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Building a shower- How to Help

13 years ago

I have read everything from this site Kerdi Shower Part Deux(great info) and was wondering if there is a book that I can order for hubby to build our shower.He does not do the comp much and is more hands on.It is going to be 48X48 neoangle.My hubby says we should order the glass doors(Wilson Glass) first and build the shower to those measurements and I don't think so .Please Help

Bill & Mongo -Can you suggest a book ? Thanks

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Comments (6)

terezosa / terriks
13 years ago
Yes, You can head over to the John Bridge Tile Forums. You can buy John's book, Tile Your World and his Kerdi e-book there. There are also lots of tile pros that can help you build your shower. I built my own Kerdi shower about 5 years ago with their help.
bill_vincent
13 years ago
If you're going to do a Kerdi shower, he might want to check out the video on Schluter's Kerdi page, as well (linked below).

As for the glass, that should go on AFTER (and on top of) the tile.

Here is a link that might be useful: Schluter Kerdi
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You don't use Schluter DITRA in a shower. No method is foolproof if not executed properly. Do go to the john bridge forum. You'll see that Kerdi doesn't use a pre-slope, and there are no weep holes in the Kerdi drain. A solid surface pan is nothing more than a shallow bathtub. There are no weep holes, as there is no flexible liner to clamp in the drain. There is, however, a proper way to waterproof it. You're getting confused between the different methods of constructing a shower. Choose the method you would like to use, and learn about that one.
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While Swanstone complies with the performance requirement of having permeability rating of "less than one", it's not technically a complete steam shower system. As far as I can tell, they offer no trim options for closing the ceiling to complete the steam envelope. You could overcome this by installing a sheet membrane from the Schluter Systems company called KERDI to the ceiling and use their 10" KERDI-band product to wrap down the walls far enough to allow for a double-bead of KERDI-fix urethane sealant to seal the back of the Swanstone walls to the KERDI-band. With that done, you could then install tile to the ceiling and caulk the perimeter where the walls and ceiling intersect. Remember also that you'll need to make allowances for the steam generator penetration and for the other valve and head penetrations. Best of luck, Shaughnn
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@GreenDesigns Thanks! Hadn't even considered that issue. That could be a game changer. @hosenemesis thanks for all of that info. That is exactly the kind of stuff I don't know that I need to figure out. The messy background is that the shower abuts the kitchen and our project really started as a kitchen reno, but since we hate the size of the current shower, we tried to incorporate a bigger one into the plan...but taking the width from the kitchen didn't make sense, so we wound up with a space that is about 28 x 40. It's not ideal, and wasn't my first choice, but the other options we were given included leaving the shower as it is, or eliminating it in the reno. We actually use the shower, despite its size, so eliminating it wasn't a good option for us. So, here we are, with a really wacky amount of space for the shower and no idea what we should do next. I guess if it is not going to be to code, I can just forget about it. So, that will be step one. Thanks again.
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Nope. Not that simple. Do you have 4' between the entry point (high point) and wall (low point) where a trench drain will go so you can get the 2'' fall needed? And that's measured and constructed with a preslope of deck mud over the dropped concrete slab. How experienced are you with rough plumbing? Can you get the 1/4" per foot fall from the relocated drain to the main? Concrete is porous and will need to be waterproofed. And you'll need to do a capillary break or else create a complete wetroom.
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sheys-garden
Original Author
13 years ago
Thank you both for your help.After looking at both techniques I think he has decided not do the Kerdi(yikes),but a simpler mortar "mud" pan then tile work.Hopefully that is not going to be a mistake.
terezosa / terriks
13 years ago
In my opinion, Kerdi is the easiest way for a DIYer to build a waterproof shower. I don't know why a mud pan with liner would be easier than Kerdi.
terezosa / terriks
13 years ago
After I posted I thought that I should further elaborate on why I think Kerdi is easier. If you do a traditional shower you need to put in two mud beds - first a preslope under the liner, then another mud bed on top. You need to be careful not to plug the weep holes in the drain, you need to carefully fold the corners and extend the liner over the curb, and you cannot put any holes in the liner. You also need to waterproof the walls in some fashion - either a surface applied waterproofing or something behind the cement board. The Kerdi system eliminates the pre-slope, there are no weep holes to protect, and the Kerdi provides all the waterproofing, with no mud bed under the tile that gets saturated with each shower. The waterproofing layer is right under the tile and thinset, making a Kerdi shower a shower that will dry quicker, keeping the chance of mold down.
bill_vincent
13 years ago
He's going to go the EASIER way of a conventional pan??? Whatever he's drinkin, ya wanna share??? :-)

Seriously-- that's the beauty of the Kerdi system. It's so much easier than a conventional shower that it's nearly goof proof. You can even take it a step further, and instead of using the Kerdi membrane and worrying about seams, you can use Schluter's Kerdi drain with Laticrete's Hydroban roll on waterproofing, and Laticrete will still stand behind it, and you then have a completely seamless membrane.

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