highway noise NN. Keep and strip all original woodwork PP. Shady space for hammock (stand or tree) QQ. Easy access to water outside RR. Block access to path from driveway SS. Remove Dead Tree in front yard High Priority A. Significantly reduce road noise in Master Bedroom B. Up to code deck E. Use deck as outdoor living space (big enough for dinner for 8-10, hammock) G. Place to store my wine glasses, linen and platter collection (DR hutch) H. Re-add Chair rail or wainscoting in DR I. Get rid of calcimine paint in DR J. Fix dark plaster spot (and source) in DR ceiling K. Somewhere to store garbage/recycling bins L. Keep wood gutters M. Ensure drains run far enough away from house N. Repaint trim O. Covered Parking for 2 cars P. First floor coat closet Q. Period appropriate lighting (no cans) R. Install crown molding S. No skylights T. Replace stopgap PEX and old plumbing with copper U. Keep existing radiators V. Plug any cracks/holes in foundation X. Take advantage of the park view Y. Better counterspace in the kitchen (currently 5 windows/doors in kitchen that impact counterspace) Z. Vintage wood cabinets AA. O'Keefe and Merritt 40" vintage stove BB. Farmhouse sink CC. Vintage kitchen hardware DD. Extend kitchen cabinets to ceiling EE. oven that fits 1/2 sheet pans FF. Good ventilation in kitchen GG. Permanently cap kitchen vent in chimney (if chimney not removed) II. Good use of corner kitchen cabinet space JJ. Place for recycling container KK. Gorgeous Vent Hood MM. More light in Kitchen OO. Install HWF in kitchen PP. More light in LR QQ. Add Fireplace RR. Place for couch in morning sun SS. Add Chimney Cap (if chimney not removed) TT. Shore up mortar and gap between chimney & roof (if chimney not removed) VV. In side entry, add heat and/or address plethora of cold air seepage WW. Reduce water runoff from street into sidewalk/yard XX. More electric outlets outside YY. Stereo speakers outside ZZ. Make backyard more level and fill in old fish pond AAA.Dog enclosure (physical or electronic) CCC.Install wider and level walking path between front walk, side door and basement entry DDD.Try to retain stone walls wherever possible Medium (not all, but the key ones) A. 3rd bedroom B. Add formal entryway C. Replace all MDF trim This post was edited by navi_jen on Tue, Aug 5, 14 at 10:41...See MoreKitchen plan - please give your feedback!
Comments (8)How many people will cook in this kitchen? I personally really like corner cooktops, but, if installed as you show it, they don't have much "butt-room." If more than one person will cook, you really need about 5" lateral room on either side of the cooktop. This winds up eating up a lot of room -- something like 53" along the walls. (Even a 30" cooktop set the way you have it eats up a lot -- something like 46" minimum.) On your plan, is there any reason the fridge cannot slide away from the sink to create some more counterspace? Your plan does not leave much room between the range and sink. If it were mine, I'd move the fridge and then scootch the sink away from the cooktop....See MoreAllieBr8
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